DIYEFI.org Forum

Here's a quick teaser of my 99 Grand Am. I'm building a harness right now on github. Here's some work with the leader of this circus fred. I've been asked to leave the devs alone for a week so y'all should remember that I'm doing my best by working on markdown. Anyway since this is my daily driver and I commute 65 miles a day, a low coolant signal is more important to me than boost so I'm going to work on auxiliary stuff in a feature branch.

ooh I've been thinking about wireless or universal serial bus for the auxilary sensors, that would work if we could create a marked channel in the serial interface using the usb protocol.

Edit: Due to following recommendation, looking into CAN.

Alright talked with sean, Going to pick up a front exhaust manifold and see what it looks like hooked up to fabricate a new crossmember into a turbo with x gate. Did I get that right? Heading to junk yard.

ROFL!

What do you want your low coolant switch to actually do?

If you want to network on the car, better to code CAN.

Fred.

I was able to find my car down to the submodel and picked the harness, exhaust, and some connectors. The low coolant signal is going to cause a light on the 'dash' silly.

Additionally I was able to set up my domain on github so the project is hosted here

The harness has all but the 24x signal labeled now. I'm thinking about replacing the 1X signal and making it be the primary. I have an alternate tach connector that might come in handy. Going to have to trace cables with my fluke toner.

Tranny LOL indeed :-)

Tools: Fluke intelli toner signal generator and toner. Fry's digital multimeter.

Technique: Needed

Task: Tracing wires (about 24) within an OEM harness.

Online forums with people who have done this type of work, priceless.

I had my first successful continuity test this morning. I used a toothbrush and mild detergent mix to clean up the wires that connect to the harness that plugs into the sensor. I was then able to identify the wire as red with white stripe. In the ECU bundle that was easy to spot. Confirmed with multimeter. Found the second wire for the CAM position sensor and the two wires are now taped together, need to be labeled. The third wire is plain black and there are a lot of these wires in both the ECU and the Fusebox hookup. I'm assuming that the CAM sensor is powered using this wire, but more research is necessary to determine.

Should I get a breadboard and hook these up to it?

Just determined based on this DIS Diagram that I may have 3 unique position sensors as advised by Matt, a GA tuner. The 3X sensor plugs directly into the DIS so that leaves the 24X and the Cam sensor.

Supplies trip, got a breadboard for the sensors and some 150 proof rum to keep things interesting. Additionally, I'm considering getting hooked into alldata diy for $25 if it has all the info I need that would be a lot cheaper than getting a service manual. I can hear the drag racers about 2 miles away from inside my house this afternoon.

ROFL @ Rum! :-)

3 times position sensors = 7 tooth sync thingy, single tooth sync proper, and 24 pulse output from DIS, I think. Andy will correct me if wrong/confused/dazed.

Fred.

Here's me building the board and verify continuity as I go. I tinned the wire and it fits snug in the breadboard.

Fred: there are 3 distinct position sensors, can you imagine?

Also, I have the distinct taste of gasoline in my mouth--must be the rum. And now I'm drunk after 2 shots. I'm thinking about going back to planning mode.