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AiToR51's 1992 Ford Sierra XR4i 2.0 (24th) 
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QFP80 - Contributor
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thanks


I'm attaching a new log from today. I've updated ignition and VE tables to use something similar to my M$ config. ( https://github.com/AiToR51/freeems-vani ... /OMG.GZ.MS )
I've also to update the engine decoder offset. I've to add 10º and now runs smoother. With the same air coming into the engine now idles at around 1200-1400 rpm instead of the 600 of the another day. is similar as my MS do if I disconnect the idle valve and let the same pipe I've to disconect to use the FreeEMS

I also reduced my RPM cut to 5000 rpm to avoid problems with decoder.


I'm upoladed a new video to youtube of this run... But is not complete, as my mobile phone decided to stop recording video at around the half of the run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqRbPFJcyyU

this is testing injection cut at 5.000 rpm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDar6eUu9lc


Attachments:
File comment: log of the firs run on road with my FreeEMS
log1.tgz [709.42 KiB]
Downloaded 132 times

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Fri Nov 01, 2013 6:00 pm
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AiToR51 wrote:
I've also to update the engine decoder offset. I've to add 10º and now runs smoother.
this is testing injection cut at 5.000 rpm


You probably don't want to use the decoder offset to tune how the
engine runs. Unlike an old distributor set-up, where you rotate
the distributor to adjust base timing, spark advance is
controlled by the table in the ECUs memory.

The decoder offset is a fixed number for any given engine setup.
It is simply the angle between the synchronization signal and a
fixed crank angle (TDC, IIRC).

A good way to determine the decoder offset is as follows:
1) Load a flat timing table into the EMS, that is a table with only
one timing value in all of the cells. Use a value the engine will
be happy to idle on, ie, 10 degrees or thereabouts. If your
engine has a timing cover with timing marks, choose a value that
appears on the scale.

2) With the fuel shut off (pull fuel pump/injector fuse/relay),
and a timing light connected, crank the engine. Try to determine
where the pulley is when the strobe goes off. Some additional
marks on the pulley can help here. A dab of white paint on the
timing mark helps quite a bit too.

3) Adjust the offset in the direction that will make the strobe
flash closer to the point where the marks line up.

4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you get a consistent strobe with
the timing marks lined up.

5) Make a note of the offset, and enter it into your permanent
config. Change the timing table back to one appropriate to run
your engine. Reinstall the fuel fuse or relay.

It is a good idea to start the engine and let it rev, while
watching the timing light to ensure the spark is happening at
the right time.

Once the decoder offset is set, it should not be changed unless
something has caused the trigger wheel timing to change.

If you are unlucky enough to have a newer engine without timing
marks, you may have to determine TDC with an indicator down a
plug hole (or the factory procedure, if different), and mark the
crank pulley yourself. In this case, it might be easiest to use a
flat zero degree timing table.

To get the engine to idle nice, adjust the timing table in the
low RPM cells, rather than fiddle with the offset.


EDIT:
Quote:
< AiToR51> ok, thanks for your post. The reason of my change is
because I checked in an engine I've in house without head and
measure the angle between when there is the missing teeth to the
position where is TDC, and it's 90º


AiToR51 pointed out in IRC that he made the change to offset
based on measuring another motor, and not for the purpose of
tuning his idle. This is a reasonable and correct thing to do.

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Last edited by sim on Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.



Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:57 pm
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Didn't read sim's post, too busy, but:

[19:19] == AiToR51 [4d1b48e7@gateway/web/freenode/ip.77.27.72.231] has quit [Quit: Page closed]
[19:32] <@simis> I don't think AiToR51 should be using the decoder offset to set his base timing...
[20:03] <LonelyFred> No, he shouldn't, shame you just missed him. Please tell him to SET it ONCE according to his timing light and pulley(s) and then TUNE the timing to his tastes.
[20:04] <LonelyFred> IE quote me to him when he's next here.

There is exactly ONE correct offset value!!! Find it, stick with it.

Fred.

