DIYEFI.org Forum

I have JB peak and hold on the hotel hyundai and it makes tuning super easy because dead time is flat with respect to voltage, just figure out what it is, and set the curve to that value across the board. Unconventional, but really easy to work with once you realise what's going on :-)

I'd recommend spending some time getting one engine running well and dialled in so you understand the limitations etc before trying a second, third, or fourth.

In particular, even though I use it, I don't recommend 60-2 for others as it's not perfect. (mine has some minor issues). Also it has no cam sync option for now, so that's another factor perhaps, depending on how you want it wired up.

I see my map is jumping around when rpm is reach 4-5k, then i realize I'm using MPX6250 when default is MPX4250.
Can I just simply make a change here? I also make a change here, and looks like my TPS is perfect. What is this line use for? I put 2, engine start once, then it never start again. And last one:

Out from TC4424--->resistor mark as 1600---> 1k resistor---> pin 1 IGBT. Can I just remove that 1k resistor?


Thanks in advace.

Amatt

Gidday,

Not sure on the spec of that MAP sensor, the values in the code I got from the data sheets for the devices in question, compare the two data sheets and if the voltage to pressure ratios are the same, you can use it without change. You can stick raw values in there, or use the macro that does the math for you to make it readable or set up a define like those of your own.

Good news on the TPS :-)

That line says it WILL NOT start unless you get N sync confirmations in a row - N is zero for the fastest start with the assumption that most setups are fundamentally good and one small error while cranking is unlikely to break anything. 1 is safer but you'd have to crank longer. If you have any noise/sync loss/timing issues/etc AT ALL having it above zero will prevent you starting. If you raise the other related value that stops your engine being destroyed if you lose sync in boost - higher number = more sure of what's going on. Lower number = less sure. For idiot-proofing reasons (and to stop me doing silly things sometimes) that number is N+1 so a setting of 0 actually results in one check if sync is lost.

^ first thing to understand is that there is a distinction between catching sync from cold and recatching it, the latter is handled with more fussiness for safety and the former with less fussiness for fast starting. Setting the one you pasted above to a higher value than the other one makes no sense at all. Hence defaults are 0 and 1 (or higher?) respectively. For some setups higher than 1 reconfirms is a pain because they're once per 2 revolutions. For others it's good/fine because it can be completed in a fraction of a revolution.

No idea what 1k resistor you're talking about.

Hope that helps.

Plane man, if you're seeing this, I have your thread open in a tab awaiting a reply to be written - i'm getting there - sorry! :-D

I'm not sure how to describe the 1k resistor. It is in JBperf 4channel ign/inj board. Let me attach drawing later.

Link to the product, too, so I can see what it's intended for - last I checked circuits either did inj well or ign well, not both.