masterkorp wrote:How is Cam Angle Sensor support?
I know this is an ongoing development, I'd like to know what is necessary for me to do? Do I need any extra circuit logic? I know that
Robs Skyline is a work in progressat the moment.
As the others said, hall/opto sensor config as per the detailed instructions in the schematic, and let us know when you are ready for some code.
masterkorp wrote:
Does the Boost/Idle/TCC need any work in order to work with RB AAC valve?
I like to have a clean idle, this important for the slow crawling areas.
Nothing special to do except hook them to an appropriate FET, and jumper the input of the FET to an appropriate pin for the purpose. PWM is a good GP output pin set, use the odd values first IIRC as they are the 16 bit ones (4 max, or 8 8 bit or some combo).
masterkorp wrote:
Can I raise the idle on demand?Can I raise the idle on demand?[/b]
Since this engine was from an auto car (correct me if i am wrong) , the throttle body, has the throttle position sensor, Wide Open Throttle Switch, but also a close throttle switch (or Idle SW as the service manual refers it too). I would like to use the Idle SW to open the FCID valve (Idle raise for the AC), and raise the Idle "automagically" to a set RPM when I want. I could just relay the just connect the Idle SW to the FCID Valve and just relay it trough a switch, but I am not sure how this can affect the overall ECU behaviour.
Corbon wrote:If you switch on the FICD to raise the idle the ECU won't be bothered as long it is performing open loop idle control. If it is operating in a closed loop mode which I'm not sure is an option currently then it would try and use the AAC to lower the RPM back to its original set point and could end up fighting the FICD unless the idle speed set point is raised also.
DeuceEFI wrote:You would need to work with the firmware developer(s) to add support for this feature.
Think about this later. However if you're using SD algorithm, you can bleed extra air in any time and it'll just up the RPM. Many ways to do this, with PWM idle valve, with manual tap, and other methods. You'll probably find the stock PWM idle valve under the back of the inlet manifold to be sufficient for your needs. A simple on/off solenoid controlled by a switch on the dash would suffice for an idle up control.
@Rob, they can't fight each other, PWM would just close and control loop would max out, and it'd exceed target by whatever.
masterkorp wrote:
Can BRV just be connected to the same source has the power supply source?
I have a key switched relay that powers the ECU do I need to run any additional power to the ecu?
The Jaguar has 3 12V inputs. CPU, BRV, IGN/HSD/LEDs. The first one draws a little current, but not much, the second one draws near no current, and requires a clean signal, the third one draws either a little current, or a lot of current, and has noisy switching stuff on it. You can get away with joining them all together. You probably should get away with joining CPU and BRV together, and running a separate wire to the battery (via a relay) for the IGN/HSD/LEDs feed. If the relay was attached directly to the battery terminal, runnign three wires to the relay would be fine. If the relay was attached to the ECU, then it's not fine. And some continuum in between. The thickness of the wire from the relay to the battery affects the possible strategies, too.
Corbon wrote:The BRV input shouldn't share its connection to the battery with any high current or noisy devices.
Right, and the LEDs and ignition drivers and HSD can be counted as noisy, even if not very noisy in two cases.
DeuceEFI wrote:Technically you could, but best practice is to connect the BRV input to the battery through either a switch or relay. You want to measure the actual battery voltage which the injectors will use so that the firmware can model their behavior correctly.
Needs to be a relay to minimise runs. Switch would be ignition which is shared with noisy stuff. Probably a good time to validate that he has connected this relay to a quality source, not a random source like key or dash supply etc.
Corbon wrote:I still have stock ones too. They're meant to be 370cc. Hoping to characterise the deadtimes with a scope and current sensor on the car when I get to tuning. Will share the info when I have it.
That probably won't give you the result you want, sadly. Worth experimenting with. I have a device that can be used to generate a curve shape, and the height of the curve can be generated with lambda shifts and a wideband at low flows.
Corbon wrote:I shorted R91, R92 and R100 with copper leads and added 6 external (external to the Jaguar board) resistors, one for each coil. This probably is not required though.
It is required, really. These are current devices, so you'd be bound to get an imbalance (possibly large) without these resistors doing their own thing.
The Jaguar doesn't have anything to condition the knock sensor signals and I'm not sure if knock detection/logging is in the software yet.
No, no knock anything, yet. It's quite easy, and not useful on a high power setup, and only useful on a low power setup with inconsistent fuel and no margin for error.
DeuceEFI wrote:except for the one High Side Driver (which can be setup to supply either 5v or 12v).
I thought that was linked to the whole LED and ignition setup? So if you had 12V ignition, you can't have 5V HSD? Am I wrong. CBF checking right now. Also LEDs will glow dim with 5v. :-)
This would depend on your coil setup ("dumb" coils or "smart" logic level coils). IGN1 and IGN2 outputs from the Jaguar can be used with "smart" logic level coils.
Hmmmm, I don't like hearing logic level coils be called smart. There are quite a few types of ignitors/coils out there. Some are actually smart, others are just convenient.
- just coil + just transistor ignitor = dumb as they get
- just coil + logic level transistor ignitor = easier to use
- coil with built in transistor ignitor = dumb as they get, same as 1
- coil with built in logic level transistor ignitor = easier to use, same as 2
- logic level transistor setups may incorporate protection/current limit/overdwell protection which can fire the coil prematurely. This could be called smart, but isn't actually smart, just safe, eg LS1 coils
- logic level transistor ignitor with actual dwell control built in and protection - this is what i call smart, and is horrible to use with a standalone. Yes, these actually exist in various forms. The ECU fires the spark, and the ignitor turns on early enough by itself to be fired at a good time with good dwell based on prior events.
Someone might come back with more details/corrections, but this isn't too far off.
[quote="DeuceEFI]
masterkorp wrote:Is the fuel pump relay activator 5V or 12V?
This may be a stupid question, but then again there no stupid questions, just stupid answers.
You can use either a Low Side Driver (switched to ground/earth) or a High Side Driver (supply either 5v or 12v) to activate your fuel pump relay.[/quote]
You can use either, yes, however you have to use what matches your wiring. Typically you send a fused 12V to the relay feed pin, and a switched fused 12V to the relay coil, and ground it with the ECU such that both key AND ECU control the pump with an AND relationship.
Thanks to everyone who helped! :-)