J-series Acura/Honda

[Fred]

Mate, I'd kill for a cheap toyota or mazda to put a setup on... unfortunately parking costs an arm and two legs or a long walk each time you need the car, and I have no cash to buy a car, and all of my other cars are in NZ. I still own some of them. One I gave to Preston to continue work on, the hotel. Another got stolen from me through legal means about 4 years ago. The ute blew up, but if I were there I'd fix it. My wife's aunt just gave her a car, but it's diesel. Though I'm thinking of doing some work on that and the drive by wire is FUCKING ANNOYING :-) Hopefully I can test on some other vehicles in the area soon, but no guantees. I wish I had something :-(

[Fred]

http://www.coches.net/mitsubishi-galant ... -covo.aspx

Someone buy me this and an inverter for the laptop(s) and I'll park it 10 mins walk away and code in it!

Fred.

[Peter]

Someone buy me this and an inverter

I could probably afford to donate 3 or 4 hundred dollars to the cause.

I'm thinking of doing some work on that and the drive by wire

Ya they have drive by wire setups for the J-series, and I avoided them like the plague after reading about it, even though I kinda want(ed) the 3.7L.
The heartbeat sensor works. It would be pretty cool if it would flash(beat) faster the harder and longer the engine gets run.
CuteCom log included! I don't know if it's a bad thing, but the log was done on the latest source from the dev branch.

[Fred]

To be fair, the drive by wire mostly stays out of the way, unless you do something like spin the tyres or try to load the engine against the brakes in gear, in the latter case it cuts all power instantly and your passengers go flying forward...

That log is excellent, thank you. I think I know what's causing the numbers to look the way they do, however there's not a lot we can do about that. When you have a wave form that is consistent, the zero crossing happens in a certain place, always. However when you have a missing tooth or teeth, the wave form varies on the first (and possibly subsequent) teeth due to the change in magnetic flux during the gap. Honda most likely didn't intend for this wheel to be used for RPM sensing, only for sync, which is fine. If you run it fuel only right now, as is, the place the values get pulled from in the map will vary from cycle to cycle and it will run unevenly (even dangerously) at higher RPMs. The proper fix is to use the crank wheel and use this only as a sync, however an approach that will get you a perfectly usable and consistent setup is for me to implement the configurable RPM sampling code. Another way to do this is to hard code it into the code (for both ADC sample and RPM). I can send or attach or push to a temp branch a patched file to do that for you to try, if you want. That'll get you running in the least possible time so you can proceed with steps 2 and 3 :-) Let me know what you want to do.

Re dev branch, no, perfect, it had a serious fix, something you needed, and a bunch of stuff that didn't affect you at all.

Fred.

[Peter]

To be fair, the drive by wire mostly stays out of the way, unless you do something like spin the tyres or try to load the engine against the brakes in gear, in the latter case it cuts all power instantly and your passengers go flying forward...

I was trying to avoid the cost and hassle of converting my car's entire wiring harness, ecu, and throttle petal over to it.

Let me know what you want to do.

I guess I could try and hard code it for the time being. What are you looking for in the binary log that makes it acceptable? Do you still want to chat at some point today?

[Fred]

Hold off a bit, I've got the test setup working today and am doing some testing. I'd like to verify my theory and prove that there isn't a bug in that code. 60-2 doesn't sync on the bench, I'm going to keep working on that for a while, then I'll try yours.

I was looking at RPM and timeTolerance (or something like that) you can clearly see a pattern, either generated by the pattern itself, or by a bug.

Yep, if you have a skype or google talk account, that would be good, someone stole my VOIP account for a few days of server up/down grade. PM me your preferred medium details.

Fred.

[Fred]

OK, 60-2 is fixed, though horribly low performance. Time to test yours and make sure the logs are clean with it.

[Fred]

No idea what's going on here! Purple haze should be confined to Hendrix, not visible in OLV. The pretty turquoise curve should be a straight line and zero. The blue triangle is a good shape but should be 5x higher. This is all very confusing, and tonight's priority. I don't understand how I got this result and you got a solid RPM signal on your engine. I guess I'll find out soon, though!



At least the red line is legit and doing what it should! :-)

Fred.

[Peter]

2002 Honda Accord J30A1 B7XA wiring harness
Some wire color documentation.
Injector 12V YELLOW/BLACK
Cylinder 1 Injector BROWN
Cylinder 2 Injector RED
Cylinder 3 Injector BLUE
Cylinder 4 Injector YELLOW
Cylinder 5 Injector BLACK/RED
Cylinder 6 Injector WHITE/BLUE
Primary Oxygen Sensor WHITE
CrankShaft VR Sensor BLUE wire and a WHITE wire
Cam Sensor 1(back) GREEN and RED wires
Cam Sensor 2(forward) YELLOW and BLACK wires
MAP Sensor RED/GREEN
MAP 5V YELLOW/RED
MAP Ground GREEN/WHITE
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor RED/WHITE
Intake Air Temperature Sensor RED/YELLOW
Throttle Position Sensor RED/BLACK
TPS 5V YELLOW/BLUE
TPS, ECT, & IAT Ground GREEN/BLACK

I'm probably going to try and edit this to include which plug on the ecu each of the wires are in. Printed on the PCB on the inside of the ecu's box they assign the plugs as A, B, C, and D. A is towards the back of the car with D in the front.

EDIT: Fred's corrections in the next post.
EDIT2 for Fred: Good suggestions... I feel there is a better word for it, maybe "corrections for my dumbass" I really need to start thinking more before I push submit.

[Fred]

Suggestions:

1. Injector 1-6, is that firing order or cylinder order? Perhaps make it clear.
2. Cam 1/2, which is front, which is back? Ditto.
3. Injector grounds should likely read "injector power" as the ground is usually through the ECU. If that's not true on the honda, your circuit likely won't work.
4. The OEM connector will probably have tiny and difficult to read pin numbering on it, perhaps consider using that as well as or instead of your scheme?

Good idea, though, good self-docs are key for later mods/diagnostics :-)

Fred.