2003 Toxic Tacoma

[Fred]

First one looks horrible IMO. I'd want to see a hand formed taper up to 2.5"

Second one looks ok, but is made to fit within the constraints of the stock evolution exhaust and ECU. It also assumes using the internal gate. If you do want to use the internal gate, then the same but longer reentry and no 02 up there.

Here's mine for reference:

[ToxicGumbo]

Some spacing specs:

The radiator is 2 inches (5 cm) deep from the front sheet metal, the fan shroud an additional 3 inches (8 cm). There's roughly a 0.5 inch (1.5 cm) gap from the edge of the shroud to the first pulley, but that's an open shroud without crowding near the pulleys. The fan, central, attaches about an other 0.5 inches (1.5 cm) in. Plenty of room for an electric fan and radiator movement.

However, I might just be able to fit the intercooler up front without any obvious butchery. The winch will be the big determiner.

Between the grill and sheet metal window for the radiator, there's about a three inch gap. The intercooler itself is 3 inches (75 mm) and the plastic grill mounting brackets which lead into that open area can be cut. Width of the intercooler is 25 inches (64 cm) and the grill doesn't make major shape changes until at either end of 28 inches (71 cm). The 12 inch (30 cm) height of the intercooler might fit within the 15 inch (38 cm) open height area. I'm sure that the winch will sit up into that area some, however, that's likely mostly due to the controller box which I now realize can be located elsewhere, such as below the winch mounting plate (shelf) on the bumper and behind the skid plate. Tthe handle and tension ratchet might still be a problem.

I've noticed that most mounting brackets on the intercooler are sheared off: three tabs on the bottom, one on the side. Only a top mount and side mount remain. Sucks. Nevertheless, I can create a box frame with solid rubber grips to hold the intercooler in place. Something like that can even be bolt-together and mount to the sheet metal--un screw top, remove, slide out intercooler. There are still some other concerns, like the hood latch and sheet metal support to withstand hood drops, but it might not be so bad. I'll make a "cardboard winch" and test things out during a slow moment this weekend, maybe relocate the horns and offroad light wiring.

I took a lot of photos with a tape measure, but this one pretty much renders the above:



Edit: Oy..at second glance, in front of the radiator's a thin A/C cooler which has metal tube lines running along the edges of that open space in the front. Not so ideal after all. Just going to have to test fit things and make it work somehow.

Also, the fan face sits 1.75 inches (4.5 cm) behind the radiator.

-Jeff

[Fred]

However, I might just be able to fit the intercooler up front without any obvious butchery. The winch will be the big determiner.

Good news.

I've noticed that most mounting brackets on the intercooler are sheared off: three tabs on the bottom, one on the side. Only a top mount and side mount remain. Sucks.

BadAttitudeGumbo, instead think this: "having no OEM tabs provides me with the freedom to put tabs where I need/want them, and the opportunity to practice my TIG welding in the process".

Nevertheless, I can create a box frame with solid rubber grips to hold the intercooler in place.

I don't understand this, but it sounds like a bad idea.

Edit: Oy..at second glance, in front of the radiator's a thin A/C cooler which has metal tube lines running along the edges of that open space in the front. Not so ideal after all.

Should be equally relocatable aft with the radiator, no?

Just going to have to test fit things and make it work somehow.

That's the spirit!

[ToxicGumbo]

BadAttitudeGumbo, instead think this: "having no OEM tabs provides me with the freedom to put tabs where I need/want them, and the opportunity to practice my TIG welding in the process".

Didn't mean to come off that way. Even if the OEM mounts were in place, I probably wouldn't be able to use them, but it's a shame they're not there just in case they could work. Being able to TIG a few on is ideal either way--I just hate the idea of not having the resources easily available and having to pay someone else to do it.

Should be equally relocatable aft with the radiator, no?

Possibly not without cracking open and rerunning aluminum AC tubing. It's not just that though, some of the components are strategically placed in that location with unforgiving tube lengths. Still, none of this really matters for now and can eventually be overcome.

Yesterday, I removed the truck's two stock O2 sensors, capped the rear one, and put the Spartan wideband in the front. Things aren't patched up ideally for a rainy day, but I'm comfortable with the cable run and temporary patches. The ECU's been replaced with the Jaguar and fires up just as effortlessly as before.

