boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

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boostedcabbage
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by boostedcabbage »

Update!

I figured I should have a degree wheel instead of paper substitutes.

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Pistons cleaned up.

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Intake manifold flange surface wasn't so great (buggered up), so I resurfaced it.

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Piston to valve radial clearance is way too close.

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After some medium butchering with a carbide rotary tool and some sand paper rolls, there is about 0.070" clearance.

Exhaust:

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Intake:

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boostedcabbage
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by boostedcabbage »

Ready for cams! Almost. Some of the cam cap threads aren't healthy. I'm going to increase the bolt size. I could use threaded inserts, but there's already 2 that I've increased the size on, so I might as well just do the rest the same way.

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Fred
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by Fred »

Using threaded inserts has some advantages:

Caps remain unmodified, less work
Stretch is more, so tension more reliable, more chance of staying tight
Grip in the alloy is relatively larger compared to the head, less chance of more stripping
No possible clearance issues or flange bolt seating issues

In either case, good work and thanks for posting :-)
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boostedcabbage
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by boostedcabbage »

Cam cap bolts drilled/tapped.

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Engine timed. Valve cover painted. The paint can cap was red, but apparently it's going to be orange. Oh well.

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boostedcabbage
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by boostedcabbage »

I'm going to fill the motor mounts as they are torn and rather useless currently.

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Apparently people have used products like these with success. I'm going to give it a shot. I don't know what the shore hardness is, but I expect it to be a little less than 3M Window Weld.

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I really didn't like that orange/red valve cover, so I painted it again. First with a metallic base, and then PURPLE!

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boostedcabbage
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by boostedcabbage »

After some further research, the shore hardness of these is as follows:

3M WIndow Weld (was an option i considered) - 55-60a
Loctite PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive - 90a
Loctite PL Roof & Flashing Sealant - 28-32a

The roof sealant is like a rubber band in hardness. Construction adhesive it is.
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Fred
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by Fred »

1) My truck cab mounts are filled, used windscreen urethane sealant that I had for free in those days, worked OK but never fully stuck to the rubber, so relies on physical shape to remain in place
2) Plus one on the orange/red, love the purple, nice work, looks really sweet now, the weird shape adds to it instead of just looking bad :-)
No 3, off to bed.
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FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
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boostedcabbage
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by boostedcabbage »

This was hiding under some shiny paint.

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I suppose I'll have to add some steel.
boostedcabbage
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by boostedcabbage »

Made a little progress on this rust area.

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Some more working of the steel required.
boostedcabbage
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Re: boostedcabbage's 1998 Dodge Neon

Post by boostedcabbage »

New snail arrived today! (Borg Warner 363)

Compressor: 63mm / 87mm
Turbine: 76mm / 68mm
0.88 AR - Open T4

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