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Hentai's 1992 Mazda Miata (15th) 
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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ivan141 wrote:
That ducting solution for your air intake will probably lower your cooling efficiency. It relieves the pressure differential across your radiator somewhat, which in turn lowers the airflow through it.
One duct wont make a drastic difference, but I've seen friends who put a hole in the panel next to the radiator loose precious seat time at track days due to overheating problems they didnt have before the mod.
An airbox would be the best solution for a good supply of cold air.

I'm aware of that issue, I saw clt temps go up by around 5c or so after the ducting at the back of the head.
I'm thinking of making a naca duct on the driver side fender to bring in air to the turbo from there instead.


Wed Jul 22, 2015 1:31 am
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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top pic of all data
bottom of start after sitting for a while

I think the jump in mat temp while off maybe a fuel droplet igniting on a hot surface possibly?
An active pressure sensor would help verify that while the car is off.
Seems like it takes around 19 minutes to fully heatsoak the intake manifold before leveling off from shutdown.

For the most part MAT is stable, but seems after letting the throttle shut has the mat temp rise, and it gets worse if the load was in a higher state. I'm thinking more and more this is cause of the in cylinder air rushing into the manifold because of the pressure difference like stated eariler.

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Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:29 am
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Your reasoning about MAT sounds a bit overcomplicated.. I would expect temps to rise with the throttle shut due to the lower intake airflow.
Dont know if your running any phenolic/teflon type spacer, but if not it stands to reason the manifold will absorb heat from the cylinderhead.

[edit]I now see you might have been talking about the bottom graph where MAT spikes a little on throttle closed. Might also just be an effect
of the sensor temperature influencing it's readings when not directly exposed to airflow.[/edit]

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Wed Jul 22, 2015 8:29 am
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15-20 minutes seems to be about the expect time from shut off to full heat soak in the intake manifold


Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:03 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:03 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Turbo manifold broke
Sent out my GT2260V out to get a manifold made

N\A for the time being

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Wed Sep 02, 2015 11:15 am
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Is it possible for you to seal each end of that manifold before you install it, and feed compressed air into one bung with the others blocked and the paint detergent water on it? You'll almost certainly have some pin holes to fill having used flux core, and you don't want that when widebands are involved. My 2c. Worth checking. When I did my sump it looked a million dollars, but the starts of the welds had insufficient heat and leaked slightly. I found that with petrol/gasoline as a low-viscosity fill up and looked for the leaks with my eyes as air wasn't a feasible option for the sump.

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Wed Sep 02, 2015 1:19 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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[QUOTE=Techsalvager;7661290]Some wiring and cleaning up
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Sun Sep 06, 2015 4:44 am
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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So I've replaced the ID1000's with some chevy cruze injectors, idle is a lot more stable with less deviatation between cylinders.

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Sun Sep 27, 2015 2:47 am
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Great work, hentai! Super proud of you digging in with the hex editor and making those changes! Viva la independencia! :-)

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FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sun Sep 27, 2015 8:19 am
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