DIYEFI.org Forum

Post up your thoughts and comments on TA card mods, as mentioned or new from your own original research!

Fred.

Change C15 to 680pF
Change R1 to 3.3kOhms with 1% tolerance
Change C16 to 6800pF
Cut JB2
Bridge R5
Remove the voltage regulator from the bottom of the board and bridge PS

For the heartbeat sensor:
PA6 is PIN2 on header 2


Edit: Fixed picture links one at a time

Peter, when you say "jumper PS" what do you mean? And what do the green dots represent? I ask these questions, not because I don't know what's required, but because I think the above is unclear in that respect and would like you to clarify for others :-)

Thanks for making up the image with the locations, that makes it nice and simple for noobs! :-)

Fred.

I was referring to the 5V Power Supply with PS. I didn't like how hot the LM2937 was getting so I pulled it off the board, because I didn't have room for a heat sink due to some circuits I had already put under the board. So if you decide to remove the on board voltage regulator you will have to connect the two green dots together, and make sure to only supply 5V to the board from then on. One green dot is the connection to the off board power, and the other one is the 5V power for the board.

Right! But your diagram makes it look like PS is the header and that should be bridged, which is of course wrong :-) Thanks for clarifying. And no, you can't run it without a heatsink and it's never going to be reliable with the on board reg in a car with a heatsink on it and vibrations, so I've always said it has to come off. The original ones came with a crappy 100mA regulator too, which wasn't good enough even with a heatsink.