Peugeot 2.0 Turbo on CardS12

[Matthijs]

AWG chart:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge

30awg is 0.0509mm2 or 0.255mm diameter

The cheap part could be true very well So now I'm looking into some heat resistant stuff like kynar
Don't know where or how to look for wires that are very suitable for this kind of DIY setups

[Fred]

Used wire out of late model cars can be good.

That sounds WAY too small, though. My first EFI install had some really nice light high quality microphone cable for some of the signals. It lasted less than one block lap... :-p

[Matthijs]

Fusing current according to the wiki is 10A over 10s or 15a over 1 sec. Injector draw <1 A,Ignition is only switched (OEM ignition module is outside of the casing). Should do ok ?
I have the 24awg/0.511mm dia/0.205mm2 which is ~OEM loom size. These a just a tad to large for vero print hole size

I can do some testing with it.. if it is to small I only use it as sensor/signal wire or for veroboard connections

[Fred]

It's not about the fusing capacity, it's not even really about voltage drops and resistance increases, it's mostly about vibration resistance. Though resistance and v drop are big factors too for grounds, powers, and high current outputs (your injectors, not your coil signals). Thin wires fatigue and break much faster.

[Matthijs]

Ah ok. I'm thinking about glueing the wires at strategic points to reduce the vibrating (or less mass vibrating). Will that help?

[Fred]

Might do. It's up to you. Just don't come crying to me saying "firmware sucks" when your broken wiring is at fault :-) Datalog will sell you out anyway ;-)

[DonTZ125]

When it comes to automotive wire, go big or go home. I make little adaptor leads for FZR bikes, and while the current involved could allow 24ga, I use 16ga because 1) the item is being installed by someone else, 2) it's in a position where vibration during running or even getting yanked on during service is a real issue, and 3) the price difference is trivial.

[Fred]

Listen to this man ^, he knows.

[Matthijs]

Yesterday I modified the sequential injection to semi-sequential by pairing 1-4 (to PT4) and 2-3( to PT6) injectors.
Tacho output wire connected to PA3
This is about all I need... factory loom provides Knock sensor and Boost controller wiring but I just want the engine starting and idling for now to claim the 25th place and to be sure everything actually works.

[Fred]

Do you know what type of output the tacho signal should be, yet?

5V square?
12V square?
12V + spikes?

Knock and boost control can wait. You'll want to set a PWM value for your idle output, too.

Fred.