Fred wrote:check d33 d34 c30, why not used? same on aap c19 d31 d32
MAP and AAP -- protection circuits arent nessasry on components internally connected with the board.
Fred wrote:both map and aap can be substituted for off board map units from toyota, honda, gm, etc
If you are using off board sensors then it is suggested to install protection circuits consisting of D31, D32, C19 (AAP) and D33, D34, C30 (MAP)
This should somehow be part of the BOM. MAP always has parts xyz and for off board use use abc and for on board use use jkl. Ditto for AAP, although AAP should be optional for everyone anyway, many/most won't install it, at least at first.
Map is tabbed AAP is not tabbed. AAP can be selected with or without barb both non tabbed.
Fred wrote:aap should have barb for routing to correct pressure zone on car.
As above optional we can make this standard if everyone agrees.
A barbed one can be A not connected and B cut off, but a non barbed one is stuck with variable readings when your passenger winds their window up or down at high speed. It should definitely be barbed for the default part number. If silly people want to do other things, they can do it at their own risk. We shouldn't encourage it. Looking at the part numbers and the ranges, 105kpa isn't really a good idea. The 115kpa variants are much better. The code doesnt care, and the chances of it mattering are slim to none, but it is a fact that atomospheric pressure reads higher than 105 regularly in some places and it is a fact that it can sometimes get up as high as 106.5 or possibly even more. If that happened, the future AAP code would be unable to react. As such, the only good option is to order a tabbed barbed unit and either bottom side mount it or cut the tabs off with a knife or saw. This is the better option for a non barbed one, despite the fact that you probably shouldn't use a non barbed one: 1457150 This barbed one is out of stock: 1457152 And this one has tabs that could be cut off: 1457151, it is what I'd recommend, for element14 buyers wanting a good AAP solution. People in other parts of the world could order sensors with a barb. Also, you can get them with the barb on the end and not the side elsewhere, too.
Fred wrote:no mounting for either map or aap.
MPX4250A (MAP) only comes in a tabbed package - if mounting is difficult remove tabs.
I was just pointing it out, it'll be hanging off its leads and could fatigue, hence off board could be a better option.
Fred wrote:on rpm page, r212-r216 might take 1/4w but will really get that hot and should probably be taken off board into loom as trying to stand bigger packages on end on the smd pads just rips the pads off.
R212 and R216 are 0805 surface mount and 1/4 watt so should fit the current puma pad. Alternatively use fred's approach and mount in loom.
Fair enough. As jared pointed out, you'd have to sustain high RPM for a long time to cook them. No burnouts for you, Presto! :-)
Fred wrote:all caps that aren't tantalum should be X7R in final, not critical for spin 1, though.
Caps, up to you :) I have selected what will fit best with current foot prints.
Well, many values are shared in multiple places. If the final order can be simplified by having more of one type, that is a good thing. The ADC caps should be good quality ones to maintain their filter response at diff temps and be right in the first place. Most caps have a horrendous tolerance that really isn't acceptable. It's acceptable for decoupling, but not for filtering or clocks etc.
Fred wrote:fuel pump page, r66, what is that for? mine isn't populated, but it could be a good thing to have. R68/C37 should not be populated. No mods are required for d46 and r67, cept maybe the value of r67 and the part number of the d67 led. Drive fet is not included in this page and should be.
R66 = pull down, Q8 added (note in schemaitics this under general drive and not fuel) D46 and R67 up to you wont make a difference, I moved them as I felt that the fuel pump wires may obscure view of the led.
OK, R66 is a good idea, but it's on the wrong side of the 1k, really. As for your idea to hack the led and resistor over to the GP drive, no, don't do that! The correct one is perfectly visible and you only have one wire and it goes from underneath with the led on top. Even if you wire it from the top like a monkey might, you would be able to see the led shining past it without issue.
Fred wrote:CHT stands for Cooland/Head Temperature
Cooland/Head Temperature not sure what this is? But I can change it to "Coolant/Head temperature"
Yep, add the slash in there too. What it is is an engine temperature indicator for warm up and overheat and fans and so on. Water cooled engines use cooland and air cooled engines use head temp directly. What we really care about is manifold wall temp, cylinder temp, piston temp, chamber temp, but we can't know those accurately.
Fred wrote:afaik, no zeners should be installed on the board.
Zeners replaced with Schottky's
Hmmm, if a zener was suitable, then the only replacement suitable is nothing. Let me check your spreadsheet. OK, remove teh schottkys from the ignition page, i can't see them being out of place anywhere else. The ones in the ignition page are duplicates anyway, the red ones with 'not populated' are correct.
Same goes for the resistors in the ignition page, they should be jumpers, not open circuits. Or they should be 1k and the ones that are 1k should be jumpers, same circuit at the end.
Also on the ignition page, you spec 2k resistors for the LEDs, 2.4k is a better choice and will allow part sharing with the other 2.4k parts, also in MF 1% :-)
Fred wrote:all resistors should be 1% MF as they are cheap and easy to get and just better in every way
Maybe for a final version :) but I see it making a masive difference, except for where it counts.
Same applies as for caps, merging orders can be a good thing both for cost and simplicity of assembly and so on. Anything for clocks and bias and filters must be this, stuff for current limit can be crappier, but why?
Fred wrote:TPS value changes not colourised.
Sure.
I meant R173 being 470 ohm.
Fred wrote:Injector page, didn't check your part numbers, but assume they are good from previous discussion.
Anyone else want to double check?
1017798 is OK, but has no protection.
1775617 is no good. This requires a FET driver. It's also too low voltage.
Remove from BOM ASAP.
1739424 is GREAT but very expensive.
1739425 is GREAT but even more expensive.
Fred wrote:Ignition should consist of cpu > 1k > xor > 1k > fet (with 100ohm pull up) (with LED setup on either output of XOR or output of FET, whatever pcb allows for)
This setup has been alowed for.
Good, generally I don't like it, but it seems like the best option for a spin 1 puma to follow.
AAP Stands for Atmospheric Absolute Pressure, not Altitude :-)
Good work presto! Will hit submit on this and have another review, possibly catching up on power and usb and cpu and clock, better, etc.
Fred.