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Fred's 1987 16v B234F Powered Volvo 240 GL Sedan
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Fred
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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Utterly failed to do any of the above. May get a little done tonight, but not likely. Tomorrow perhaps? Or Friday?
Things got busy. Saturday is R33 time. Sunday is Carib pick up time (scoring a 7AFE to build a KP60 engine from).
Posting here today instead to note that I stole the battery out of it for the Lantis! Lantis is now very usable. This is not at all, anyway, with the super nasty knock coming out of it.
I think pulling the old B230K out of it ASAP and working on the DOHC swap as a stealth power-up and fix-up is the winner. That engine just requires one custom mount made cleanly/stealthily to look stock. It also requires an EFI fuel system setup, and an ECU, but that's easy enough.
_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Wed Nov 29, 2017 7:57 am |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Mon Jan 08, 2018 1:51 pm |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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Chopped the catalytic converters off the exhaust yesterday evening: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7212972032 So they're ready to cash in and now from the far end of the driveway you can't see any mess, just the Suzuki. So less likely to get in trouble because of stray BMW parts.
_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Wed Jan 10, 2018 1:40 am |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Mon Jan 15, 2018 8:00 pm |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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WAY behind on updates... BMW is gone except front cut with windscreen, pedals, trans tunnel. Subframe, diff, hubs, arms, etc dumped on our land.
Tonight:
retrieved it from the street 5 hours work and the carby and manifolds and pipes and wires and so forth are all off, head is off, and block surface cleaned up ready for test fit of 16v head.
tomorrow:
test fit head remove sohc bottom end test fit bare DOHC block make engine mount for bare DOHC block remove bare DOHC block extract B234F from garage fit B234F into 240 sedan
Next weekend, wiring, fuel system.
At least, that's the plan.
_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Fri Feb 16, 2018 12:16 pm |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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Progress on Saturday/Sunday with some help from a mate: Fred wrote: test fit head remove sohc bottom end test fit bare DOHC block make engine mount for bare DOHC block remove bare DOHC block extract B234F from garage fit B234F into 240 sedan wiring, fuel system.
Pretty close! :-D Looking forward to later this week when we're clear of possible landlord visits and I can push toward having it swapped in by end of Sunday and awaiting fuel system/wiring, or not waiting for it!
_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:58 pm |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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Progress on Saturday/Sunday: Fred wrote: test fit head remove sohc bottom end test fit bare DOHC block make engine mount for bare DOHC block remove bare DOHC block
extract B234F from garage fit B234F into 240 sedan wiring, fuel system.
VERY close! :-D Neighbour is away for 3 days so I didn't have to tow it out to the street/wolves last night. That gives me 3 days to complete everything and make it run. Hopefully. Or at least get it close. Still not clear of landlord visit, but gotta do what you gotta do. Teaser: 
_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:06 pm |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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Tonight I:
Jacked the front end way up in the air for ease of working beneath it (more difficult in front of it, though) Cleaned the factory 240 rear trans mount, bolts, bracket, nuts. Checked rear trans mount for alignment and tightened both nuts. Tightened the three exhaust to manifold nuts Modified the brace bracket for a longer slot and tightened that down bottom and front side Tightened one of the ATF cooling lines, before realising that reaching the other one would be near impossible after doing so Painted the steering collapse mechanism with matte black zinc primer to hide very light surface rust Checked TPS for usefulness - it's just a switch, need to find a replacement, possibly from an 850 Realised that the throttle cable and brake booster vacuum hose are both too short Looked at reinstalling the driveshaft bolts/nuts, but damage too excessive on them, need to find others from caravan or buy replacements Slid three usable bolts into driveshaft to hold it up against trans output flange, and finger tightened one nyloc nut against one of them (other two just loose as dowels for now)
And I felt like I got very little done! :-) Also went and bought a bunch of shelves, and started to put one set together, a bit wrongly.
