Basic Jaguar questions

[volvoguy]

I want to get this engine running with a Jaguar but I want to make sure I mostly know what I'm getting myself into first. I have my head wrapped around everything very broadly, but my lack of electronic competence will occasionally dazzle you. It's a four cylinder turbocharged Volvo engine that I'd like to get on sequential timing and fuel. I mated an old Volvo distributor to a Mazda optical CAS. I was hoping the snot rocket thread wouldn't end so soon as I'd be able to copy a bunch from Jaguar on that engine. Do I need to build a separate inversion circuit to decode the Mazda CAS or is that all achieved with software?

When you say all the configuration has to be done with code do you mean things like using components such as the standard Volvo coolant temp sensor? If so, taking that example, would I just use something like freetherm, write something in C, compile, burn to the chip with the BDM? If not, and I get the Jaguar kit with the SMD already soldered will I need a BDM at all?

I'm right in thinking that with the Jaguar I wouldn't need the jbperf peak and hold injector driver board aren't I?

Once I've completed the standard soldering and the optical resistors, I'll be towards the edge of my comfort zone, or at least what I understand so far of what the build requires. I read the build guide and I'm sure if I saw the software and hardware you were all talking about I would have a decent idea of what was going on. But I'm still a little concerned that I might not be able to do enough myself. I stopped reading a couple of times to learn how to implement pull up resistors and voltage dividers, if I communicate in circuit diagrams do you think this could work? I am pretty pumped about this

[ivan141]

Count me interested in this as well.. Am in the finishing stages of rebuilding a B21ET (with a B200E head and intake manifold because the 'ET was a K-jetronic engine).

Any pics of the CAS setup? I do believe I have a spare one, and the 44-2-2 flywheel pattern of the B200E is useless on it's own.

[Fred]

volvo guy! Hello again :-) Sorry for the delay!

Firstly Ivan: http://yoshifab.com/store/index.php?_a= ... oductId=45

Secondly volvoguy:

No input or output inversion is done in software for some very very good reasons. But that's OK. If all hw has inverted inputs and all software expects that and all engine hardware never changes, then it will ALWAYS work. Such is life with the Mazda/Mitsi 4/2 and 4/1 CAS patterns. Tested and ready to roll. If you follow the linked configuration for Hall/Opto inputs, it should "just work" assuming you have good wiring.

Configuration such as injector flow and cylinder size is done in code. const var omgwtf = 42; // for example. Except not hard coded. Config CAN be changed in a GUI but not in a human readable way. Only in HEX for now. Check out these files (which I and others can assist in changing) to understand further: https://github.com/fredcooke/freeems-va ... itialisers

P&H injectors will require either Jean's board or similar, or resistors to lower the current. For my hotel setup I'm using resistors that I've hand tuned for optimal operation. I would recommend getting modern high-z injectors, though, they're better in every way. If you MUST use low-z and you don't want resistors, then Jean's board could be used with Jaguar just fine.

You can definitely do it yourself, don't worry. If you take your time and do a good job flowing each joint without cooking any parts, it should work nicely.

Ivan again: The 44-2-2 pattern is the one that is effectively a per-cylinder 22-2, right? If so, I'd be interested in testing the Missing tooth stuff at cylinder level with batch injection and dizzy ignition. Let me know if you'd like to be the nutter to do that testing :-)

Hope this helps :-)

[ivan141]

I believe the 44-2-2 is basically a 22-2-22-2 pattern (same as having a 22-2 camwheel I suppose).
My brain hurts from staring at monitors too much this month, so have a little trouble visualising how
this would look per cylinder. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the adition of something like a 'half-moon'
wheel driven from the distributor would be enough to determine the correct cylinder position right?

Anyhoo, the flywheel is a Renix flywheel, as used on the original 2.0 redblock of my dutch built volvo 360.
I am not above a little testing, but it will be some time before I'm ready. Still need to build an exhaust
and wire the thing up (I think I'll first get it to turn over on the NA ecu to see if the engine will run).
If I can get it to run on M$, I'd like to give FreeEMS a go.
Budget and dodgy ebay sellers remain the biggest holdups.

[Fred]

Actually, I could test it myself on the hotel with a simple wiring change and a dodgy home made trigger wheel. 40-1-1 or 40-2-2 or 24-1-1 or something are easy to do.

You will be able to run on M$ and on FreeEMS, and if that's your end goal, just do it? :-)

Fred.

[volvoguy]

You can definitely do it yourself, don't worry.

OK the config files look pretty sensical and if you're still confident after I tried to make myself sound incompetent then I'm in, just have to wait for Andy to get back to me.

I was planning to use the stock '97 Volvo injectors + resistors until I turned up the boost enough to run out of fuel. Modern injectors and hand-matched resistors makes that plan seem so amateurish that I'll probably, if these calculators are accurate, get something around 500cc to begin with (target 250whp). Probs from the US due to choice and price, will confer before purchase.

Any pics of the CAS setup?

Yes, I'll grab the garage camera next time I see it and post the pics.

Edit: Oh yeah I need to choose coils too and the choice is poor in the UK, if someone has a suggestion for coil on plugs, or just coils, from the USA that behave well with FreeEMS it would be appreciated.

[volvoguy]

Any pics of the CAS setup?

Loads, I put them in another thread here. I spent too long on the internet and not long enough in the garage, I have a 4and2 hall, not a 4and1 optical.

Bosch 0221504464 and 12131712219 COPS according to random blogs have no igniter, charge to 6A in 2.1ms, and have 12v listed in the pin-out. Should I keep looking for a coil with a known dwell time?

Does anyone know when the next lot of Jaguar boards might be out?

[molak]

I believe the 44-2-2 is basically a 22-2-22-2 pattern (same as having a 22-2 camwheel I suppose).
My brain hurts from staring at monitors too much this month, so have a little trouble visualising how
this would look per cylinder. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the adition of something like a 'half-moon'
wheel driven from the distributor would be enough to determine the correct cylinder position right?

Anyhoo, the flywheel is a Renix flywheel, as used on the original 2.0 redblock of my dutch built volvo 360.
I am not above a little testing, but it will be some time before I'm ready. Still need to build an exhaust
and wire the thing up (I think I'll first get it to turn over on the NA ecu to see if the engine will run).
If I can get it to run on M$, I'd like to give FreeEMS a go.
Budget and dodgy ebay sellers remain the biggest holdups.

A 44-2-2 on the cam is the as having a 22-2 on the crank

The "cam equivalent" of a 44-2-2 in the crank is a 88-2-2-2-2

[Fred]

volvoguy, not really necessary. You can guess dwell and get OK performance. You can also guage correct by "does the heatsink of the ignitor get hot". Finally, you could invest in a pocket scope or real scope and actually measure reality of any coil you choose to use.

Jaguar has been getting some work recently, I believe it just needs review now, but there might be some small things still to go, as well.

And yes, re 882222 etc. :-)

Fred.