After ONLY six long torturous hours with my good mate Presto on skype in New Zealand, we have finally brought the Puma documentation up to the standard that it fucking should have been one year ago. A HUGE pat on the back is very much deserved by Preston for his hundreds of hours of work on this documentation. It's a shame that Marcos dropped the ball on Puma and that the project has gone virtually no-where in the last year. May I proudly present the final, for now, version of the Puma Spin 1 How-To guide:
http://puma.freeems.org/how.to.guide/spin1/
A couple of notes about this:
There are a couple of minor things missing such as a photograph or two, but nothing important. We'll update those as time and materials allow.
A few of the links don't work when I build it on this machine. I'm not sure why, but the files are available in git hub.
The finishing up guide with respect firmware is not particularly thorough or complete, however, if you can't follow it, you're an idiot. There is no wire-it-into-the-car guide yet, but that IS required due to how off-target the design was.
Additionally the through-hole guidelines are just that, feel free to customise these to your own physical mounting needs.
Just to reiterate, current firmware only supports 6 outputs, and you need to run jumpers to run any fuel channels.
If you want to commit, fork on github (Preston's) and commit and let us know.
Thank you once again, Preston, you're a fucking star!
Comments welcome!
Fred.
Puma How-To Released! :-)
Puma How-To Released! :-)
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- LQFP112 - Up with the play
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Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
Cheers to both of you, I will get back to work on the build this weekend.
Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
With regards Preston's USB PNP hack, I disagree with the way he did it. I think it should go on the top of the board upright (or folded over) using these three vias circled in black. The black on the corner of the FTDI is a cut to the trace on the top side assuming that your FTDI was already installed, and the green that is thicker is a join to the top of the trace after scratching off the solder mask.
Using the stepper pad next to the top via for the power jumper wire is a good idea too.
Take your pick, this is my style FWIW as running on my Puma as used to run three engines and every day on my desk.
Fred.
Using the stepper pad next to the top via for the power jumper wire is a good idea too.
Take your pick, this is my style FWIW as running on my Puma as used to run three engines and every day on my desk.
Fred.
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- LQFP112 - Up with the play
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Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
It looks like the FTDI stuff is missing.
Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
Your right it is missing! not sure how I missed that, will add it Thanks John.johntramp wrote:It looks like the FTDI stuff is missing.
In regards to Fred's post on his PNP mod, it can be done this way and I'm sure there is may other ways it can be done.
There are two main reasons I did the mod the way it is on the how to.
- The stepper driver isn’t covered, so doesn't require being repowered (Green line from D82 up to the top black circle) after the cut under the FTDI has been made. One less ugly 'fixup' wire.
- It's easier to mount the transistor on the bottom side where you don’t have to go around components. There also is no exposed pads that the mod can accidently come into contact with.
Preston.
Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
Strongly disagree that it's easier on the bottom as there are no components to go around on the top, it's damn near a normal to92 footprint the way I did it and recommend doing it. You could skip the jumper and via and put the third leg directly onto the trace right next to the FTDI where the cut is made too. The bottom side mod looks messy and ugly and difficult and damage prone to me, though either and 10 other ways will work.
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Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
Updated both repositories and the website with some fixes and clarifications by johntramp and myself. There is a plain/plane mistake in there, apparently, Evie should fix it if she gets a chance.
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Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
FYI, Preston got a new job and fucked off half way down the country to some dialup connection for 2 months. We'll miss him, RIP.
In other news, there are still things missing from this howto, though nothing major. I think John is going to give it a touch up soon for the next silly prick to use :-)
John also asked me about power/ground, unsure if that's documented, if not, it should be, so here are three fresh pics of my dusty PumaS1, click to get 1280x1024 res:
This is the CPU/sensor ground in. It should be attached to some good wires that go to the battery or block or head. I prefer the head.
This is where you feed in 12V to the board. If you want to split your BRV signal, ask Preston. It's not too important, because nothing dumps into 12V. I use the bench connection to bridge the two, and two wires go away to the db37 on the other side in parallel.
These three are suitable pickup points for the injector grounds. I used three. You could use 2 or 8, but the more the merrier. Note this ground should be independent to the block/head/battery. Also note, I *think* it's shared with the ground for the ignitor outputs. This could be why I never got that sweet Volvo running in California. Beware. If you have troubles, upgrade this ground.
John, you may use these to update the docs if it helps.
Fred.
In other news, there are still things missing from this howto, though nothing major. I think John is going to give it a touch up soon for the next silly prick to use :-)
John also asked me about power/ground, unsure if that's documented, if not, it should be, so here are three fresh pics of my dusty PumaS1, click to get 1280x1024 res:
This is the CPU/sensor ground in. It should be attached to some good wires that go to the battery or block or head. I prefer the head.
This is where you feed in 12V to the board. If you want to split your BRV signal, ask Preston. It's not too important, because nothing dumps into 12V. I use the bench connection to bridge the two, and two wires go away to the db37 on the other side in parallel.
These three are suitable pickup points for the injector grounds. I used three. You could use 2 or 8, but the more the merrier. Note this ground should be independent to the block/head/battery. Also note, I *think* it's shared with the ground for the ignitor outputs. This could be why I never got that sweet Volvo running in California. Beware. If you have troubles, upgrade this ground.
John, you may use these to update the docs if it helps.
Fred.
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
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The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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- QFP80 - Contributor
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Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
I'm a pleb and I followed these instructions pretty well so far.
Couple of weird bits, I vote for Preston's PNP and I had both options to run with, lol.
Perhaps my vote is a bad thing.
The power up instructions were a flop for me but Fred has those issues addressed with above comments, can't wait to actually follow through with them, lol. Then I'll have an opinion on the through hole stuff :p
Sorry I didn't post/action the small omissions I came across, useless of me.
Perhaps I'll remedy that at some point
Thanks to Preston and Fred
Sorry if I omitted anyone else due thanks!
Couple of weird bits, I vote for Preston's PNP and I had both options to run with, lol.
Perhaps my vote is a bad thing.
The power up instructions were a flop for me but Fred has those issues addressed with above comments, can't wait to actually follow through with them, lol. Then I'll have an opinion on the through hole stuff :p
Sorry I didn't post/action the small omissions I came across, useless of me.
Perhaps I'll remedy that at some point
Thanks to Preston and Fred
Sorry if I omitted anyone else due thanks!
Re: Puma How-To Released! :-)
Another update: Preston recommended 100mA current limit on the power supply for initial testing. This was a bad call and not a good idea. My unit draws 98.8mA running normally. Thus inrush currents from caps and start up loads that aren't normally present could keep it from ever powering up. BangBug reported 1.2V on the CPU 5V line with 12V 100mA limited supply attached. I suggest 200mA might be a more appropriate limit and allow the thing to start up properly.
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FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
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The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!