Mike's 87 Chevy Camaro 383ci engine (14th)

[Fred]

Even easier, then. Just adjust the config to match the weather. If you didn't use the conf override, and literally hacked in a value, you should fix that.

[malcom2073]

Do tell, where is the config override documented? I'd like to switch to using that.

Also, got it figured out. Turns out my 4 wires soldered in where only one wire should go, broke loose. So I was only running on 4 injectors instead of 8. Oops! I REALLY should get a proper case/connectors

[Fred]

Do tell, where is the config override documented? I'd like to switch to using that.

In initialisers dir, fixed block, obvious names.

Also, got it figured out. Turns out my 4 wires soldered in where only one wire should go, broke loose. So I was only running on 4 injectors instead of 8. Oops! I REALLY should get a proper case/connectors

Solder ONE wire to one pin, break out from there...

Glad you found it.

Fred.

[malcom2073]

Solder ONE wire to one pin, break out from there...

Glad you found it.

Fred.

Yeah, fixed for now... I don't think I want to actually drive the vehicle around until I get a proper mounting/connector solution. I'm ok with that though, since as it turns out I have body work I need to do to it before I get it tagged anyway.

I hooked up my electric fan and relay so I could tune idle at temperature, and I promptly started losing sync. Most likely a noise issue, as my 0-5V position sensor mounted on my distributor is untwisted unshielded wire, running along all my injector outputs . Also runs straight along a couple spark plug wires (in the stock harness). I have some 18AWG shielded twisted pair that I'll convert it over to, and see if that helps.

I think when I run the new shielded wire, I'll also run the MAP tube through the firewall rather than keeping it through my window as it is now run. Once that's done, the car is almost drivable besides the fragile wiring situation, the IAT workaround, and the lack of timing control.

[Fred]

LOL @ wiring sentences.

Don't drive it without timing control or you'll cook your exhaust! The IAT situation is fine, though, trust me...

However, fragile wiring can/will screw you, so you'll want to do something about that or you'll be getting towed home/fixing on side of road.

Fred.

[malcom2073]

I hooked up my electric fan and relay so I could tune idle at temperature, and I promptly started losing sync. Most likely a noise issue, as my 0-5V position sensor mounted on my distributor is untwisted unshielded wire, running along all my injector outputs . Also runs straight along a couple spark plug wires (in the stock harness). I have some 18AWG shielded twisted pair that I'll convert it over to, and see if that helps.

I think when I run the new shielded wire, I'll also run the MAP tube through the firewall rather than keeping it through my window as it is now run. Once that's done, the car is almost drivable besides the fragile wiring situation, the IAT workaround, and the lack of timing control.

I got the new shielded wire run about two months ago, and didn't get a chance to really play with it.

Finally got around to tinkering with it and got the car started, but it dies after running for about 2-3 minutes. Then it won't restart until I unplug the fan. The fan runs 100% of the time that the ignition is on.

So it looks like I still have some noise issues. I'm going to take apart the stock ECU, figure out how big of a resistor it had on that line, see if I can beef up the one on my jag board. If not, then maybe more shielding? Or maybe rerouting the wire away from the distributor cap (Hard to do since the connector connects directly below the cap, but I can move it a bit), assuming that the fan is just pushing me over the edge noise wise, and isn't the ONLY cause.

Is noise cumulative in any way? Two sources independently not enough to cause issues, but together they would?

[malcom2073]

Bunch of images of my new ECU case here: http://mikesshop.net/EMStudio/camaro/

3d printed it, so the case will last a bit longer in the footwell of my car, rather than risking people constantly stepping on it

[malcom2073]

The car ran on Sunday! Went go to start it, cranked it over for about 5 seconds, no dice. Did it again, still no dice. Got the laptop out and plugged it into the ECU, cranked again, had a tiny spark of life. Next time it cranked, it started right up and idled. It was a bit rough for about 30-45 seconds (hadn't run in 3-4 months), but it smoothed right out.

I've been driving my other Camaro around, totally stock 305ci engine (cept for another aftermarket ECU), and had forgotten how badass this 383 engine sounds. Due to new laws and regulations enacted earlier this year, I can now get this project back on the road (literally!). I should have it tagged in the next month or so and will attempt to start getting it tuned. I have idle and slightly off idle tuned, however it seems any large throttle movement causes it to go very lean for a moment, regardless of VE values. I'll have to get a better datalog of it and post it up here, likely I don't have the timing dialed in right and it's just falling on its face from that.

But hey, it runs, it runs good, and I'm a couple steps closer to having that car on the road!

Still no news on the fan interference side of things. The fan still causes the car to lose sync and stall. Next step: installing lower R resistors, and seeing if that helps.

[Fred]

In order:

Great! :-)

You should always be tuning only in steady state anyway. OF COURSE large throttle movements make it go lean. Don't do that. OK? Good.

Now:

0) Rebase your stuff onto the latest dev branch and include any table changes on top of it too. If you need help, make a racket at the person that made the hack/patch. Ensure the lambda map you're using makes sense. Perhaps go with a flat 13:1 or so for ease of data comprehension. Make the timing map look sensible and verify the timing matches the reality...
1) Don't tune unless *fully* warmed up. If your cooling system is dubious, keep an eye on ETE while tuning.
2) If that means you have to fix the fan issue, do so first. Don't waste your time....
3) Tune steady state no load with stable throttle up to near your redline (this is fine when warm, if the engine suffers, it was going to die anyway...) 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, etc.
4) 3 gave you a known good line of tune, each side of this you automatically changed to be similar to the line, because you know it will be. Now try to drive it, and correct it enough to get it driving smoothly provided your TPS movements are subtle.
5) 4 gave you a rough tune. Use the rough tune to obtain driving logs, use those logs to further tune your VE. Repeat N times until your logs show very little EGO-Lambda mismatch.
6) 5 gave you a steady state tune, congrats. Now add tip in enrich tuning to smooth out those throttle movements. This requires new code which requires release which requires other things. Abuse people to get it.
7) Do skids.

For the fan, put a decouple cap or two on the fan itself. And triple check the wire routing to ensure it makes any sense.

Fred.

[malcom2073]

Started working on 0. I got what I believe is a working decoder written (copied) based on the Even tooth decoder, and I've started to work on re-doing my config on top of the new freeems-vanilla/dev branch. I'll test on the car in the next few days, see if I can get it to run

I believe my cooling fan issue is actually my ignition module being bad when hot. I'm going to be purchasing a new one to replace it soon.

Once these two things are done and tested, I should be able to move on to tuning!