Fred's FreeEMS Powered 89 Ford Courier w/ Holset fed FE-DOHC

[tpsretard]

down to 1.8?? and lower compression, why would you do something like that.
and how did you get it down. (different crank??)

I hate a low cr engine. i looking for 10:1 with my road going subaru
and making it 2.35L

[Fred]

tpsretard, you may not be aware, but I've been living in my car and eating insufficient food for 5 months, cost matters. The 1.8 bottom end was free, and, more importantly, is short stroked to reduce bearing and rod stress at high revs. The 1.8 bottom end is naturally low compression, which is also convenient as prior I had to blend toluene with pump gas, and now I can run 98ron/93aki straight. Old compression was 10:1 and new is 8.8:1, boost remains 17.5psi.

[tpsretard]

Did not know money was as tight as it was, sorry dude, i have been there and it is NOT FUN!!

So you are running some form of BP05 bottom end then?
Used to run my gtr up to 30psi with a stock block would go like stink

After i hurt the engine after running 30psi for about 11months i forged it and ran 9.8:1 cr with 95ron,
granted the ignition advance was not where it would of been optimal but i never had a problem where i had to blend the fuel.

did you ever think of water injection, i never needed it but i did put it on a few customer's cars, amazing results can be had.

also did you ever look at things like quench or cam timing, these can seriously affect the engines tendency to pink..

dude, hope you get out of your money problems soon..
Jason

[Fred]

It's more of a life choice than a money problem. I'm on a mission to make FreeEMS succeed, and I'll do what it takes. With or without the support of various people.

As for BP, no, I just uploaded a facebook album called "BPT Thrasher" this is an F8, 77mm stroke, 86mm bore, way better engine than the BP. Way bigger rods too. Better rod ratio, just better period.

I fully understand the benefits of water injection, but like NOS it runs out, so I'm not a fan.

Cam timing wasn't previously adjustable, stock quench was good and probably doing wonders.

It should be fine, relax, I have it under control :-)

Fred.

[tpsretard]

Dude going to give you a word of advice.

NEVER EVER, use locktight on engine bolts. use a lock washer.
If you must for what ever reason use something else. use black, or better yet, gray silicone.

Does not crack when it gets older and if you need to remove the bolt you can, best of all will not let the bolt vibrate loose..

[Fred]

There are multiple grades of locktight, not just the permanent stuff...

I use nordlock washers where they are appropriate.

[tpsretard]

nordlocks are good, still back off the bolt with one of the car i work on (Step 2 WRC ford Escort)
have to wire tie everything i can.

But even the weaker loctite (242) i have had hell with HOURS spent on a mill and $100's in helicoils later i shoot people for using loctite in front me.

[Fred]

I'd rather throw away a crank shaft than have a flywheel cut off my foot.

[tpsretard]

i have seen that happen my self, was not a good day, they actually canceled the reset of the racing for the day, it shared the bolt heads off, it was a 260bhp big port 4age, amazing engine.. made by Mr Hassle Green. He was warned by locals not to tamper with the engine.

My BPD was board to 85.5 with a stock Stroke of 85, ran custom pistons and rods..
was able to get a rod ratio of 1.66:1

[Fred]

This has about 2:1 :-)