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Jaguar 0.6-alpha Assembly Guide 
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LQFP112 - Up with the play

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2013 6:07 am
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Fred posted a request for me so i think it rates its own discussion. Here is his summary build order as cross-posted on 0.6 build progress post:

viewtopic.php?f=67&t=2206&start=50

Argh, hard to cut and paste on a tablet!


Thu Nov 14, 2013 11:15 pm
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Here you go:

Fred wrote:
This does need to exist, but roughly, here goes:

  1. Install clamp parts, test clamp with 1ohm or so resistor to 12 or so volts, ensure rail stays at 5.15 NOTE: If this test fails, and you have installed other parts, they will be damaged and will need to be replaced!
  2. Ensure your FET driver ICs suit your application (IE, save the trouble of removing/replacing wrong parts)
  3. install other SMD parts (best done first ahead of all TH parts)
  4. Install clock components and CPU decouple capacitors (required for BDM loading)
  5. Use BDM to load seank-hack SM from thread attachment here: viewtopic.php?p=28948#p28948
  6. Install FT232RL related parts, at the very least, L1 (smd so should already be done by now)
  7. Verify comms with CPU through USB port by loading BenchTest firmware from build server: http://builds.freeems.org/firmware/dev/images/
  8. Install everything else choosing these things first: viewtopic.php?f=67&t=2334
  9. Install power supply bits including bending legs of to220 regulators like this picture or remote mounting them slightly: http://i.imgur.com/xo7jjSZ.jpg
  10. Install in a case
  11. Plug in or wire in to a vehicle/engine
  12. Party

WARNING: I may have forgotten stuff, Andy can verify this is OK or not.

Fred.

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Thu Nov 14, 2013 11:17 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Jaguar 0.6-alpha Assembly Guide

The Jaguar board for FreeEMS has many build options depending on the requirements of your engine, see this thread for the available build options: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=2334

Click on the photos to see them full sized...

1. Build the over-voltage clamp circuit, install U13, Q12, R106-R109 and F1. These are all SMD components.

2. Test the over-voltage clamp circuit by connecting a 9v to 14.4v DC power source (ie: 9v battery or 12v automobile battery) positive lead to the TPS-5v output pad and the negative lead from the power source to the GND2 pad. You should measure NO LESS than 5.10v DC and NO MORE than 5.20v DC at the non-grounded pad of C53. If you see LESS than 5.10v DC or MORE than 5.20v DC, STOP and correct the over-voltage clamp circuit, ie: make sure you have the correct value resistors in R106-R109. This circuit needs to be correct before you continue.
Image

3. Build the Analog-5v power supply circuit, install U2, D43, D44, C12, C14, C16, C18 and MOV1. The heat sink side of U2 should face the edge of the board and the body of U2 should face the capacitors. Make sure to "kink" the legs of the voltage regulator (U2) to prevent stress to the solder connection:
Image

4. Install a temporary heat sink (ie: a scrap of aluminum alloy) to U2, then connect a 9v to 14.4v DC power source positive lead to the 12v-SW input (near U2) and connect the negative lead from the power source to the GND2 pad. You should measure ~5.00v +/-0.05v at the TPS-5v pad. If you see MORE than 5.05v, STOP and make sure that U2 is oriented correctly. This circuit needs to be correct before you continue.
I used a 25.4mm x 25.4mm folded heat sink as shown in this photo:
Image

5. Build the CPU-5v power supply circuit, install U3, C13, C15, C17, C19 and D2. The heat sink side of U3 should face the edge of the board and the body of U3 should face the capacitors. Make sure to "kink" the legs of the voltage regulator (U3) to prevent stress to the solder connection:
Image

6. Install a temporary heat sink (ie: a scrap of aluminum alloy) to U3, then connect a 9v to 14.4v DC power source positive lead to the 12v-SW input (near U3) and connect the negative lead from the power source to the GND2 pad. You should measure ~5.00v +/-0.05v at the BDM +5v pad. If you see MORE than 5.05v, STOP and make sure that U3 is oriented correctly. This circuit needs to be correct before you continue.
I used a 25.4mm x 25.4mm folded heat sink as shown in this photo:
Image

7. Install the remainder of the SMD components: U1, U4, U7, U8, U9, U12, F1, F2, J1, Q1-8 (depending on if you need all 8 injector drivers) Q9, Q10 and Q11. These are all on the same side of the PCB. Once you get those installed, turn the PCB over and install U11 (on-board AAP sensor if you want to use it) and U6 (on-board MAP sensor if you want to use it). See this thread for build options: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=67&t=2334

8. Install the CPU required components to be able to use the BDM connector to load the Serial Monitor program: C1-C11, C44, C47, C48, R1-R8, R78, Y1, D1 and the LOAD header. DO NOT INSTALL the BDM header, the drilled holes are sized so that the BDM connector will stay in place while you program the serial monitor program.
Image

9. You are now able to load the Serial Monitor program with a BDM, such as a USBDM: http://www.coolefi.com/usbdm.php.
Download the seank-hack SM from thread attachment here:http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?p=28948#p28948

10. Install the remainder of the USB components: C39-C41, D33, D34, R57 and R58.

11. Connect a 9v to 14.4v DC power source positive lead to the 12v-SW input (near U2) and connect the negative lead from the power source to the GND2 pad. Then connect your USB cable to J1 on the Jaguar board and to your computer, you should notice that D33 will flash while the board is receiving data from your PC and D34 will flash while it is transmitting data to your PC.

