Look at my weired OEM gnd layout
Posted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 3:59 pm
I spend the whole day with my friend to study the real harness of my car. We remove the OEM ECU and explore the connector pins against engine block using a multimeter. Then I draw this diagram.
Another strange things can happen when I connect a bunch of large capacitors between + and -of battery, when deaccelerate, the car can go more distance than with out it, when change to high gear, the RPM takes more time to drop to specific range. That's means large capacitor can interfere the MAP sensor? How could that happend?
Also my car has a huge fuel consumption when drive in the city and thick gas smell when open engine oil filler cap but the engine doesn't burn oil. The OEM ECU injects more fuel than engine can digest. This is my primary objective to run my own EMS, hope FreeEMS can answer all my questions
I think the center of the gnd start is not the engine block but left side of body frame, there is quit a distance between F and ABC. About D and E, I think it is the return path of oil pressure switch and a CHT sensor(not the one for ECU). I think it is very wrong, but it works most of the time. I start to suspect that the car was so sensitive to the whether condition had something to do with noisy sensor? Another strange things can happen when I connect a bunch of large capacitors between + and -of battery, when deaccelerate, the car can go more distance than with out it, when change to high gear, the RPM takes more time to drop to specific range. That's means large capacitor can interfere the MAP sensor? How could that happend?
Also my car has a huge fuel consumption when drive in the city and thick gas smell when open engine oil filler cap but the engine doesn't burn oil. The OEM ECU injects more fuel than engine can digest. This is my primary objective to run my own EMS, hope FreeEMS can answer all my questions