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Fred's 1983 KP60 Toyota Starlet, take 2! 
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I did a thing.

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NO RUST! :-D



No impact damage to the frame/unibody, either. Yes! :-)



Happy Fred.

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Fri Aug 12, 2016 1:42 am
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LQFP112 - Up with the play

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Congratulations, that's all looking nicely.
I like old Toyotas, and you got a good one too.

Also good work with the alternator change.
A few weeks ago I had a look for thinner (in diameter) generators, without luck though? With these neodynium magnets nowadays, I would've expected awesome small ones.


Fri Aug 12, 2016 12:56 pm
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Cheers! Yeah, pretty happy to find no rust/bog/repairs under there. The guard itself is rough, but I can score a better one in future, or one in composites. Will get the rest of the front off over the weekend and wash it down, touch it up and start putting it back together :-)

The alternator is best described as "inappropriate" due to the sheer size and the lack of room, but it'll work OK for the time being.

There are definitely some good small alternators around. But you say generators? There are very few of those around at all :-D

There is another factor for alternator size: Heat. People who track there cars regularly ruin alternators. A dutchman I know who Nurburgringed his car frequently solved the alternator crisis with a cooling duct direct to it. My truck will run one eventually, probably so will the KP. :-)

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Fri Aug 12, 2016 1:34 pm
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A couple of links about the J160 box for my reference:

General discussion, link to the only good post: http://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic ... ntry965403
Sales pitch by an ozzy company, pretty convincing: https://neatgearboxes.wordpress.com/201 ... rclip-mod/

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Mon Aug 22, 2016 10:15 pm
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4age with holy block, spare block, spare aircon comp, spare alternator.

Likely culprit is rod bolts? Or rod bendage?

Likely damage:

Head chamber smashed
Bent valves
Scored camshaft(s)
Scored crank journal(s)

Likely fine:

Main pulley
Cam sprocket
Cam VVT pulley
Idle valve
ITBs
Alternator
Other block

Value to me:

Idle valve, possibly easy to get a freebee, otherwise 20 for argument's sake
ITBs 150 - 200 to sell
Alternator 50 to 100 to buy or sell
Pulleys 50+ to buy
Plastic/alloy cam covers and belt covers 50 to buy

Optimism:

Spare block is OK
Head may be salvagable

Experimentation:

If ruined, I can cut the head up to find out how best to fit oil drains to the good other two I have.
3 spare rods?
3 spare pistons?
3 sets of spare valves?
spare lifters/shims?

Math:

min value to me: 150 + 50 + 50 = 250
max value to me: 200 + 50 + 100 + 20 + 50 = 420
likely value to me: 200 + 50 + 50 = 300 < max bid? Or less? Not more.


And while I was writing that, a 200 buy now was added, so I just clicked that, and the bidding strategy went out the window! :-D

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Mon Oct 24, 2016 5:21 am
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Engine was:

Picked up on Wednesday night
Partially pulled down on Thursday night
Completely pulled down on Saturday
Head is OK, valves in one cylinder are not OK, a little die grinding and a skim required to reuse, aside from new/used valves.
Crank is ruined, so I'm on the lookout for two good condition small port/silvertop/blacktop cranks that don't need undersizing
ITBs are fine and legit
Dizzy is fine and legit
ISCV is fine and legit
Pulleys and sprockets are fine and legit
Two pistons are OK, two rods are OK (third has been touched in a bad way, so might be OK, but I'd not risk it.)

I'll probably mod this head for RWD status and track-worthy status as a first run of my plans to validate them as it's the worst of the three heads

Need to post some tweets in here...

And today: I finally bought the belt for the new alternator on the 4K. I should go down and fit it and make sure it's right. 11A0865 is what I bought, 850 may be better, both *should* work.

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Sun Oct 30, 2016 5:26 am
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JUST managed to roll the 11A0865 over the water pump pulley, which is good, as then the alternator fell back maybe 20mm of adjustment and there's plenty spare for when it stretches and wears in. 850 would have been a fail. 880 may have been OK but close to the end of adjustment, and worse positioning for the wiring of the behemoth.

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 3533425664

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Sun Oct 30, 2016 5:58 am
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Next steps for the engine are:

1) Remove fasteners from the dead block, install in the spare block (just for safe keeping/locating)
2) Scrap/recycle 3 batteries, and the block, and probably the crank, too, to save space, get some pocket money
3) Label and bag up all of the lifters and cam caps and fasteners until the head is bare
4) Take the head to wash world and degrease and water blast until it's all nice and clean
5) Remove valves, and bag/label, look for 5 replacement valves to go in #1/#4 ?

Thinking about an EFI fuel system. I made an offer on a KP fuel tank but the guy didn't even try to barter. LOL, nearly worthless unless yours is rusty or punctured. I only want to use it to develop an EFI fuel system for the KP :-) Speaking of which...

YEARS ago I bought a carby fuel pump: E8016SD which turns out to be 2.5-4psi @ 30GPH (25-35 on some sites) https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 6031559680

Pump Math: 30 gph * 3.8 lpg = 114 lph
Engine Math: 300 ccpm/0.3 lpm * 60 mph * 4 cylinders = 72 lph

IE, I can use it for a feed pump in the KP with no worries, assuming it's still in OK condition. It can feed a small surge tank and an EFI pump can feed from the surge tank and feed the engine with the usual dual loop return scheme. Win! I'll test the flow rate personally before I settle on it, but it only really needs to do average duty from shift to shift, and I reckon the stock injectors are smaller than 300cc/min, too.

Need to find a cheap/free alloy fire extinguisher with the right shape to mod into a nice light surge tank.

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Sun Oct 30, 2016 10:55 am
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This arrived today! :-)

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Thu Nov 03, 2016 11:27 am
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And this got stripped down a bit tonight: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 9585790976

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And found this amongst it all: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 1172398080

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Fri Nov 04, 2016 11:42 am
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