Jaguar Build Choices (0.6-alpha edition, milage may vary)

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Jaguar Build Choices (0.6-alpha edition, milage may vary)

Post by Fred »

There are certain aspects of the Jaguar which require YOU to make a choice during the build and then do something differently. I hope to list each here with options and rational for each choice.

Choices/mods/etc that I've missed, PM me from the bottom of this post!
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VR versus Hall/Opto

Post by Fred »

VR versus Hall/Opto

The Jaguar topology allows either type of input to be used, but with a different set of installed components. For the time being, please refer to the schematic page with this sub-circuit for more information about what you need to do, or not do, as the case may be.

Notes:
  • It's possible to use one input for VR and the other for Hall/Opto.
  • All 5 capacitors (C24, C25, C26, C42, C43) must be installed in all cases.
  • The 6 resistors (R80, R81, R9, R10, R11, R12) and 2 LEDs (D4, D5) on the outputs must be installed in all cases.
  • All 10 resistors on the input side vary or are omitted depending on input type/configuration.
  • For Hall/Opto/Digital/EDIS/DIS use, the RPMX-IN- -ve input pin(s) must be grounded. Using RPMX-shield to do this is quite convenient.
For 0.6-alpha VR requires the following:
  • R16,R17,R18,R19 = 10k 1/4w+
  • R20,R23 = 5k 2w+
  • R22,R83,R21,R84 = do not install
For 0.6-alpha Hall/Opto requires the following:
  • R16,R17,R18,R19 = 1k 1/4w
  • R20,R23 = do not install
  • R22,R83,R21,R84 = 1k 1/4w
See the schematic for more information:

Image
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High Current Grounding For FETs

Post by Fred »

High Current Grounding For FETs

The three sot223 FETs share a single ground called OUT-GND, this should always be connected to ground via a single wire directly to the head/block/chassis/battery.

The 8 injector FETs have a ground each, and the ability to bridge grounds to share connections. If you do not bridge any grounds, you will require one ground wire to your ground point, per FET. While this seems overkill, it's actually not ideal at all. Ideal would be for 2 FETs to share 2 wires, for example. Some example configurations are given below:
  • 4 injector FETs in use, no bridges installed, four independent FETs, each uses 1 wire to ground. Other FETs unused. Bad - a failing wire could leave you running on three cylinders.
  • 4 injector FETs in use, three bridges installed, one set of four FETs, the set uses 2 wires to ground. Other FETs unused. Good - one wire can fail, the system still works adequately.
  • 4 injector FETs in use, two bridges installed, two pairs of FETs, each pair uses 2 wires to ground. Other FETs unused. Better - any one wire can fail, the system still works adequately, however there is less demand on the remaining wires, so performance is better when compromised.
  • 4 injector FETs in use, three bridges installed, one set of four FETs, the set uses 4 wires to ground. Other FETs unused. Best - All four FETs get use of all four wires in parallel at all times, lower resistance and impedance. Up to three wires can fail and the system soldiers on similarly.


In any of the above cases, say you have two more FETs in use on boost and idle, you bridge these together and share 2 wires between them.

Similarly for 6 and 8 cylinders, too.
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MAP Sensors SMD Internal vs. External

Post by Fred »

Internal vs. External MAP Sensor

The MAP sensor can be left off the board if you have and want to use an external MAP sensor.

In the case that you use the internal sensor, you can leave diodes D47 and D48 out as they're not required.

In the case of an external sensor being used, you must leave off U6 and use the three connection points for the external wiring.

SMD MAP Options

If going internal, you need to select the appropriate MAP part to cover your pressure reading needs.
  • 115kPa MAP sensor = high resolution for NA engines (Naturally Aspirated), NO boost. (MPXA6115AC6U or similar)
  • 250kPa MAP sensor = mild boost up to 21psi, fine for NA too, if you don't know what you're doing, choose this. (MPXA4250AC6U or similar)
  • 400kPa MAP sensor = high boost up to 43psi, NA performance usable, but not ideal, good margin for increasing power to insane levels if on mild boost now. (?? or similar)
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LED Colour Advice

Post by Fred »

LED Colour Advice

It's much better to use as many independent colours as possible, however there are certain things that should be kept separate:
  • RX and TX should be different colours, always.
  • RPM0 and RPM1 should be different colours, always.
  • Your set of injector FETs should be the same colour, I prefer green.
  • CEL should vary from the three SOT223 FET LEDs, and ideally each of those should vary from the others.
  • Any remaining DPAK FETs in use should be a different colour from the injector FETs and each other if more than one.
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FET Driver Polarity And Voltage

Post by Fred »

FET Driver Polarity And Voltage

This SHOULD have been chosen before ordering your parts... but you may as well know before you solder anything on and make work for yourself replacing it later!

Ignition drive in FreeEMS is HARDWARE configured. In the case of the Jaguar, this is done by selecting a different FET driver part. The standard part is for non-inverting applications. This means that when the CPU slams 5V into the FET driver input, the FET driver output goes to either 5V or 12V depending upon the jumper installed.

5V is for logic level coils such as LS1 coils and some Honda/Denso COP units, etc.
12V is for normal darlington ignitors such as found on almost anything in the 90s and still some current engines

non-inverted is for all darlington non-smart ignitors and most logic level stuff too.

inverted is for weird stuff that requires a GROUND pulse to dwell the coil, or whatever else.

MOST PEOPLE WILL WANT 12V + NON-INVERTING
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FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
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The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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