I'm having two problems:

• I must have done something wrong with the low side driver arrangement for delivering 12V to the Spartan and gauge. For now, this has been jumped to an ignition-on source.
• My laptops aren't ideal for working with EMStudio/EMSTune and for tuning outdoors. The lower-end laptop is an EeePC known to throw errors in EMSTune and the high grade one has no battery. So I'm having some difficulty even stepping outside to tune.

Tonight I hope to figure out what's going on with the low-side driver arrangement without causing any trouble to the Spartan. The recommended code change was simple and has been compiled in and I believe the wiring was done correctly, so no idea at the moment what it could be.

Really itching to tune with the wideband. There's a park across the street that's perfect for revving and having a decent laptop or more forgiving build of EMSTune would be great. Will likely have a better laptop tonight and will try a recent DEV EMStune with that, though I expect the relay issue to take priority.


-Jeff

[Fred]

Just checked your change, should be fine! :-)

Things that can screw up your low side driving:

• Correct CPU pin not hooked to same FET as output wire (or not at all)
• FET ground source not connected to ground (but your fp relay works ok, right?)
• FET output wire not connected to relay coil
• Other end of relay coil not connected to 12V
• Feed to relay contacts not connected to 12V

Hope that helps.

Fred.

[ToxicGumbo]

Just checked your change, should be fine!

• Correct CPU pin not hooked to same FET as output wire (or not at all)

^ This.

• FET ground source not connected to ground (but your fp relay works ok, right?)

^ This.

• FET output wire not connected to relay coil

^ This.

Hope that helps.

It did. Thanks.

Though I now have some recollection of DeuceEFI mentioning CPU taps, I never put two and two together about whether ACC and FAN are actually connected to anything despite the circuits being built up per the manual. They're not. On that note, if I were Slim Shady/Eminem, then Fred would be the Dr. Dre behind my game: He walked me through the MCU pinout, the Jaguar assembly, and his firmware to trigger the correct pin with the correct wiring to trigger the relay and turn on the wideband gauge and controller. I must be getting the hang of this troubleshooting though because despite how much I overlooked along the way (thinking I hadn't), I already had all the docs, datasheets, and code open to refer to. At least I'm starting to hit the target, if not the bullseye itself. DeuceEFI's design is also making a lot more sense and I feel more confident about what to pay attention and also what I can make basic modifications to should any be needed.

This puts me in a good position for tuning. So good that I bolted my glovebox back in, there-by securing the Jaguar away while leaving a USB cable and SPST switch resting inside for firmware updates and modifications. Eventually this will all come apart again for idle control and to hook in the relay control for an electric fan. Nothing pressing though.

Hoping to start tuning with the wideband tomorrow so long as the readings are solid.


-Jeff

[Fred]

[Fred]

I picked up my TD05HR 16G last night! Some info about it:

1. The man said all of them have failed wastegate actuators
2. Will cut mine open to see why rust is falling out of it
3. Could mod another one easily to work on your setup, pics of mine will help
4. If you go external for bling you'll need two! Very bling, or one with cunning in it.
5. 2 studs, 3 bolts for dump housing, can supply pic
6. 2 studs, 2 bolts for inlet flange, ditto
7. The stock compressor outlet pipe sucks and is restrictive, no loss
8. Do you have water and oil lines on yours? Or do you need to make them up?

Will post a pic of it next to my holset later :-)

Fred.

[ToxicGumbo]

I picked up my TD05HR 16G last night! Some info about it:

• The man said all of them have failed wastegate actuators
• The stock compressor outlet pipe sucks and is restrictive, no loss

• If you go external for bling you'll need two! Very bling, or one with cunning in it.
• 2 studs, 3 bolts for dump housing, can supply pic
• 2 studs, 2 bolts for inlet flange, ditto

Thanks!

• Do you have water and oil lines on yours? Or do you need to make them up?

No lines were included and the ports are gaping wide open.


-Jeff

[Fred]

I have lines on mine, but they're standard stuff you could do at home with a piece of steel tube and some banjo fittings. Stock drain is easily replaced, too.