I draw my wiring work on KiCAD
Crimping tool
LC1
OEM O2 VS LSU4 O2
LSU4 O2 is geometry compatible with OEM O2
Study the OEM harness carefully
Draw my layout on paper to clear my idea
This layout is bad, I can't let LC1's ground and O2 signal ground converged too earlier at this point
Crimp a node for fuse soecket
When possible, soldering is always better than crimping
Use heat shrink tube to protect soldering point
The wire from OEM O2 interface was not made of copper, so choose crimping
Ready to install
They must be ground at the same point as ECU were
Have to uninstall relay and fuse box
This is the ground I need
Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, but I have got no suittable lugs to crimp the three gnd wire together
move it
No problem, it's time to calibrate the LC1 and LSU4 O2 sensor
After all is done, push wire into corrugated tube
Idle is smooth and stable, check engine lamp won't light. The LC1 controller is smart enough to heat the sensor. I evaluate the resistance of OEM heater, It is only 5 omg, that's said the alternator must provide 2A+ current during the driving. And insufficient current can cause injectors squirt less than ECU expected, and a knock will be a result. The most significant effect was improving power/torque curve, the power output was more smooth than before and there's no free gaps on gas pedal
AFR at idle, I think it is a little rich. Using a notebook in order to monitor the AFR is awkward. So I decide to buy a bluetooth adapter to replace the RS232 cable and use my android pad to watch the AFR in real time
