M2cupcar's 1990 Mazda Mx-5 Miata FE3 Turbo (35th)

[m2cupcar]

For some reason I didn't do this for the original install- but it's now proper. Idle air valve is tied back into intake system to ensure any valve leaks under boost don't actually leak boost.

Cut stub on valve and added a bend for clearance and aim:


Coldside intercooler pipe with idle valve port added:


View of the valve mounted to the throttle body with hose installed:


View from other side of throttle body showing route downward to the intercooler port:

[m2cupcar]

I replaced the mushroom foam air filter which was disintegrating from the outside, littering the engine bay with red foam dust. I'd like to build a box around that monster.

[Fred]

Funny about your vband welding! I did exactly the same thing, though my leak is a lot less obvious than yours was. I figured that because the weld was a full inch away from the surface it'd be OK. Wrong. :-) How thick from flat face to weld was yours?

Great work on all the rest. That air filter is almost phallic! :-)

What's top of your hit list on the car, now?

And what are your end-goals for it? Or is it basically where you want it minus fine tuning/fixes/tweaks/tuning?

[m2cupcar]

Vband weld is probably 20mm from the face.

I ordered the air filter based on it's advertised dimensions as the largest that would fit and was surprised find they were accurate when it dropped in.

Priority is to dial in injector dead time and tune.

To-do list looks like this now:
• tune iinjector dead time
• Improve wiper performance- swap in other motors and check auto park
• modify 5spd shifter to fit center console
• Front spoiler - victim of launched road debris
• Alignment: *slightly* wandery above 120 in a dead straight line
• Overrun rattle around 2500 RPM- PPF?
• RX7 FC transmission swap/PPF adapter & driveshaft

I looked into the wiper issue. When I shut them off they don't auto park- just stop. That means something is up with the motor- fortunately I have three more on the shelf, so that's just a matter of swapping them out. Of course they could all be bad.

With the engine pushed back in the chassis, the shifter won't stay in 2nd, 4th or 5th because it hits the console. I'm going to section it and move the top part forward so it's offset by enough to avoid the interference.

Alignment doesn't bother me at the moment, so that's low on the list- and I suspect it's because the front has 0 toe.

I may not address the overrun rattle because it's a constant reminder that I need to get the FC transmission adapted and installed.

[Fred]

By FC, do you mean FD with longer input shaft?

Injector dead time tuning we covered in explicit detail. Looking forward to your version in American English instead of geek :-D

Are you super against giving the car a little toe?

Didn't notice the "won't stay in gear" issue when I drove it. Moved it back even more?

Plus on on getting the R type trans in. Win. FD ones have dual synchros on a few gears, too, which has to be better than my truck one, which shifts like shit.

[m2cupcar]

Correct FD transmission - not the FC. The longer input shaft is the bolt-in solution with the Bongo bell housing I have.

I need to keep reviewing my notes between now and when I get around to doing this for fear of forgetting. Though I believe I understand the fundamental purpose behind the steps.

Console was not installed when you drove it. If it was, you would have notice as the revs skyrocketed and the car quit propelling forward.

The FD transmissions swap isn't really intimidating- just time consuming. The only real part cost will be a revised or new clutch disk with the correct splines- perhaps a slave. The real work will be constructing the adapter for the tail shaft to the Miata PPF. I'll pay a driveline shop to build me a hybrid drive shaft from a R size and Miata drive shaft as I did with the current shortened drive shaft.

[m2cupcar]

Found a good wiper motor on the shelf- so I now have working windshield wipers.

Got the stick/shifter modified so the stock center console will now fit.



Also added a twin usb charging/power ports in the center console.

[Fred]

^ fails to mention fixing boost leak(s) and spinning tyres on a roll in second ;-)

[m2cupcar]

I hadn't driven the car yet! Yes - boost leaks fixed. Throttle modulation is required to prevent smoking tires. I'm running the Innovate SG1 which is a wideband controller/gauge, boost controller and shift light rolled into one gauge. Now that the boost is fixed it's apparent I need to tune boost control- my boost curve bends over right as it starts to rise.

First and second gear:

[m2cupcar]

Details and spool posted elsewhere. This with the EWG held shut with boost for a baseline.

Engine: FE3 (FE-dohc) 2.0L
Turbo: $99 eBay hybrid T turbo: 50trim 50AR T4 compressor, Stage 3 63AR T3 Turbine (measured for Garrett spec match, wheel/blade contours not matched)
Manifold: SS Autochrome long tube top mount for BP, flange ported and drilled for FE
Downpipe Size/Style: 3"
Exhaust Size: 3"
Exhaust Components: Magnaflow 12589
Intercooler Core Size: eBay "delta fin" 20x12x2.5
Intake Manifold: Magnus aftermarket DSM sheetmetal mated to stock FE flange/stubs
Headwork: None (stock)
Engine Management: CoolEFI Jaguar Alpha 0.7 running FreeEMS open source code
Other Spoolin' Helpers/Hurters: 200 cell metal cat, stock Ford 65mm throttle body, 38mm eBay EWG on #4 runner, stock 1.6 coils
Trans & Rear End Ratio: Miata 5 speed, 4th gear pull, 3.6 torsen
Rear tire size: 205/50/15

RPM = PSI / KPA
1830 = onset
2500 = 3.3 / 123.15
2750 = 5.3 / 136.46
3000 = 6.8 / 146.31
3100 = 7.9 / 154.50
3200 = 9.4 / 164.66
3300 = 11.7 / 180.80
3400 = 14.3 / 198.65
3500 = 16.1 / 210.85
3609 = 22.0 / 251.99