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Fred's 1987 Volvo 240 GL Sedan - Notes and Debate 
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There is trivially easy access to both coil/ignitor input and the ground reference for it.

The VR sensor wires are also very easy to get to, but a little different from the other two cars, as the sensor also is.

Battery and MAP hose and ignitor input are all within about 200mm of each other, and the VR line is only about 600mm away from there.

This should be very easy.

I guess I'll make the code change tonight, and do the wiring in the morning. It should be warmed up and bouncing off a rev limiter by early afternoon.

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Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:53 am
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Code:
0000000000000000000000000000000000000000 d372467dec2f67d56adad7994027dec6160f5efd Fred Cooke <> 1472797626 +1200    branch: Created from master
d372467dec2f67d56adad7994027dec6160f5efd c0cc2742f413b06febddcdb85201051dab504bab Fred Cooke <> 1472800617 +1200    commit: Add Bendix/Rex1/EZ-115K/Renault/Volvo combustion sync style missing tooth configuration option and specific configurations for 44-1-1 and 60-1-1-1 setups.


1472800617 - 1472797626 = 2991 seconds, or 49.85 minutes! Done deal. Just config and wiring (5 or 6, lol) to go, really. Too easy.

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Fri Sep 02, 2016 8:36 am
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Definitely swap over those sways.

As far as the seat swap, rather than reskin the passenger and put it in the wagon's driver position, swap the foam out instead.
The seats are handed, and if you are planning moving the upholstery, it's the same job.

Before you crush, grab the hardware on the trailer hitch. The bolts and spacers there are worth a few bucks, if it's stock Volvo, at least.

Check the casting number on the head on the B230K. I suspect it will end in 631. If this is the case, it is the chamberless Heron head, and probably won't work with the pistons in a conventional block.

Kudos on going for #40 with it. Volvo is pretty over-represented in the list.

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Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:09 pm
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Good point re the seat, I'm sure I would have sussed it out in the end :-D I think the spring panel thingy might be rooted too. And while the leather is off there's a little bit of restitching to do to it.

Before I crush I'll grab *everything* :-) We'll see what happens. There are a bunch of small rust patches in random places. I suspect most of them are a case of wire brush and seal with something thick, but if I find any that say "needs to be bogged/welded" then I may give up on the plan. Rust will be the thing that stops this getting a WOF, or not.

The spring/shock/sway setup in it is great. I like the way it feels. I can't swap the sways without *buying* front bushings, though, and that's not an option right now.

Not sure if the trailer is factory supplied, but I doubt it. The other two I have from the 940 and on the 240 wagon are not. It's certainly different to the 240 wagon, though.

Re the head, you're right, and have foiled my optimistic and cunning plan to waste my life away on a crappy car:

Image






So instead I'll have to waste my life away on other crappy cars and the FreeEMS project. :-p

I'll take #40 with it anyway (if I can!) and we'll see where things go from there. B234F swap with cross member/mount mods, maybe. Not sure.

Thank you very much for sharing your wisdom, it's much appreciated :-)

Fred.

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Fri Sep 02, 2016 11:53 pm
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A quick image search revealed the flat chamber and the piston-valve kissing/snuggling that would occur if you attempted to use it:

Image

I stole this image fair and square, click for the same file at the original URL.

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Sat Sep 03, 2016 12:01 am
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Next up config! But before I do that, I'm going to calculate the decoder offset from reference data. Never bothered to do this before. Prefer to wear out starter motors finding it empirically. :-p

What we know:

1) Green book for B230K setup: http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbooks/7 ... mplete.pdf
2) Thread explaining how to set offset: viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1523
3) Tacit knowledge that the first tooth/edge (in this case, gap!) after the gap (in this case big tooth!) is considered 0/TDC if the offset is zero.

Green book shows and says that TDC is 90 degrees after the end of the long tooth:

Image




IE, the wheel in the picture is rotating anti clockwise.

Now, because the wheel is a missing hole wheel and the wiring will be backward to normal, the events will be centred over the holes, not the teeth. These events are 8.18 degrees apart, aside from double for the missing hole. So according to the diagram, then, TDC is ~2.05 degrees before 90 after our natural zero. IE, if we fired a spark at zero with an offset of zero, we'd be firing it ~87.95 BTDC instead of TDC.

Our decoder offset is 0-179.98 degrees, or anything less than 180. According to the docs above, we'd need to subtract our angle from 0 to get the correct offset. 0 = 180, so 180 - 87.95 = 92.05, except that our system only goes down to 0.02 degrees and I rounded the original figure up from 2.045 recurring, so the best number to use is 92.04.

I can imagine that these docs may be a little inaccurate in their wording/decription re where TDC is after the long tooth, depending on the circuitry, however this should at least get us fired up and running and be within a few degrees of correct.

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Sat Sep 03, 2016 1:22 am
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Config built and distributed, firmware ready to load! Now to find the connectors, then warm it up and wire them in! :-D

Then it's just rip firmware, load firmware, fire up emstudio, and turn the key! :-o

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Sat Sep 03, 2016 2:15 am
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On page 225/PDF209 the pin out of the coil is shown.

Green is said to be the input to the ignitor, but on this car the same pin is bright orange - which is what I was expecting to be the input. Off to cut and splice it.

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Sat Sep 03, 2016 4:08 am
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After many attempts, and many near successes, the carby has gotten the better of me, and I've all but given up.

Depending on the efficiency of Rob in Florida there may be some opportunity tomorrow to sort it out.

One issue is that I used the hotel timing which is 0 at cranking, climbing up as RPM rises. I think this might suck for the higher resolution signal on this car. I think what I've been seeing is insufficient timing to get it up over a certain speed, or enough to do that and too much once it's there. I think. IE, artificially jacking up the offset to produce good cranking timing, only to have it be stupidly advanced once it fires. Will have to look at some logs.

Also, I appear to be totally wrong about this being 22-1, it fully appears to have a clean 22-2 signal. Not sure how I cocked that up. Seems that I did, though.

The rods, bearings, head gasket, and starter motor are all in agony :-D Good thing it's a POS that I don't care much about. Will have to switch the 4 signals back to the factory ECU and give it a run tomorrow.

Darkish now, 6pm, and the neighbour is home and has been listening to me cranking periodically for hours. Not ideal. Was hoping he'd be out.

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Sat Sep 03, 2016 7:14 am
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Had another try today, and eventually gave up, this being part of the reason:

Image





Jeff, if you're bored, feel free to populate a post with the half a dozen pics/links I uploaded for this thread. Otherwise I will later in the week.

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Sun Sep 04, 2016 12:00 pm
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