J-series Acura/Honda

All home-built FreeEMS implementations without a forum of their own, usually TA-based.
Peter
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

Post by Peter »

MAX992x CH1 PT0
MAX992x CH2 PT1
LM1949 1-6 PT2-7
IAT AN00
Coolant Temp AN01
TPS AN02
Oxygen Sensor AN03
MPXH6250AC6U Manifold Absolute Pressure AN04
MPXH6115A6T1 Atmosphereic Absolute Pressure AN05
Battery Reference Voltage AN06
TPIC8101DW Knock Sensor OUT AN07 'Because it's hooked up to AN16 in the schematics, 144 pin Ver?
The rest of the knock sensor connections are PA4 and PS4-7 as shown in the Ravage schematics
External MAP AN08
Anything I forgot?

More or less done I hope, because if it isn't I'm going to have to get some sockets and start building on the third floor.
Image
Fred wrote:Consider a small one for analogue stuff on top of your TA card rather than redoing everything?
There's no way I'm starting over at this point. I'll glue another board to the side of this one if I need to. I was just commenting on how much space I have left.
:-p
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Fred
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

Post by Fred »

List looks good. Move the knock chip to AN09 though, as otherwise you'll have to move it later for MAT if you add that. Also, did you use 1% resistors on the BRV and thermistor inputs? Are you sharing thermistors with OEM? If you are, you really need to find out what the OEM uses for bias, not install your own bias, and setup the code to match the OEM bias. There is no firmware for the knock chip, though I'm happy that you're wiring it up as I'll be able to write some code for it and have you test.

Were all of these parts acquired as samples or what? Can I get a sample of a knock chip to play with here for example?

Fred.
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

Post by Peter »

My 1% resistor set only goes from 1k to 100k, so all of the 470Ohm resistors are 5%. I don't plan on sharing the thermistors. I don't know if it adjusts the timing based on temperature, but if it does I'll probably stick a digital POT on it. The engine has a knock sensor on it, but the ecu doesn't support it so I figured I'd try to hook it up to this even though it's not controlling the timing yet. Some of it's free, but I bought most of it from Digikey. I'd be happy to donate a knock sensor to the cause. As long as I'm going to shipping to NZ, do you need anything else form a US distributor?
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

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Just the 1k/3.9k combo for the battery voltage is critical for tolerance, and you can measure and fine tune it in software anyway. Those and the bias ones on the termistors, again, measure and tune in software if accuracy is desired/required (usually a good idea to at least get it close).

The 470 ohm stuff is not critical really.

If you don't have coolant temperature, cold starting will be a bitch and it will only ever run right warm. You could have a pot and set the curve up to give normal fueling for the last 10% of range, though, and richer below that, like a choke on an old car. If you don't have an accurate and fast IAT sensor in the output of the cooler free of heat soak and with open element, all fueling will be wrong.

Regards timing, if you were doing only ignition, then you'd be in a position to not care about temperatures at all. Whatever temperature does to the tune, you can negate by using flat curves, or set with pots. IAT is quite important for boosted stuff though as temps do vary with boost, obviously.

As far as me needing stuff, I'm OK for the time being. I could possibly do with some shipping with "gift" on it as I'm in the EU (not NZ) and they're cracking down on incoming stuff, but I know enough yanks to help with that as it is. Thanks for the offer, though. I married a Spanish girl a few months ago and will be living here (Barcelona Spain) with her for a few years before returning home.

Fred.
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Peter
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

Post by Peter »

Fred wrote:If you don't have coolant temperature, cold starting will be a bitch and it will only ever run right warm.
I was thinking of not sharing the sensors with the OEM ecu, and using the digital pot to coarsely run the dash gauges and give the OEM ecu something so look at.
Fred wrote:will be living here (Barcelona Spain) with her for a few years before returning home.
I hope that works out for you. I've heard a lot of bad things about the euro, not that the dollar is any better off.

