KennyBug's Jaguar board build

[DeuceEFI]

It looks like the MAP sensor is mounted upside down
You should be able to read the Freescale model number...

[Fred]

Good spotting! How did I miss that... :-/ I hope you've not powered it up yet! At least it's through hole, should be easy enough to flip and fix.

[Kennybug]

good catch! thanks you!
I have not power it up yet & the power jumper is not on yet.
Will take time to flip and fix it on monday. No rush.

[DeuceEFI]

The three pins that are the power, ground and signal are pins 1, 2, 3 (not in that order) but pins 4, 5, 6 are not connected internally so no damage would have occurred from it being installed that way.

Another thing to note, remember to not torque down the screws/nuts too tightly, it will cause damage to the sensor element... I used nylon screws with nylon lock nuts on my build.

[Fred]

Even if it doesn't damage the element, it will distort the readings. Good call, Andy! :-)

[Kennybug]

Thanks Andy. I am buying the nylon screw & nuts at the moment.
I will not over fasten those screws. They will be replaced later on.

Today, I have the MPX4100 flipped and fixed.
soldered jumper wires between p20 & p21.

tested power 5v outputs.
checked FDTI chip talked with Debian & Mac.

I am now in a dilemma of PNP hack or Opto couplers.
But i rather wait for Andy's test result 1st.

No rush, as i did nothing on my engine.
Its now time for me to go shopping some nice coil packs, trigger wheels, VR & O2 sensor.

[Fred]

PNP hack can be temporary, do it for now, I will provide a better SM to burn that will eliminate the need in the next N weeks. Opto is only required for inverter use in the car. If your laptop has a good battery, you're better off without the inverter anyway. They're noisy things.

WBO2, consider this eval kit, make sure you ask for the latest firmware with unsigned integer values in it: http://14point7.com/SLC-OEM.php

24-1 is a good choice for trigger wheel if you want a simple crank mounted setup on FreeEMS with current code and a decent redline.

Fred.

[Kennybug]

Thanks fred, I will take time to do the PNP tonight & tomorrow.

I think i will stick w/ narrow band O2 at this point.

I am thinking about to get a Nippondenso CAM sensor wheel. it is 24 teeth and low cost.
BTW, what will be the max rpm for 24-1 wheel with current code?

I have identified my 1st FreeEMS engine already.
It would be my friend's racing Austin mini with SU carburetors.
Phase 1 will be running ignition only, since the car just enrolled a SU carby class race on September.
(Still not quite sure we can compete with those Mallory & MSD ignition equiped minis)
Phase 2 will be full FreeEMS control after the September race. Thus enroll to the top Weber & EFI class by then.

My friend and I will put up a new build thread in User Ride section.

I have all s19 SM, listener, benachtest & firmware ready to go. Can't wait to get it done soon.

[Fred]

I think i will stick w/ narrow band O2 at this point.

I'd consider that a bad choice. It's doable. The first FreeEMS car was tuned this way, by feel. But it's a lot of extra work, and no certainty about what is really going on in your engine. Reading plugs is only a partial answer as the plug colour is indicative of multiple rpm/load sites, not just one.

I am thinking about to get a Nippondenso CAM sensor wheel. it is 24 teeth and low cost.

Not a bad choice. Why not run it natively, then? 24+1 = good support to arbitrarily high RPMs. If you run this in your existing dizzy location you could do sequential fueling on a four cyl with wasted spark. Or COP with semi sequential.

BTW, what will be the max rpm for 24-1 wheel with current code?

More than 7000 at a guess. I could check for you if you really want to know. It's only a temporary limitation anyway, so it's not a big deal; you're testers, not users, after all.

I have identified my 1st FreeEMS engine already.
It would be my friend's racing Austin mini with SU carburetors. :P
Phase 1 will be running ignition only, since the car just enrolled a SU carby class race on September.
(Still not quite sure we can compete with those Mallory & MSD ignition equiped minis)
Phase 2 will be full FreeEMS control after the September race. Thus enroll to the top Weber & EFI class by then.

The ignition is no problem, but I'm sad to say that the injection side is a much bigger job than you might expect. I'm not planning to work on support for siamese injection on minis until much later. It simply has to take a back seat to the more core issues present. Even though the A series is a very primitive boat-anchor spec engine, it requires very sophisticated control strategies to do a good job. Just so that you know.

I don't *think* that the VW siamese setup requires this due to the firing order. I could be wrong, though, and if I am, same applies.

Sorry to break the news re injection on the A series! :-(

Fred.

[Kennybug]

Fred, thanks again. I am a happy tester that always think positive.

Not any bad news for me. Ignition only will be good enough at this point.
The good news is : I stopped my friend to buy a crappy MegaJolt EDIS4 setup on this mini !!!!

After read some more material for saimese injection. I realized it will be a difficult task.
You r correct that VW firing order will not need siamese setup.

Another good news is " after the ignition test on mini, I will focus on the lovely VWs <3.

cheers,