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Fred's 1987 16v B234F Powered Volvo 240 GL Sedan 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm
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Location: Home sweet home!
Utterly failed to do any of the above. May get a little done tonight, but not likely. Tomorrow perhaps? Or Friday?

Things got busy. Saturday is R33 time. Sunday is Carib pick up time (scoring a 7AFE to build a KP60 engine from).

Posting here today instead to note that I stole the battery out of it for the Lantis! Lantis is now very usable. This is not at all, anyway, with the super nasty knock coming out of it.

I think pulling the old B230K out of it ASAP and working on the DOHC swap as a stealth power-up and fix-up is the winner. That engine just requires one custom mount made cleanly/stealthily to look stock. It also requires an EFI fuel system setup, and an ECU, but that's easy enough.

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Wed Nov 29, 2017 7:57 am
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<Lots of stuff, some tweeted, little posted>

Yesterday:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4479719425
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 6130027520
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 1564144641
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 6322215936

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Today:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 6527233024
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7636308992
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4418074626

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TODO: pics Done.

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FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
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Mon Jan 08, 2018 1:51 pm
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Chopped the catalytic converters off the exhaust yesterday evening: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7212972032

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So they're ready to cash in and now from the far end of the driveway you can't see any mess, just the Suzuki. So less likely to get in trouble because of stray BMW parts.

_________________
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FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
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Wed Jan 10, 2018 1:40 am
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Got some more hacking up done last night:

  • Fuel tank out
  • Fuel tank drained
  • Fuel lines/fittings/tubes/bottles/buffers out/off
  • Exhaust sectioned into three pieces

Tweets/pics:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 8241275904
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7898146816
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 8664786944
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 3764740096
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7610119168
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5606582277
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 9991214080

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So now it's about as compact as it can be, I need to figure out what to do with the diff and suspension side of things and then ship the scrap off to the scrap yard and be rid of it before it causes me landlord drama. Hmmmmmm, what to do.

_________________
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FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:00 pm
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WAY behind on updates... BMW is gone except front cut with windscreen, pedals, trans tunnel. Subframe, diff, hubs, arms, etc dumped on our land.

Tonight:

retrieved it from the street
5 hours work and the carby and manifolds and pipes and wires and so forth are all off, head is off, and block surface cleaned up ready for test fit of 16v head.

tomorrow:

test fit head
remove sohc bottom end
test fit bare DOHC block
make engine mount for bare DOHC block
remove bare DOHC block
extract B234F from garage
fit B234F into 240 sedan

Next weekend, wiring, fuel system.

At least, that's the plan.

_________________
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FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Fri Feb 16, 2018 12:16 pm
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Progress on Saturday/Sunday with some help from a mate:

Fred wrote:
test fit head
remove sohc bottom end
test fit bare DOHC block
make engine mount for bare DOHC block
remove bare DOHC block

extract B234F from garage
fit B234F into 240 sedan
wiring, fuel system.


Pretty close! :-D

Looking forward to later this week when we're clear of possible
landlord visits and I can push toward having it swapped in by end
of Sunday and awaiting fuel system/wiring, or not waiting for it!

_________________
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FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:58 pm
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Progress on Saturday/Sunday:

Fred wrote:
test fit head
remove sohc bottom end
test fit bare DOHC block
make engine mount for bare DOHC block
remove bare DOHC block

extract B234F from garage
fit B234F into 240 sedan

wiring, fuel system.


VERY close! :-D

Neighbour is away for 3 days so I didn't have to tow it out to the street/wolves last night.

That gives me 3 days to complete everything and make it run. Hopefully. Or at least get it close.

Still not clear of landlord visit, but gotta do what you gotta do.

Teaser:

Image

_________________
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:06 pm
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Tonight I:

Jacked the front end way up in the air for ease of working beneath it (more difficult in front of it, though)
Cleaned the factory 240 rear trans mount, bolts, bracket, nuts.
Checked rear trans mount for alignment and tightened both nuts.
Tightened the three exhaust to manifold nuts
Modified the brace bracket for a longer slot and tightened that down bottom and front side
Tightened one of the ATF cooling lines, before realising that reaching the other one would be near impossible after doing so
Painted the steering collapse mechanism with matte black zinc primer to hide very light surface rust
Checked TPS for usefulness - it's just a switch, need to find a replacement, possibly from an 850
Realised that the throttle cable and brake booster vacuum hose are both too short
Looked at reinstalling the driveshaft bolts/nuts, but damage too excessive on them, need to find others from caravan or buy replacements
Slid three usable bolts into driveshaft to hold it up against trans output flange, and finger tightened one nyloc nut against one of them (other two just loose as dowels for now)

And I felt like I got very little done! :-) Also went and bought a bunch of shelves, and started to put one set together, a bit wrongly.

