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Re: noname build

Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 7:30 am
by nicholasjanssen
I spoke with an expert earlier, (fred again)

I tested and rechecked my measurements of the distrbutor.

The actual sensor appears to be this

http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partg ... nsor/23556

a mini vane hall effect sensor.

The three wires of the "mini vane hall effect sensor" connect to the napa TFI (6 wires) module. (more information here :: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_li ... _tfi.shtml )
(more information here it also lists a vane hall effect sensor http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_li ... stic.shtml)

I applied a 3.99 volt to the module's ignition on wire, and ground, and I carefully measured the "PIP pin" on the napa module that goes to the 1986 ecu.

When the metal of the wheel was directly between the "mini vane hall effect sensor" 's coil and the magnet, I read 3.74 volts constant.
When only air was directly between the "mini vane hall effect sensor" 's coil and the magnet, I read .002 volts constant.
At 0 RPM this was my measurement.

When I rotated the distrbutor faster(10 rpm), voltage averaged out to 2.2? 2.7?. My multimeter has slow updates.









I carefully measured the vane wheel with my 6 in. Digital Caliper these are the measurements.

Each metal tab measures .550 inches wide.
Each gap between the metal tabs is .643 inches wide.
The total diameter is 2.36 inches.

Doing a bit of math on my measurements:

(.550 + .643 ) * 6 = 7.158 inches circumference based on (vane + gap) * 6. (note this calculation is more about a 12 sided polygon's parameter
(2.36 ) * 3.14 = 7.410 inches circumference based on OUTSIDE diameter measurements.

FAIL MEASUREMENTS!!!!!!!!!!


Redo:: I do not understand fully. I might be measuring the air gap incorrectly due to the thickness of the vane plate .02 inches . The outside diameter of the vane cylinder is .04 more than the inside diameter of the vane cylinder.
(2.32 ) * 3.14 = 7.2848 inches circumference based on INSIDE diameter ESTIMATES. = 7.410 inches circumference based on OUTSIDE diameter measurements.


For fun lets make a .02 allowance of error for each vane and each airgap. (12 total ) .24 + or minus.
Subtract our values: 7.410 - 7.158 = 0.252 ........... oh well..:(

as for the angles::

Vane is ( .550 size / 7.2848 estimated circumference ) * 360 degrees. == ARC length as percentage of circumference * degrees ===== 27.17 degrees

Air gap is ( .643 size / 7.2848 estimated circumference ) * 360 degrees. == ARC length as percentage of circumference * degrees ===== 31.77 degrees


6 vanes and 6 air gaps total degrees:: ( 27.2 + 31.80 ) * 6 = 360 degrees YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY

Re: noname build

Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 7:58 am
by Fred
Nicholas, now THAT is what I call a good post! 10/10 :-)

Do you know what to do next to produce firmware to work with this?

Re: noname build

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 3:15 pm
by nicholasjanssen
mmmmm flooded everything!

I have no idea how to fix the configuration for anything. the last two months have been a nightmare.

I live in Baton Rouge Louisiana in a subdivision called sherwood forest and for the first time ever house flooded, cars flooded.

(the truck engine that this project is for had gallons of water that filled the crankcase from the in the distributor hole)
the engine still rotates and cranks but my parts and even ecu board is lost in the mess.


After all of this I need my truck now more than ever, is there a way you could build the firmware for me and I plan to buy a jaguar ecu from http://coolefi.com/products/jaguar/10-c ... embled_pcb

:)

(this is assuming I can get the filler neck to actually accept fuel and the fuel pump is working, and injectors are working, but I wanted to give an update )

Re: noname build

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 3:27 pm
by ToxicGumbo
As a resident of Baton Rouge for 38 years before recently moving to Kansas, having walked through houses in the 9th Ward just after Katrina hit, and with family and friends who witnessed and experienced the flood your'e talking about, I know how unexpected and hard this must have been. I really hope things are improving and that you're past the initial mountain of problems that follow.

Re: noname build

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 7:15 pm
by Fred
And, as Andy said in IRC, provide the specs and we'll build you a firmware for the thing. Was the water salty or pure rain/gumbo?

Re: noname build

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 8:37 am
by sim
A few gallons of denatured or methyl alcohol in the sump will dry
out the engine, follow it with an abundance of oil, fill it right up.

This assumes relatively clean fresh water. If it was salty, or
silty, rinse several times with fresh clean water first.

Figure out a way to spin the oil pump to rinse out the oil
passages.

A sump full of diesel or kerosene between the alcohol and oil will
take care of any sludge. A little ATF in the mix is good too.

Once the oil is in, spin the crank and cam by hand a few times
while running the oil pump. (Don't try to crank it if it is full to the
brim with oil, use a normal amount of oil.)

Recycle the drained oil and alcohol by using it to burn down your
moldy house.

Re: noname build

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 11:47 am
by Fred
LOL @ burn down house, harsh.

Another tip to add to the good advice above: plugs out before cranking to remove compression load from bearings that may not be well lubricated.

Re: noname build

Posted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 5:46 pm
by nicholasjanssen
I can not figure out how to make the config.

Fred, please help!

:)

Re: noname build

Posted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 3:42 am
by Fred
Start with a git clone of the firmware.

Next check out a new branch with your name in it.

Then follow the guide here: viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1085

Use anything in the "initialisers" config directory and top level makefile that contains HOTEL, for inspiration.

Push your branch to the same got service/repository that you cloned it from.

Link me to your branch via IM or PM. Post again with what you did, or couldn't do.