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Fred's "Hotel Hyundai" 1988 Stellar! (3rd) 
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I've placed a bid on a pump that's suitable (which an 044 or even a 910 certainly is not), and if I win it, that'll be OK. If I don't, and you know that the Audi unit is in good shape, then I'll be keen. Thank you for the offer!

I plan to configure and test PWM fuel pump control on my truck once I have it up and running again. That has an 044 and a 910 and I'm keen to stop the fuel-heating too. Also reduce alternator load. Noise reduction isn't on my mind, but will be a side effect.

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Fri Jan 10, 2014 9:38 pm
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Apparently the manifold has arrived, though I've not seen it yet. All in good time. Wideband bung is ready for the welder/hole saw. EFI soon, one way or another! :-p

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Last edited by Fred on Thu Jan 16, 2014 3:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

halved the whole and got a hole and a half



Mon Jan 13, 2014 7:53 pm
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I won the auction on this:

Image



It's 130lph, which is about double what I needed, but should regulate OK which is all I care about. Hopefully I'll have it in hand soon.

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Thu Jan 16, 2014 3:24 am
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Pump is in-hand, cleaned, tested (with toluene), runs quietly and builds pressure fine.

Manifold is in-hand, a bit rough, missing some things, but a good base for ITB goodness.

I intend to try to get it running TBI first of all, however that may be more hassle than just going straight to ITBs. We'll see, I guess.

I need to scab a fuel filter from a friend to use this, too. Sucking in clean toluene through a hose is one thing, using a 25 year old fuel tank and lines is something quite different.

Fred.

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Thu Jan 23, 2014 1:57 am
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The TPS on the TBI unit was pretty rough, two cables were nearly chafed through, and the third was, and had been hacked at to try to get a connection. Chock blocks were swinging from the two remaining "wires". So I filed away at the plastic until sufficient copper stuck up to saturate with solder. Now it's "fixed" and can be used for Alpha-N mode on TBI. Yay for me.

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Tue Feb 04, 2014 8:30 am
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Gasket surfaces of the lower manifold have been hand surfaced and various passages unblocked. One of the two "sensors" is a switch, and the other read 4k at this temperature, whatever it is. Tomorrow I'll waterblast it to remove the remaining crap and start stocktaking and listing and understanding all connections on it. Once done with that I'll move onto bringing the actual throttle unit up to the same spec.

Oh, and I got the Jaguar to the point of being ready to wire up! Mu ha ha ha.

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Wed Feb 05, 2014 7:55 am
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The Starion TBI Manifold

A post to document what a Starion Turbo lower manifold has on it.

Manifold Detailed Description

The overall setup is for two injectors to face directly down into the bowl below the throttle (through it). The bowl has a coolant bath below it such that it remains hot to evaporate the fuel and provide a reasonably even mixture. Various passages circulate coolant to achieve this task. The engine's coolant passes out at each end of the manifold and into the chamber below the thermostat (eventually), where it is regulated for temperature.

Main Flange List

What can be found on the main flange that attaches to the head?

  • 4 ports for airflow (2 pairs) :-p
  • 2 large coolant openings, one front, one rear
  • 2 small clean passages that connect together and emerge as one hole in the throttle flange
  • 1 medium sized and heavily corroded/blocked passage on the front end of the rear gasket surface that emerges at the small flange on the forward side of the outer end of the manifold
  • 1 distributor hole at the forward end of the front gasket surface
  • 9 holes for studs/bolts, four in the rear surface, five in the front surface

Throttle Flange List

What can be found on the big flange for the throttle?

  • 1 central hole for airflow :-p
  • 3 dead-end chambers clearly filled with coolant
  • 1 small hole connected to the two central holes in the main flanges
  • 1 small hole connected to the coolant chamber below the injection point/throttle hole
  • 4 bolt holes for attaching the throttle

Other Passage List

What other holes/fittings are there on the manifold?