Stuff that really needs doing ASAP:

0) Tighten second ATF cooling line, even if it means removing the one I already did
1) Find driveshaft bolts/nuts and install or repair the existing ones and reuse
2) Reconnect OD button wire
3) Flip shifter linkage and connect up to the stick
4) Drain/check both engine and trans - suspect both empty, refill and add new filter
6) Check LHS lower mount bolts for tightness
7) Remove dizzy/carby stuff from near battery
8) Wire up starter motor and alternator
9) Clean and install flame trap

And later:

1) Find usable TPS and/or throttle with TPS
2) Figure out which COP units to use on it
3) Get throttle cable working, somehow
4) Extend/replace brake booster hose
5) Make a dizzy hole bung retainer plate

To buy tomorrow:

Rubber mallet
Dead blow hammer
Extra rubber feet for smaller shelves if available

Stuff we had to do:

Mod LHS mount
Fabricate RHS mount
Remove distributor completely
Remove fan and fan clutch assembly for clearance

Stuff that might have helped:

Remove AC pump from lower bracket

_________________
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FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Mon Feb 26, 2018 12:15 pm
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Fred wrote:
Tonight I (all the crossed out items):

0) Tighten second ATF cooling line, even if it means removing the one I already did
1) Find driveshaft bolts/nuts and install or repair the existing ones and reuse
2) Reconnect OD button wire
3) Flip shifter linkage and connect up to the stick

4) Drain/check both engine and trans - suspect both empty, refill and add new filter
6) Check LHS lower mount bolts for tightness
7) Remove dizzy/carby stuff from near battery
8) Wire up starter motor and alternator
9) Clean and install flame trap

And later:

1) Find usable TPS and/or throttle with TPS
2) Figure out which COP units to use on it
3) Get throttle cable working, somehow
4) Extend/replace brake booster hose
5) Make a dizzy hole bung retainer plate

To buy tomorrow:

Rubber mallet
Dead blow hammer
Extra rubber feet for smaller shelves if available
- not available


Also:

Forgot about: bracket and clamp for ATF cooling lines - DONE.
Had to adjust the length of the shift rod (possibly bent a bit)
Removed aircon pipe/hose from the 940 wagon/caravan
Finger-tight installed lines for aircon onto pump
Finger-tight installed pressure line from PS pump to rack
Properly installed feed line to PS pump from reservoir
Cleaned up the PS reservoir bracket nearly good enough to put back in

IE, *everything* behind the firewall is ready to rumble and I progressed the engine bay stuff a bit, too. Trans shifter works for park vs neutral again. Exhaust is ready.

TODO: Plumbing, wiring, bracketry, radiator, battery, ECU, ignition, fuel system. Just this away from driving my first 16v 240 :-D

Uncrossed out items above still pending, though I did some research into COP units and requested an 850 throttle from a friend and will try to research throttle cable this evening.

Priorities tomorrow evening:

Flame trap install
Idle valve hose
Oil in and filter on
Drain last ATF from trans, refill with X litres, 4 or so should be enough to prevent damage prior to warming up engine later
Starter, alternator, dash temp sensor wiring - find engine loom? merge with car loom?
Plugs out and crank to oil pressure, plugs back in (if clean enough, should be)
Remove/hide/pull back choke cable
Extend and connect brake booster hose
Tuck cross-car loom back into clips
Finish cleaning bracket, clean guard, reattach with grease between chassis/bracket and on screws
Reconnect ground straps to new engine

And more! Or less... :-)

_________________
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Tue Feb 27, 2018 10:14 am
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Fred wrote:
Tonight I (all the crossed out items):

4) Drain/check both engine and trans - suspect both empty, refill and add new filter
6) Check LHS lower mount bolts for tightness and torque up if required
8) Wire up starter motor and alternator (only finger tight so far)
9) Clean and install flame trap

And later:

1) Find usable TPS and/or throttle with TPS
2) Figure out which COP units to use on it
3) Get throttle cable working, somehow
4) Extend/replace brake booster hose
5) Make a dizzy hole bung retainer plate

Flame trap install
Idle valve hose secured
Oil in and filter on
Drain last ATF from trans, refill with X litres, 4 or so should be enough to prevent damage prior to warming up engine later
Starter, alternator, dash temp sensor wiring - find engine loom? merge with car loom?
Plugs out and crank to oil pressure, plugs back in (if clean enough, should be)
Remove/hide/pull back choke cable
Extend and connect brake booster hose
Tuck cross-car loom back into clips
Finish cleaning bracket, clean guard, reattach with grease between chassis/bracket and on screws
Reconnect ground straps to new engine (did one, not the other)


Items not crossed out not done and on tomorrow's TODO list.

Also investigated vacuum hose situations and fuel hose situations:

Vacuum hose for brake booster required, and MAP sensor required and Flame Trap required.
vs
Stock hookups for brake booster, internal pneumatics, vacuum canister, and flame trap available.

Therefore large internal pneumatics port on front top of intake available.
And medium vacuum canister port below throttle body/plenum available.
And need to find the hose from the plenum to flame trap, or use blue silicone, probably this.
Hmm, may need a pneumatic feed to the engine bay for the 240, too? Not sure.

Also reattached starter power feed, detached and removed some vacuum solenoid on the firewall, flushed out the coolant expansion tank, rinsed coolant from the front welded in cross member, scrubbed the engine bay extensively, scrubbed the power steering reservoir, removed the stock ign leads from the plugs, removed and cleaned the battery tray unit, figured out hose purchasing requirements (fuel and booster), and probably other stuff.

_________________
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Wed Feb 28, 2018 11:52 am
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