So now all I need to do is solder a wiring harness into the car, and figure out some of the software.
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

Post by Fred »

Ahh, OK. Up to you, if you can make that work, go right ahead.
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Dan
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

Post by Dan »

WOW! I like it! Nice work Peter! :-)
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

Post by Peter »

Dan wrote:WOW! I like it! Nice work Peter! :-)
Well thanks, but don't overestimate my capabilities, because I've probably spent about 18 to 24 hours trying to get a CRANK_WIH_CAMSYNC working by trying to combine 12Even crank teeth with 6-2 missing teeth on the cam working without any success, because I don't know whats going on. All it really did was get me to drink excessively. Which will account for any bad grammar in this post. Which I'll probably edit in the morning if Fred doesn't revoke my editing privileges; like he did with the moron(s) that were trying to sell the Bosch L4.9 setup. You could at least proxy in, and wait for your posts to appear to edit and respond to your posts, but whatever. I did figure out how I can add and eliminate .S19 from the makefile to create the filmware files. Which doesn't really help me. I should either work it from the top level down or the bottom level up, but I don't really understand the middle yet, so it turns into a shit-show trying to burn the candle from both ends. Part of the problem is the 16 different versions. VR.0.1.1.XGATED is kind of hard to understand and, the snapshots of Fred's version don't compile, so I try and add the two together and "EPIC FAIL!!!". One(I think good) thought I had was to build the boards separately like you objects in software, and connect them together with a cable. This way if the low-Z, high-Z, analog input, or 9S12XP board didn't work you could just unplug it, and plug in the "cheaper" replacement with a cable. Even though it would be cheaper to do it right the first time, but we're all humans. Then once you get a setup you're happy with in your small community(that's willing to work through problems) you could sent up the Gerber file to build the version 1, to go "main stream".
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

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Peter wrote:I've probably spent about 18 to 24 hours trying to get a CRANK_WIH_CAMSYNC working by trying to combine 12Even crank teeth with 6-2 missing teeth on the cam working without any success
Don't feel bad, I wasn't expecting doing a solid setup for you to be easy for me to do, let alone anyone else. It should be possible, though. You have stuff wired up, I said I would help those with stuff wired up. I'm somewhat over worked, but I'll try to formulate a plan very soon and work with you on bringing it to fruition. The first thing to do, though, is get it synced and possibly even running with JUST 6-2 cam mode. Now, even this is fraught with danger as I've not tested N-2 or cam only modes yet. Something could be broken there. I think I found my priorities for today... :-) Once you have that at least reading RPM and with stable sync, then we can try to go custom and do something specific to your engine.
All it really did was get me to drink excessively. Which will account for any bad grammar in this post. Which I'll probably edit in the morning if Fred doesn't revoke my editing privileges; like he did with the moron(s) that were trying to sell the Bosch L4.9 setup. You could at least proxy in, and wait for your posts to appear to edit and respond to your posts, but whatever.
ROFL, LOL, hahahahah. This made my morning! A sincere thank you from me! :-)
I did figure out how I can add and eliminate .S19 from the makefile to create the filmware files. Which doesn't really help me. I should either work it from the top level down or the bottom level up, but I don't really understand the middle yet, so it turns into a shit-show trying to burn the candle from both ends.
I apologise for laughing at your pain, but the way you articulate it is hilarious! :-)
Part of the problem is the 16 different versions. VR.0.1.1.XGATED is kind of hard to understand and, the snapshots of Fred's version don't compile, so I try and add the two together and "EPIC FAIL!!!".
OK, there is only one version that you should be hacking on and it's one that you track with git from my repo. Anything older is usually flawed even more in some way, though sometimes the reverse is true for brief periods. The older releases were more mile stones. The next release is a real system that people can use, at least a bit, without any hacking of code. Latest really is the greatest, here.
One(I think good) thought I had was to build the boards separately like you objects in software, and connect them together with a cable. This way if the low-Z, high-Z, analog input, or 9S12XP board didn't work you could just unplug it, and plug in the "cheaper" replacement with a cable. Even though it would be cheaper to do it right the first time, but we're all humans. Then once you get a setup you're happy with in your small community(that's willing to work through problems) you could sent up the Gerber file to build the version 1, to go "main stream".
I'm not sure what you're talking about, but in future, when you drink, please post on the forum more! I love it! :-)

Fred.
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Fred
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Re: J-series Acura/Honda

Post by Fred »

Put the attached in the latest firmware with an appropriate makefile change and see if you can get RPM from it. If not, do me a .bin log so that I can try to diagnose the issue.

Note, you'll need one of the cam inputs to be attached to T0 for this to work, hopefully it's easy to jumper for you.

Fred.
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