Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

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And tonight (actually tonight), I arranged to buy a dodgy blacktop 4age engine. The crank nose has been hammered/ground and is quite messed up, but overall, there are plenty of good parts to make it worthwhile, so it should be a not-bad move, at worst. We'll see how that unfolds as time goes on and things get inspected in more detail. Pic of dodgy nose: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 6141627394
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

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Tonight, went downstairs to take a photo of my new headlights for this thing, and ended up fitting one up just to make sure that it fitted. Worked out well, pics:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 1789272064
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4609092610

Looking forward to installing ONE of them and comparing the light from each side :-) Just like I did with the 740/940 brake swap :-D
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Water pump arrived! https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 8283465728

Background orange stuff is what fell out of the engine after last drive. I left a fair bit of that in someone's back yard in Christchurch, too.

And I'll be paying a few grams weight penalty for the better headlights:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2001080321
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 9700064256

But it'll be worth it.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

And tonight I measured the Mitsi brake calipers that I scored for ultra cheap a while back.

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5953029121
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5948028928

I put a couple of squares across the curved outer parts such that they intersected with each other and the distance from the outer curve to the intersection point was 168mm. Thus the minimum inner diameter under which they can fit with the correct sized rotor is 336mm, or 13.228 inches.

The thickness of that outer piece is about 25mm, and a further 4mm to the edge of the pad, which we'll split in 2 for clearance, and call 27mm, implying a correct rotor diameter of 282mm. Obviously it'd be OK to go a bit bigger or a bit smaller than these figures, and my measurements could be a little out anyway, but looking at the wheels I have on hand: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7748806656

This implies optimally using a 15 inch wheel on the car, but possibly using a 14" wheel on the car. Many claim 14 is the better looking choice. I've not really decided yet, we'll see what happens.

I'd probably be happy with a 22x260 rotor, or similar to that, which could bring the wheel inner diameter requirement down to 314mm or 12.362 inches. There was a kit on trademe around that size IIRC. It's not on there now, but they relist periodically so I will edit here when I next see it. You could almost get 260mm rotors with these calipers under the 13" wheels, however it drives like shit on the 13" wheels, really. Needs more width and less sidewall to perform adequately for the current performance level, let alone with the blacktop.

Anyway, I guess the order of events is this:

1) Figure out the optimal wheel choice
2) Measure the wheel
3) Calculate the rotor size
4) Find suitable rotors (probably from some Honda)
5) Machine existing hubs to accept a rotor over the top
6) Make adaptor bracket to hold these or other calipers to suit

Fred.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Today I scored this: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 8431034369 and https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5983727616

And then I measured it (because I'm too broken to do much else) and found that:

~580mm from centre of existing shifter hole in KP to face of bell housing/block of 4age.
~820mm from bell face of J160 to centre of shifter in stock SXE10 Altezza location
~55mm difference for alternate location option built into gearbox = ~765mm
~200mm the maximum further back the KP shifter could be before the handbrake is an issue = ~780mm

IE, if I cut a new hole (or put the hole in the new tunnel in the right place) and move the shifter forward on the box, it should be perfect.

Perfect because the KP shifter is way too far forward in its standard position, to an annoying extent for a tall guy like me. IE, I'd prefer it 150-200mm further back anyway.

Precision of all of these measurements is questionable, so the proof will be in the pudding, but it certainly looks pretty good.

Fred.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

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More easy light work: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 0524394497

Will take a grinder and/or blowtorch to that mess soonish.
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Took a chisel, screwdriver, and blow torch to the mess the other night, and ended up with the following messes:

Dust in the window sill: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 9071872000
Pile of bog removed: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 0236308480
What I found underneath: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2782800897
How the gap was filled: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 0288226304

And today:

More original condition cam cover: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5158300672
Mocked up in the mighty KP: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2936796161
Interesting header design: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4563540993

Instead of an unmanufacturable fine angle merge, they used a coarse merge, and directed the gasses with a perforated plate so as to prevent reversion without impacting flow from the runner. Clever hack :-)
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

A bit of work done toward a final engine package solution. Cleaned up the OEM blacktop factory lightened flywheel:

Blacktop flywheel back: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 1098669056
Blacktop flywheel front: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 0096801792
Blacktop flywheel recess: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 9847339008

I don't know about you, but I'd not be brave enough to mill out from under those tabs like that! Nice, though. Really shows on the car, too. Way different feeling engine to the earlier silver top engine.

And found out why the engine I picked up today leaked oil badly: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 3160314880 Oring was ROCK hard and had one crack in it, broke again during removal.

Cunning way to remove an entire engine from your Volvo wagon alone with a damaged pectoral muscle without hurting yourself: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2387613696

And a cunning way of lowering it to the ground: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 3438481409 ...with some Volvo 240 15" wheels I picked up the other day. :-)
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

Door trims and a mirror for the left side are soon to be pending collection!
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Re: Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2!

Post by Fred »

A little bit of research done on the old KP tonight! https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 6093346817

"KP60 Starlet 13x5 ET27 vs 15x6 ET50 vs space available front and rear. Need 20mm spacers to use DC2 Type R wheels."

Image





Measured up wheel/strut/guard clearances, vs size and offset of existing wheels, vs those of the Honda ones I'm looking at (below) and came up with needing a 20mm spacer to have them sit correctly on the car without scrubbing inside or out. I'll measure a bit more accurately once they're in hand...

Image

Image




I've seen them on a KP before, and these are the stolen pics of that vehicle:

Image

Image

Image




Source: http://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/29 ... gze-turbo/
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