Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

KP from ute: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4352811008
View from KP: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5850572800 (and lit)

This is a bump for updated post above, too, which now has tweet links.

I guess I'll wait until the new box is bolted to a blacktop and the blacktop is sitting on mounts and clearing the firewall before I move the handbrake back. Seems like it'll work very nicely, though, with minor handbrake shifting, or none, perhaps (though I do want to).
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Just for comparison, this is a 2 door bug eye KP60 with SR20DET swap, and looks to be ex-auto, too.

Image




Kinda hard to judge, but if it was a stock manual KP like mine, it would come up out of the floor at the front of that auto hole, and then angle back about 45 degrees.

No sure about handbrake location on the earlier car, but likely to be similar/the same.

So my setup would pop out another ~~50mm further back than that?

Another 2c for the pile of coins.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

And here's a photo of my KP that I'd rather not have a copy of! :-D

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2799855619

Image



Nice photo, anyway! :-) And the photographer didn't charge me too much for the privilege, either.

Fred.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

At All: I just noticed that this thread was locked! Then I looked and in 5 pages no one said anything. Unusual, usually Jeff pipes up :-D Unlocked now, don't remember locking it, and didn't realise it was locked. Feel free to comment/suggest/criticise/joke/etc.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Fred wrote:Start a comments thread if you wish, this one's going to be a build thread.
Ahh, that explains it. Does it need to be, though? No. I've changed my mind. :-p post away.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

A GREAT shot from Lake Pukaki in the south island when I was picking it up with Rob/Corbon :-)

Image





And a bit later in the same trip, Marlborough sounds:

Image
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Radiator overall diameter must not exceed 730mm frame rail to frame rail. Width could be as much as 800 if the height is kept under 340.

Radiator overall height must not exceed about 400mm tank bottom to tank top, not including neck. IE, height could be a bit more depending on how it was mounted.

FD3S aftermarket with core size 313 x 618 x 40mm would likely work with new fittings welded on as appropriate. Might be a bit excessive for a lowly corolla engine, though :-) Factory for the engine seems to be 630 x 350 x 16 so something around 20 to 30mm thick would be a winner, I think, given the intended usage.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

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Last post in this section today, I promise! :-p

Yesterday I was looking at the poor KP stuck in the garage unloved for weeks on end yearning after a drive of it and a thought struck me: Fire it up in there and give it a bit of a rev.

So last night I charged it up fully, and today I did. It took quite a bit of cranking to start, probably a lack of fuel and a shitty diaphragm pump requiring cranking to move it into the carb fro the tank. Even with the "start ya bastard" it didn't want to go, so I pulled the air filter and sprayed it directly down the throat and eventually it fired up. Ran fine, warmed up quickly with zero coolant and idled happily with no choke. Gave it a bit of a rev up and so forth. Probably could do with fresh plugs, could also do with FreeEMS back on it, and a vacuum source, and a fixed alternator, and a new water pump, and a new radiator, etc. But... for now, none of the above.

Smoked/fumed out the garage, so I had to leave it open all day to clear :-D

If/when I get those minor niggles sorted, I'll clear a path and take it for a quick burn around the block, or something.

Before I take it for a WOF I want to get it up in the air and tidy up some minor stuff that's a bit ugly and otherwise solid.

Stuff that I can do that only requires my time and effort:

1) Alternator out and diagnosed/fixed (fixing will cost something, but not much)
2a) Hard core acid style flush like last time on the 740, but with baked baking soda, not fresh :-D Worked so well, the 740 is in top shape now.
2b) Water pump off, new one on, and fill with proper coolant!
3) Pulley and sensor situation resolved, new longer bolt with locktight installed. Old ground down bolt into hall of fame.
4) New passenger wing mirror installed and adjusted.
5) Minor rust repairs around boot seal area and corner of roof where dodgy job was done before. (would require some zinc primer, but that's just 15 bucks)
6) Vacuum source created on carby manifold with either big hole and screw in fitting plus thread sealant or small hole and epoxied in fitting
7) FreeEMS back in, get a proper ignition tune on it, rev limiter videos on youtube
8) Tidy up various rough bits so it's WOFable and WOF it (25 bucks plus any other incidentals)

Can't think of much else right now.

One crazy thing did just cross my mind, though...

What about a rough-as-guts super back yard J160 on the 4k swap? Figure out exactly where it needs to go for the blacktop, setup a rear crossmember/mount situation to suit that, then make an adaptor plate and get a clutch disk to suit, and bob's your uncle, epic six speed 4k fun with indestructable gearbox :-D Would need another KP drive shaft to convert so I could keep the existing setup to put back in for a WOF. But... Hmmmm.

Back to reality.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Gave it another run today, still sluggish to start, but it always was; EFI will fix that. Poor neglected car.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Came across this thread the other night in which the guy says the tunnel is miles from big enough for the J160: "I had a jam at fitting up the gearbox, the plate works perfectly but the tunnel is way too small" http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70 ... ge__st__30 I look forward to his updates when he starts slicing and dicing.

In other news, cleared out the front of the garage, finally getting through the last pile of caravan/940 parts. Thus the Starlet is liberated and free to drive on out anytime.

It's still got a bunch of gear inside it, though, so I won't be able to do anything too crazy, however that's a solid idea anyway as it's WOFless right now.

What I will do, though, is:
  1. Drive it out into the open
  2. Refill it with straight water
  3. Bring it up to temperature, perhaps with a drive
  4. Dump the water, flushing as much as I can through with the hose
  5. Fill with concentrated oxalic acid - no fear of water pump issues, it's coming out anyway. The rest could do with a derust :-p
  6. Take it for a drive to get full cooling system coverage at a nice high temperature
  7. Come home and dump the acid out
  8. Flush with fresh water a few times until satisfied
  9. Fill with strongish solution of sodium carbonate (not bicarbonate like last time's minor fail/explosion)
  10. Take it for another drive to ensure that circulates through the entire system too
  11. Bring it home and dump out the carbonate solution
  12. Flush with water until satisfied
  13. Blow cooling system parts/engine dry with compressed air
  14. Back into the garage she goes
  15. Pull the water pump off the engine and alternator off the engine
  16. Get the alternator fixed up and in good shape - as quickly as possible, reinstall as is if no luck
  17. Pull the trigger wheel off the engine (blocks access to large bolt)
  18. Pull the pulley off the engine (blocks access to small loose bolt)
  19. Pull the loose bolt out, measure the hole depth, find a suitable replacement, clean the hole, torque up the new bolt with locktite
  20. Reverse of the above, but with new water pump and refill with nice green coolant for the first time in years, LOL.
  21. Oil change, fill it with cheap 15w40 and maybe a new filter if it's lucky :-p
That's basically a whole day, but with an intermission to sort out the alternator. But it'd be good to have the engine in mechanically sound condition, then it's just minor body work stuff to get it on the road legally again. Maybe not even that, it's not bad at all, really. I just like to make things nice BEFORE I go and see Mr WOF.

Fred.
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