DIYEFI.org Forum

It's alive!!!

Owner: Mike
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Camaro
Engine: Small Block Chevy V8
Capacity: 383CI
Power Adders: HAH!
Hardware: Jaguar A3

Videos:
First tests:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xt69Pb4EqmM

Getting there...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0Is8VRfU-M

Finally running!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQoMmq1w0h4

Good work, Mike! :-)

I expect this will do wonders for the EMStudio UI :-)

Congratulations!

Fred.

Awesome work!

Congratulations on the 3rd Jaguar to run an engine!!!

Woohoo!

Congratulations! It's a testament to your skills, FreeEMS, and the design of the Jaguar that this took such an incredibly short time to pull together. Well done.


-Jeff

Got it up to temperature today playing around with the VE table. Took a log of it revving up. It does a funny little oscillation due to the un-smooth VE table... but it actually idles fairly well.

And of course I forgot to hit "save" to save my changes to RAM, so I lost them when I disconnected the ECU. The car had started to get warm, so I decided I should hook up my cooling system proper so I can tune it idling at temperature. I hooked up my radiator fan and restarted the vehicle, couldn't for the life of me get it to idle! It would start, run for a few seconds, then die. Not losing sync, just running super rich (from smell perhaps? WBO2 is useless at these edge cases).

Fred pointed out that a VE of ~26 is illogically low, and thus is likely a configuration issue. Double checking I found that my configuration is in fact incorrect. I never changed the injection events per cycle after I went from 2 to 8 injection events. I will make that change and play around, see if I can get the car to idle again.

Other than the configuration issue which was an issue when it was running fine earlier, I'm not entirely sure what could be causing it to not run. The only real difference was the amount of noise the fan put out, since it was always on, and the relay hooked up to power. I disabled both of these but the car still would not run, so if they did have an effect, it was permanent.

Played with the timing a bit when I couldn't get it running, and I could almost get it to stay running when retarding the timing significantly. Can't say how far, but at least back to 0, possibly so far as -5 or -10 degrees. It was still very rough and shook the engine something fierce even at idle.

I should go back in my old logs and look at the PW, VE, and other variables during cranking/idle so as to make sure that what the car is doing now, makes sense with what it was doing back then. If all other variables are identical then perhaps something broke when I was digging around in the engine bay.


So I have a few things to test and a few things that need to be done.

I REALLY need to get a timing light and set the timing proper.
I REALLY need to get the fan running with the car so I can tune at temp.
I really should get an IAT sensor, eventually hardcoding to 20C won't cut it.
I need to post my configuration up here for people to look at and verify that everything is sane.
Verify current log against old logs, see if there is any difference.

Fred pointed out that a VE of ~26 is illogically low, and thus is likely a configuration issue. Double checking I found that my configuration is in fact incorrect. I never changed the injection events per cycle after I went from 2 to 8 injection events. I will make that change and play around, see if I can get the car to idle again.

It should be calculated, but in the mean time, user beware. It's typically something you configure exactly once and don't touch again, anyway.

so if they did have an effect, it was permanent.

ROFL :-)

Played with the timing a bit when I couldn't get it running, and I could almost get it to stay running when retarding the timing significantly. Can't say how far, but at least back to 0, possibly so far as -5 or -10 degrees. It was still very rough and shook the engine something fierce even at idle.

Sound like dizzy with some leads in wrong order. Did you take any off while messing with the fan?

If all other variables are identical then perhaps something broke when I was digging around in the engine bay.

See above.

So I have a few things to test and a few things that need to be done.

I REALLY need to get a timing light and set the timing proper.
I REALLY need to get the fan running with the car so I can tune at temp.
I really should get an IAT sensor, eventually hardcoding to 20C won't cut it.
I need to post my configuration up here for people to look at and verify that everything is sane.
Verify current log against old logs, see if there is any difference.

malcom2073 wrote:And of course I forgot to hit "save" to save my changes to RAM, so I lost them when I disconnected the ECU.

You missed one :-) Also, the IAT is a small deal. Generate yourself a linear lookup table from REAL extreme to REAL extreme, then you can see the genuine worst case effect, and get a softer more forgiving response from the pot. Ditch the pullup for this use or it'll skew things.

Fred.

Fred wrote:It should be calculated, but in the mean time, user beware. It's typically something you configure exactly once and don't touch again, anyway.

I'll fix it before continuing

Fred wrote:ROFL

I hope not :/

Fred wrote:Sound like dizzy with some leads in wrong order. Did you take any off while messing with the fan?

Fred wrote:See above.

No, verified and re-verified everything is hooked up.

Fred wrote:You missed one Also, the IAT is a small deal. Generate yourself a linear lookup table from REAL extreme to REAL extreme, then you can see the genuine worst case effect, and get a softer more forgiving response from the pot. Ditch the pullup for this use or it'll skew things.

I'm not using a pullup, It's hardcoded.