Stuff that really needs doing ASAP:
0) Tighten second ATF cooling line, even if it means removing the one I already did 1) Find driveshaft bolts/nuts and install or repair the existing ones and reuse 2) Reconnect OD button wire 3) Flip shifter linkage and connect up to the stick 4) Drain/check both engine and trans - suspect both empty, refill and add new filter 6) Check LHS lower mount bolts for tightness 7) Remove dizzy/carby stuff from near battery 8) Wire up starter motor and alternator 9) Clean and install flame trap
And later:
1) Find usable TPS and/or throttle with TPS 2) Figure out which COP units to use on it 3) Get throttle cable working, somehow 4) Extend/replace brake booster hose 5) Make a dizzy hole bung retainer plate
To buy tomorrow:
Rubber mallet Dead blow hammer Extra rubber feet for smaller shelves if available
Stuff we had to do:
Mod LHS mount Fabricate RHS mount Remove distributor completely Remove fan and fan clutch assembly for clearance
Stuff that might have helped:
Remove AC pump from lower bracket
_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Mon Feb 26, 2018 12:15 pm |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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Fred wrote: Tonight I (all the crossed out items):
0) Tighten second ATF cooling line, even if it means removing the one I already did 1) Find driveshaft bolts/nuts and install or repair the existing ones and reuse 2) Reconnect OD button wire 3) Flip shifter linkage and connect up to the stick 4) Drain/check both engine and trans - suspect both empty, refill and add new filter 6) Check LHS lower mount bolts for tightness
7) Remove dizzy/carby stuff from near battery 8) Wire up starter motor and alternator 9) Clean and install flame trap
And later:
1) Find usable TPS and/or throttle with TPS 2) Figure out which COP units to use on it 3) Get throttle cable working, somehow 4) Extend/replace brake booster hose 5) Make a dizzy hole bung retainer plate
To buy tomorrow:
Rubber mallet Dead blow hammer Extra rubber feet for smaller shelves if available - not available Also: Forgot about: bracket and clamp for ATF cooling lines - DONE. Had to adjust the length of the shift rod (possibly bent a bit) Removed aircon pipe/hose from the 940 wagon/caravan Finger-tight installed lines for aircon onto pump Finger-tight installed pressure line from PS pump to rack Properly installed feed line to PS pump from reservoir Cleaned up the PS reservoir bracket nearly good enough to put back in IE, *everything* behind the firewall is ready to rumble and I progressed the engine bay stuff a bit, too. Trans shifter works for park vs neutral again. Exhaust is ready. TODO: Plumbing, wiring, bracketry, radiator, battery, ECU, ignition, fuel system. Just this away from driving my first 16v 240 :-D Uncrossed out items above still pending, though I did some research into COP units and requested an 850 throttle from a friend and will try to research throttle cable this evening. Priorities tomorrow evening: Flame trap install Idle valve hose Oil in and filter on Drain last ATF from trans, refill with X litres, 4 or so should be enough to prevent damage prior to warming up engine later Starter, alternator, dash temp sensor wiring - find engine loom? merge with car loom? Plugs out and crank to oil pressure, plugs back in (if clean enough, should be) Remove/hide/pull back choke cable Extend and connect brake booster hose Tuck cross-car loom back into clips Finish cleaning bracket, clean guard, reattach with grease between chassis/bracket and on screws Reconnect ground straps to new engine And more! Or less... :-)
_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Tue Feb 27, 2018 10:14 am |
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Fred
Moderator
Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm Posts: 15079 Location: Home sweet home!
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Fred wrote: Tonight I (all the crossed out items):
4) Drain/check both engine and trans - suspect both empty, refill and add new filter 6) Check LHS lower mount bolts for tightness and torque up if required 8) Wire up starter motor and alternator (only finger tight so far) 9) Clean and install flame trap
And later:
1) Find usable TPS and/or throttle with TPS 2) Figure out which COP units to use on it 3) Get throttle cable working, somehow 4) Extend/replace brake booster hose 5) Make a dizzy hole bung retainer plate
Flame trap install
Idle valve hose secured Oil in and filter on
Drain last ATF from trans, refill with X litres, 4 or so should be enough to prevent damage prior to warming up engine later Starter, alternator, dash temp sensor wiring - find engine loom? merge with car loom? Plugs out and crank to oil pressure, plugs back in (if clean enough, should be)
Remove/hide/pull back choke cable Extend and connect brake booster hose
Tuck cross-car loom back into clips
Finish cleaning bracket, clean guard, reattach with grease between chassis/bracket and on screws Reconnect ground straps to new engine (did one, not the other) Items not crossed out not done and on tomorrow's TODO list. Also investigated vacuum hose situations and fuel hose situations: Vacuum hose for brake booster required, and MAP sensor required and Flame Trap required. vs Stock hookups for brake booster, internal pneumatics, vacuum canister, and flame trap available. Therefore large internal pneumatics port on front top of intake available. And medium vacuum canister port below throttle body/plenum available. And need to find the hose from the plenum to flame trap, or use blue silicone, probably this. Hmm, may need a pneumatic feed to the engine bay for the 240, too? Not sure. Also reattached starter power feed, detached and removed some vacuum solenoid on the firewall, flushed out the coolant expansion tank, rinsed coolant from the front welded in cross member, scrubbed the engine bay extensively, scrubbed the power steering reservoir, removed the stock ign leads from the plugs, removed and cleaned the battery tray unit, figured out hose purchasing requirements (fuel and booster), and probably other stuff.
_________________DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum! The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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Wed Feb 28, 2018 11:52 am |
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