12. Now you should be able to load the freeems-vanilla BENCHTEST firmware: install the LOAD jumper and cycle power to the board. This places the Serial Monitor into the firmware loading mode and you can now start your loading program such as FreeEMS-Loader http://mikesshop.net/EMStudio/#freeemsloader or Megatunix Loader https://github.com/djandruczyk/MegaTunix to load the BENCHTEST firmware.
Download the BENCHTEST firmware from build server: http://builds.freeems.org/firmware/dev/images/
Once the loading program has completed, remove the LOAD jumper and cycle power to the board. The CEL LED, D1, should now flash at 0.5 Hz to show that the firmware is running.

13. Verify that EMStudio (available here: http://mikesshop.net/EMStudio/#emstudio) or Megatunix (Available here: https://github.com/djandruczyk/MegaTunix) can communicate with the firmware. Note: you will need to use Megatunix at this point in time to use the BENCHTEST features.

NOTE: You can leave your temporary heat sinks on U2 and U3 until you finish construction of all the circuits and verify that they are working correctly. Be careful handling your Jaguar board with the temporary heat sinks attached to the regulators as there is HIGH chance of component leg damage if you are not careful.

11/15/2013 EDIT: Added URLs for SM and BENCHTEST downloads.
11/15/2013 EDIT2: Changed load SM with BDM before installing the USB components, added URLs for loader and tuner downloads.

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Andy.
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FreeEMS vehicle #16, 1996 Chevrolet S10 2.2L SFI I4 with DIS ignition
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Last edited by DeuceEFI on Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:20 am, edited 2 times in total.



Fri Nov 15, 2013 2:45 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Place holder for next steps...

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Andy.
FreeEMS vehicle #11, 1932 Ford 5 Window Coupe with a 1996 GM 3.1L SFI V6 with DIS ignition
FreeEMS vehicle #16, 1996 Chevrolet S10 2.2L SFI I4 with DIS ignition
http://www.coolefi.com


Fri Nov 15, 2013 2:46 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:57 am
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Place holder for more steps...

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Andy.
FreeEMS vehicle #11, 1932 Ford 5 Window Coupe with a 1996 GM 3.1L SFI V6 with DIS ignition
FreeEMS vehicle #16, 1996 Chevrolet S10 2.2L SFI I4 with DIS ignition
http://www.coolefi.com


Fri Nov 15, 2013 2:46 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2010 3:57 am
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Place holder for additional steps...

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Andy.
FreeEMS vehicle #11, 1932 Ford 5 Window Coupe with a 1996 GM 3.1L SFI V6 with DIS ignition
FreeEMS vehicle #16, 1996 Chevrolet S10 2.2L SFI I4 with DIS ignition
http://www.coolefi.com


Fri Nov 15, 2013 2:46 pm
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QFP80 - Contributor

Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 12:49 am
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Excellent! Thanks Andy

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Fri Nov 15, 2013 4:32 pm
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Firstly, I magically modified this thread:

1) Merged first two posts
2) Changed title to match Andy's heading
3) Claimed ownership of the second post and pasted a quote from the other thread in for reference

Great work, Andy! <3 Some comments:

EDIT: All of these things have been updated above, this list retained for historic purposes only.

1) It's EQUALLY important that the clamp is not lower than 5.10 Volts too. If the clamp is lower the regulator and clamp could fight and create a melt down. Please add this check to step 1
2) If the clamp is as low as 5.10 Volts, the regulator voltage, once installed must have some clearance from that, ie, 5.1 reg voltage is OK if clamp is 5.15 but if clamp is 5.1 then regulator must be 5.05, you've got this covered naturally, so maybe it doesn't need a mention in your instructions, but it'd make a nice "note" in a future version. Keep extra details like this out of the main steps but include them for extra reading if desired/reqiured.
3) It's pretty important that both 5V rails match or that ?? exceeds ?? by a fraction. It could be worth swapping regs from rail to rail to remedy this ordering.
4) 9 and 10 are reverse ordered, please swap. No need for comms stuff for BDM loading.
5) 11 unnecessarily complicates things, if a loader works, then we know it's good. If a loader does NOT work, then this is valuable diagnosis, but problems during assembly are kinda outside the scope of assembly. If followed correctly and soldered properly everything will work. I'd move 11 to a separate notes section to keep the step by step guide uncluttered.
6) 7 could do with a link to the choices thread IMO, and in fact you could link to that at the top as prerequisite reading, and it'd be helpful. I'd add both.
7) Note about heatsinks is good, but with temporary heatsinks there is HIGH chance of component damage if lots of care is not taken. Perhaps warn about this. I drilled and used a bar across mine recently, this gives more stiffness and reduces damage potential, but is outside the realm of many diyers who only have individual little sinks laying around.
8) Link to mike's CI for loader download in (currently) 12, please :-)

OK, I'm done picking. Some of those are pretty important, others just my feelings on it. Lemme know when you've updated it and I'll re-review. :-)

Thanks! :-)

Fred.

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DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Fri Nov 15, 2013 6:40 pm
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LQFP112 - Up with the play

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Step 2. should probably mention placing a resistor between the voltage source and the pcb (like in the picture) :)


Sat Nov 16, 2013 2:49 am
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The picture could likely do with updating. The clamp is capable of absorbing all possible load when shorting to 12v through the polyfuse 5V output. That's part of the test. Let's see what Andy has to say about this :-)

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DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sat Nov 16, 2013 3:01 am
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