meow

http://youtu.be/xpSTZzPHgLg

Purrrrrrr.

Is the engine idling around lambda 1?

Maybe my problem is I spent too much time researching.

I found all of the following flow values:
305cc/m
308cc/m
310cc/m
315cc/m

Who knows what they will really flow with a 3.5bar regulator from
a 740 turbo.

(These are Bosch p/n: 0 280 150 785, orange tops, from a 1995
Volvo 850 Turbo B5234T)

I did get some nifty little 150ml pyrex measuring cups with
almost vertical sides and 10ml graduations. Looks like 20 seconds
should get me about 100ml.

Between them and the kitchen scale, I should be able to get a
decent measurement.

I want to do it on the car, hooked up the way they will run. The
only way I can think of to get the voltage right is to do the test
with my work truck idling and jumpered to the battery.

If I do the increasing pulsewidths until fuel just flows trick, I
should be able to measure the opening time also. Dunno what to do
about the closing time.

For flow, I think what I would do is make the opening time (which is 1ms +/- 2ms) completely negligible by making the overall flow time as large as possible (1 second of flow makes it 0.1%, 10 seconds 0.01%, etc).

For dead time I'd likely do something similar to the car, and that is make 400 shots at 2ms, 200 @ 4ms and 100 @ 8ms and measure the output quantity of each, then do math. I'm not sure the dribbling trick is going to give a good answer, but it would certainly be interesting.

As for the correct voltage, I'd be aiming to know dead time at at least three distinct voltages, one of them low (7 - 10 range), one medium (12 to 13), and one at 14.4, the rest can be extrapolated. You should be using similar fets to drive them too, and similar wire lengths, etc.

Also, for flow, you should match the pressure, or do multiple pressures to get a feel for that curve.

Hope this doesn't muddy the water even more.

Fred.

Right, that's why I'm aiming to collect 100ml at an opening time
of around 20 seconds. The dead time should be pretty much
indistinguishable from error at that point.



This would have the advantage of measuring opening and closing
time. Sounds like the best approach.



I can do battery voltage (~12v), and alternator voltage (~14.5v)
fairly easily with a second running vehicle. Low is more
difficult without discharging my battery to the point of
possible damage (or a fancy power supply I haven't got).

I'm going to do the tests on the car, with everything
wired/plumbed normally.



Thanks Fred,

Sorry for polluting your triumphant thread with this Daniel, I
had meant to start a new one.

Don't worry about the thread, 1) Daniel is one of the best dudes on planet earth, he won't care. 2) I can and likely will split it off at some point. Carry on.

For low voltage you could inline a few FAT diodes. Fat diodes are found inside big bridge rectifiers which can be connected from + to - to drop two diodes worth in parallel/series combo. If you used two bridges, you'd lose around 2.4V ;-)

Fred.

bloody thread hijackers.......

FYI Sim, some volvo FPR's are 2.5bar ones.
I cant see the one on my engine but I have another from a B6304 that has 2.5bar stamped on it.

Flow @ 43.5 PSI / 3 Bars
270.9

this would suggest that they are actually 270cc injectors.@3bar


copied from here:http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

what is the part number on the injectors?