Holden HQ One tonne ute

[shameem]

Usually most wiring setups have the injector power from the MS power terminals... Which means any flybacks or disturbances first get to MS before reaching the battery...

[Fred]

Jesus, I sure hope you are wrong about that. If you are right about "most" then most people have seriously wrong wiring. The injector supply should come straight from an appropriate relay switched source, DEFINITELY not the ms power terminals. That is very very wrong.

Fred.

[longracing]

Well here's a pic of the bits.

I bead-blasted the manifold yesterday & it looks as good as new now.
I'm going to get a bit more metal welded on before I machine the injector bungs.

I did think the loss of tach signal for several seconds could be a thermal issue but was trying to figure out which parts would have thermal protection built-in, probably not the opto-coupler and the hall-sensor is rated to 150 Celcius. And as mention before, none of this happened when it was running ignition only.

I do have a seperate wires, fuse, relay feeding the injectors but looking at the schematics it looks like the fly-back goes through back through the MS power feed. Maybe this is what shameem was thinking of?
I'm not very happy with the low-impedance injector handling (I think they are about 1.6 to 1.8ohm each) and will be glad to change to the high impedance injectors.

Rego is coming up in a couple of weeks as well

[Fred]

looking at the schematics it looks like the fly-back goes through back through the MS power feed. Maybe this is what shameem was thinking of?

Ahh, if that's what he meant then it was communication break down :-) There may be a way to solve that, but it's dicey/tricky to do (making cuts deep into a multi layer board). Otherwise the only solution is a large power cable through more than one pin (my ms2 uses 8ga and 2 db37 pins for this reason) and possibly some extra caps on board. You could also order a driver box from jbperf.com and move the low Z control away from the sensitive stuff.

[longracing]

I've finished modifying the manifold and fabricating the fuel-rails.


Here it is. Will be using 3" of carb spacer so the kickdown lever clears the fuel rail.

This is the fuel-pressure regulator from a Holden VS Commodore. I made a small adapter to take it from the 14mm diameter (Regulator size) to 16mm diameter (fuel rail hole) so it bolts straight in the end.


I hope to start fitting it tomorrow and have it running by the end of the week.

[dealwithit]

thats some beautiful work on the injectors and fuel rails man!

[longracing]

Thanks.

I've almost finished fitting it and modifying the harness, I'll post the picks when it's done.

I'm going to do an article on a few different ways to manufacture fuel rails once it's running. Having my daily driver out of action has been holding me back from getting a few things done. keeps me out of trouble...

[longracing]

While I was at it I decided to switch the thermofan from one 12" to twin 10" thermos. That's about a 50% increase in cooling volume and area.


Here I started to re-work the wiring harness.


And this is the finished product.


With the spacers in place the throttle body is getting close to the bonnet, it will need a hole to get a filter in place.


After finishing the harness and setting the timing the engine fired first go. I've only had a quick play with the tune around idle but it already starts easier, idles smoother and responds a lot quicker.

[longracing]

Finally got some dyno time.

I put clean plugs in the night before and found two plugs were a bit white. When we tested the injectors at the work shop only six out of eight were working properly. A bit of a clean and flow fixed them up.

It was a great experience at getting the tuning right. This was a brake dyno so the car could be held at a certain speed (relative revs on the map) and then the fuel map adjusted at different MAP settings. Couldn't get the low RPM/High MAP area because of the torque converter, still working on that to get rid of a stumble/backfire in that area. The throttle linkage doesn't help that either. I might have to make an eccentric pulley and cable to actuate it.

I also got around to cutting a hole in the bonnet (it was pretty rough to begin with) so now I can fit an air-cleaner to the engine. This pick is with a 14" x 2" element, it now has 14" x 3". I used a hole-saw for the corners and a thin cutting disk on an angle grinder to cut through the sheet and frame. Might get some pinch-weld to neaten the edges up.


I used an A9X style bonnet scoop to cover it. Have you ever driven around with the morning sun shining off a nice new chrome air-cleaner into your eyes?
I gave it a quick wet-sand then painted it all black.

Now I just have to paint the rest of the car....

I still can't decide on a colour.

[sry_not4sale]

There is only one color - black, and shades therof.