You should let the distributor fire the coil itself until you get the injection working properly. Or is that what you meant?nicholasjanssen wrote:first step is to get the engine running with failsafe 10 degrees timing. (yes I know this will hurt performance/oxygen readings at higher rpm but I must /will fix engine to be functional)dbh97 wrote:Of interest:
http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=469
noname build
Re: noname build
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- QFP80 - Contributor
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Re: noname build
dbh97 wrote:You should let the distributor fire the coil itself until you get the injection working properly. Or is that what you meant?nicholasjanssen wrote:first step is to get the engine running with failsafe 10 degrees timing. (yes I know this will hurt performance/oxygen readings at higher rpm but I must /will fix engine to be functional)dbh97 wrote:Of interest:
http://rusefi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=469
yes. The distributor will auto fire at constant failsafe 10 degrees timing, if it receives no signal from the 1986 ecu.
Re: noname build
You could, but it's always going to be shit, and it's non-trivial to implement, so the reward:effort ratio would be crappy.nicholasjanssen wrote:sad news..
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Re: noname build
ok finding most of the parts through mouser
the only problem is this resettable polyfuse 8volt and trip at .5 amps
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... -1480-1-ND
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.asp ... E+0.50A+8V
can i use a 6volt fuse instead? I believe both of them are tied to the manifold absolute pressure circuit, and the throttle position circuit
also on page 2 of the pdf https://github.com/DeuceEFI/Jaguar/blob ... f?raw=true
whats PLL circuit? that connects to pin 44 45 and 43
Lastly what is the "Ferrite 1.5A 40 Ohm 0805 SMD" go to? I cannot find it in the schematics
the only problem is this resettable polyfuse 8volt and trip at .5 amps
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... -1480-1-ND
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.asp ... E+0.50A+8V
can i use a 6volt fuse instead? I believe both of them are tied to the manifold absolute pressure circuit, and the throttle position circuit
also on page 2 of the pdf https://github.com/DeuceEFI/Jaguar/blob ... f?raw=true
whats PLL circuit? that connects to pin 44 45 and 43
Lastly what is the "Ferrite 1.5A 40 Ohm 0805 SMD" go to? I cannot find it in the schematics
Re: noname build
You can bridge out the fuses if you want. Some people would prefer that for voltage fidelity anyway.
PLL is CPU clock stuff.
Ferrite is USB UART IC decoupling.
Fred.
PLL is CPU clock stuff.
Ferrite is USB UART IC decoupling.
Fred.
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Re: noname build
I can always count on Fred to give best answer..Fred wrote:You can bridge out the fuses if you want. Some people would prefer that for voltage fidelity anyway.
PLL is CPU clock stuff.
Ferrite is USB UART IC decoupling.
Fred.
Thank you
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Re: noname build
Pictures of distributor Variable reluctance sensor ford feedback carburator TFI module.
I can't find the even tooth decoder in the codebase. I would really like to test and run the project at first with an even tooth decoder, and then move onto installing a 36-2 trigger wheel on the crankshaft with hall effect sensor.
I can't find the even tooth decoder in the codebase. I would really like to test and run the project at first with an even tooth decoder, and then move onto installing a 36-2 trigger wheel on the crankshaft with hall effect sensor.
Last edited by Fred on Sun Jul 17, 2016 7:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: noname build
There are these decoders:
- EvenTeeth-Xand1.c Requires a sync, the '1' part, to operate, uses only one edge, assumed for VR use.
- HallOrOptical-Distributor-XofY.c Requires a specific usage definition, giving a single fixed angle for open, and closed, and a number of events.
- The former can't be used on that, without a second sensor picking up a sync point.
- The latter can't be used on that, because you said the gaps/solids are not consistent around the disk.
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Re: noname build
thanks fred
i want to use whatever works
preferably diyefi
but to install a trigger wheel on the crank is going to be really tough
there is 2 cm clearance from the harmonic balancer to fan blades (attached to water pump?? on engine)
i don't see any mounting holes on harmonic balancer
harmonic balancer bolt is inset ?4cm? so a flat trigger wheel can't be installed with a bolt because that would be more than 2 cm and the fan would be hit
i want to prototype first with a syncless decoder.
i want to use whatever works
preferably diyefi
but to install a trigger wheel on the crank is going to be really tough
there is 2 cm clearance from the harmonic balancer to fan blades (attached to water pump?? on engine)
i don't see any mounting holes on harmonic balancer
harmonic balancer bolt is inset ?4cm? so a flat trigger wheel can't be installed with a bolt because that would be more than 2 cm and the fan would be hit
i want to prototype first with a syncless decoder.
Re: noname build
If that thing is even, the second option will work. But you need to supply the angles...
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FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!