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Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:03 pm
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QFP80 - Contributor
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I copy here what we talked in IRC to not loose it

[19:15] <AiToR51> ok, thanks for your post. The reason of my change is because I checked in an engine I've in house without head and measure the angle between when there is the missing teeth to the position where is TDC, and it's 90º
[19:16] <AiToR51> the problem of using a timing light is that my engine doesn't have timing marks near the crank pulley
[19:16] <@simis> That is a fair and reasonable thing to do.
[19:16] <@simis> Yes...
[19:16] <@simis> But there is nail polish, and dial indicators.
[19:16] <masterkorp> lol @ nail polish
[19:17] <masterkorp> but it might work
[19:17] <@simis> Tried it, works great.
[19:17] <AiToR51> is a good idea
[19:17] <AiToR51> I will buy a timing light first :P
[19:17] <@simis> The decoder offset is fairly important, so it's worth double checking.
[19:18] <@simis> On the other hand, if you are using a factory missing tooth wheel, that will always be in the same position, from car to car, then you are probably fine doing what you have done.
[19:19] <@simis> You just made it sound like you were using the offset to tune your idle, and that is really not the right thing to do.
[19:19] <AiToR51> yes, in my MS the values I was using I didn't prove to be sure that are 100% correct. But there were another users that checked it. And now with 90º runs nearly the same way with the MS
[19:20] <@simis> No problem. I can be a little pedantic.
[19:20] <AiToR51> is better at this way
[19:20] <AiToR51> is an important thing
[19:20] <AiToR51> but yes, I want to check it with a timing light

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Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:17 pm
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Other than just adding paint to ID TDC, you can also cut one or more small shallow slots in the pulley edge with a hacksaw and fill them with white/silver paint. To use these you need a backing plate with degree markings, zero and 10 are enough, 0, 10, 20 is better. Find a flat part of the engine and scribe these in with something hard/sharp. Or, if no flat bits exist, mount something flat somewhere convenient and mark it accordingly. You must mark the TDC on the pulley relative to the TDC on the plate while the engine is at TDC. IE, TDC markings can be at any angle.

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Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:42 am
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ok thanks. I will try it when having the timing light :lol2:



on the other hand, I've been driving my car with FreeEMS for more than 15km in total. Is good, I like how it goes, is smooth and it was not hard to tune the VE table to get EGO values near the lambda ones I've on the Lamba table.
Today, after do another test, I will put here my current ecu definition, tables and log.

but is not good to don't have idle valve control :P

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Sun Nov 03, 2013 11:29 am
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Re idle valve, hook hw to pwm pin 1, and configure a fixed duty for it, for now. Need to disable demo pwm output changes in code, too.

Glad you're happy with the way it's running :-)

Fred.

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FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
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Sun Nov 03, 2013 5:17 pm
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open loop idle control!? awesome


Sun Nov 03, 2013 5:28 pm
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Open loop is coming, as soon as it's ready.

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n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sun Nov 03, 2013 8:57 pm
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Fred wrote:
Re idle valve, hook hw to pwm pin 1, and configure a fixed duty for it, for now. Need to disable demo pwm output changes in code, too.

Glad you're happy with the way it's running :-)

Fred.


Ok, I will have a look on this




---

about my tuning. I started with a flat VE table and it was better.

Here a video after some tune

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yvsEg9p4ck

but still don't have a lot of power. I'm waiting to arrive a timing light I've ordered on ebay. Then I will check ignition timing right.
the log when this video happens is this the first one.

Is normal to see the rpm signal "unclean"? like with spikes? (ie: record n 36860)


when arrived house did some tuning on VE tables and gone again two times (following 2 logs).

Next day I recalibrated my LC1 WB with fresh air.. I think It was a bit out (reading richer than it was??) as you can see in the last log. Probably one of the reaons to get that higher EGTs you can see in the video


logs: attached

ecu: (EMStudio json format) attached


Attachments:
log3.7z [3.91 MiB]
Downloaded 115 times
log_1_2.7z [3.79 MiB]
Downloaded 118 times
centralita_domingo.zip [10.34 KiB]
Downloaded 119 times

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