  • The front most large coolant passage has the thermostat housing integrated into it.
  • The rear most large coolant passage has a large (~0.5") hose fitting coming out the top which goes to the heater core.
  • The above hose fitting has a secondary smaller (~0.25") hose fitting at 90* to the larger one. I believe this is routed to the side of the throttle body to allow hot coolant to keep it thawed.
  • The rear most runner has a largeish (~0.25") hose fitting for the brake booster vacuum source.
  • The centre of the rear most Y has another smaller fitting for another vacuum source of some type. Never drilled on carby manifold.
  • The centre of the throttle flange has a largish (~0.25") hose fitting probably for the PCV vacuum source. Similar one on the carby manifold does this. This one would not clear the old style fuel pump.
  • The rear side of the lower coolant chamber has a large (~0.5") hose barb cast into it to receive coolant from the heater core.
  • The front side of the lower coolant chamber and/or throttle flange has a small flange with two seemingly unrelated holes. The lower one connects to the dirty passage in the rear flange. The upper one connects to a set of 6 holes through the steel band that is pressed into the throttle opening hole. These two were both blocked off with a single plate and some orange RTV when I received it. The carby manifold has a valve here, and a small hose goes from a diaphragm to the small temperature controlled valve on the bottom of the tstat housing.

Sensor List

What stuff is fitted to the manifold?

  • 1 CHT sensor in the upper side position. Need to measure this or find a calibration for it online.
  • 1 coolant temperature based switch in the lower side position. Possibly feeding the ECU such that the ECU can be overridden for the fan relay output.
  • 1 random looking valve with two small oily air passages and a metal intrusion into the coolant in the bottom. Some sort of temperature based air metering? Perhaps idle control for cold? No idea. Present in carby setup, feeds the small flange with two fittings as blocked on the EFI manifold.

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Thu Feb 06, 2014 6:48 am
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Lower manifold fully deburred as of this evening! Done with files, 4" grinder, die-grinder, sand paper, etc. In the process, I couldn't help but clean up some steps and lips in the ports even though I know it could be worse if the head matched the old shape. We're talking very minor stuff, so likely it'll make no difference at all, but possibly it will make some difference, possibly good, possibly bad.

What I need to do is find some gasket material and cut myself a gasket or two. I also need to figure out the injector capacities, and prove that they actually work with power and fuel pressure applied. Easier said than done without the fitting that feeds fuel into the "rail" thingy. One of those might appear soon, though, or I'll have to make one. Both are 0.9 ohm low-z and both are marked A43-2 with no other obvious markings at all. I see various random flow figures out there, but nothing concrete. P&H or resistor pack. Hmmm.

Fred.

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Fri Feb 07, 2014 9:06 am
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Throttle body and injector rail/block cleaned and ready for action. This has exposed something else that I need: new orings for the injectors. With the corrosion removed, the injectors are a loose and very likely leaky fit into the rail/block. Still haven't got an injector driver solution sorted out, but still have a few ideas on what I can do. Some testing required, orings are the first step, injector drive/flow/dead-time testing is the next step.

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Sun Feb 09, 2014 5:36 am
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The local supercheap actually had the inlet manifold gasket, however not the throttle body gasket. I bought a roll of 0.8mm material to make that from. I made one part to perfectly fit the lower half, then lined it up on the upper half: holes. Unbelievably bad engineering by mitsubishi... So I have to do something before I can fit up the throttle to the manifold in any sort of permanent way. Options:

1) Make an adapter plate out of some 3mm sheet alloy to interface the two differently shaped, but once-paired parts and use two gaskets
2) Cross fingers and wait for leak
3) Use some RTV in the areas where it would otherwise leak and use one gasket
4) Build up the areas that do not currently overlap to create a surface for the gasket to seal on, then use one gasket
5) Kill myself and leave the FreeEMS project to Sean Keys to take over and engineer to a high quality standard

One of these things isn't an option.

Fred.

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n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
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Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:02 am
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