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Trailer Improvements 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm
Posts: 15161
Location: Home sweet home!
This past weekend I had a wee mishap with the trailer and damaged it. I also had peace of mind issues with it loaded on the way up to our section. I want to record the things that need doing on it to make it safer and more usable in one place and chart progress, hence yet another pit lane thread.

Prioritised:

Immediate:

  • Jockey wheel mechanism: Fix damage to hinge/lock

Before next serious use:

  • Chain connection point: Replace 3mm plate with 6mm plate
  • Hitch mechanism: Replace s/s fasteners with grade 10 cap screws and nylock
  • Safety pin setup: New better pin with spring loading

General:

  • Jockey wheel mechanism: Lighten over-built bracketry
  • Spare tyre: Remove from draw bar and fit beneath rear of deck (balance improvement)
  • Front/rear gates: Rebuild with stronger construction for heavy timber loads
  • Front/rear gates: Add more hinge points for increased strength/load capability
  • Guards: Triangulate towards extremes with foot holds for climing up safely
  • Deck: Reinforce centre 50x25 U beam that is under spec
  • Deck: Replace working surface with new material, possibly hardwood or some laminate
  • Sides: Add tie rail and running rail for carrying heavy wide things (eg my truck deck)

Possibly create removable cage sides to drop onto it, consider this if/when doing sides and gates.

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Mon Dec 11, 2017 3:48 am
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Pics from the other day when the f-up happened:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 8326312960
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 0700644352
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 9902691328
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7221221377

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Got the jockey wheel fixed and the cement splashes washed off last night:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4212337664
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 0984662016
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5604310016
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4865129472
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4475047937
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 0914489344
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 1620977665
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5346428929

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Hopefully I can get the fasteners replaced early January ready for some real work :-)

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Mon Dec 11, 2017 9:17 pm
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Cage design of a rental trailer at a random gas station that I happened to be stopped in for a few minutes: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 9411177472

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Will do something like that to my trailer sometime soon as it's going to get some work this coming summer for sure.

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Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:02 am
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I think the uprights are about 40mm OD with caps already on there from when I renovated it 15 odd years ago. So I think the best approach would be this:

25x25x3mm box or even better 25x25x3mm or 25x50x3mm channel on top of the uprights so the ply can be fixed to it, which will also give a little more height to the base capacity without cage.

Then the tie rail can be welded on the outside of the uprights 15-50mm down from the top and there'll be sufficient gap to pass ropes/straps/hooks through it.

Triangular pieces from the guard to the corners can still be installed to keep the turning clearance good (unlike the pictured rental).

Rear lights can possibly get some mods/clearance/lightening/etc by removing the central part which will also give more access clearance to the new spare location in the event of it being needed.

Will be a lot better balanced then. Will try to measure this evening and edit.

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Sat Jun 30, 2018 5:41 am
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Close, 37mm uprights. Still ample for the above plan. https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4391977984

Deck size is 1360x2400, minus the side board thickness, approximately 36mm combined, leaving 1324mm usable width.

Last time I split the deck half way front to back and wasted two pieces of ply from the two part sheets I needed to use.

This time I might use this tongue and groove H3.2 treated flooring ply, which will give me the deck with a T&G reinforced seam, both sides, and either the front of the back, with a small piece needed to do the other end, and one offcut left over to make a dolly out of. Link: http://pprpenrose.co.nz/plywood/ply-floor-h3.2-tg or similar.

Or if I can get a sheet of 1500 wide ply, I might use that and a normal sheet for sides and front/back as I think the sides are under 300 high, or not far off.

I like the idea of the T&G seam running length ways, especially if epoxied into effectively a single piece, as if you have sand or dirt or whatever you tend to be sweeping/hosing it down and off the end of the trailer, so the seam running across the middle is sub optimal, especially as it lets water soak down onto the steel beam.

That's a job for a dry weekend once the cash flow recovers from the crappy old job.

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DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:46 am
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