Nah, that was when it came off the oven, I had put too much solder paste hoping to see most of it evaporating. That didn't happen.Fred wrote:Jesus Christ man! You're rough :-)nitrousnrg wrote:Finally I have my camera back:
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/3006/dsci0036c.jpg
Instead of assembling mine, perhaps you could put all the components in a plastic bag and post them to me. Then I could sprinkle them on and drive back and forward over it a few times to attach them. Am I being too harsh? LOL. You might want to customise the init.c file to disable all the output pins and avoid frying your CPU straight off... At least some of the outputs are pulsing on and off all the time. You better hope its not a bridged one.
The final result was a working, but quite overheated IC due to the copper strip used to remove the extra solder (can't remember the name, it was 4 letter and had a 'w' or 'k')
It turns out the reg doesn't stand 125°C. 125 is the max junction temperature. Also, my ultra cheapy chinese multimeter measured 4.9v and I didn't like that.jharvey wrote:About the reg, why the change? Is it making heat or is it noisy?
Why remove the fusing? I was tempted to suggest we add some overvoltage protection. A common approach is to use an SCR fired by a chip like MC3423P, such that if you have an OV condition, it shorts and blows the upstream fuse.
I'd like to put a simple varistor, and move the fuses with the rest of the car fuses. Or put a different kind of fuse, what we have there looks odd to me (not automotiv-ish).
I hardly doubt it.does BDM offer a similar test layer?
I'm using rework solder paste, but the first thing I have to do isWhat solder paste are you using?
1. Put less paste
2. Repair the temperature sensing circuit, I'm working blind with the little oven. That circuit isn't working because I connected backwards the supply cables (yay!)