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Fred's 1990 Volvo 740 GLE Sedan 
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Not sure if this will wind up in the 740 or 240 but: viewtopic.php?f=41&t=2639&p=40873#p40873

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Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:51 am
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Odometer gears arrived! Well packaged and a perfect fit with the broken OEM parts and, therefore, each other, too. https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 0010636288

The factory parts are made of something akin to wax, and I'd highly recommend replacing them any time you have the dash out as it's only a matter of time until they fail on all of these 2/7/9 series cars.

Will try to get it put back together tonight and installed tomorrow, fingers crossed the gas gauge and odo both work after reinstall :-)

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Sat Dec 05, 2015 9:09 am
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Side task during reassembly, cleaning the numbers of the odometer and trip counter:

Dirty vs clean numbers in the odometer: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 6630040576
Overall (mostly) before view: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 9580788736
Overall (totally) after view: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 4057878528

Much better, and, finally, the money shot: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5637645312

Sadly, it looks as if I may have scraped/knocked a bit of the orange from the needle during the overall process. Bugger. Will have to source a replacement needle if the fixes go well. Or a whole dash if they don't, this one had been modified anyway. The trouble with old cars is that they have been poorly fixed or modified by someone else ;-)

Fred.

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Sat Dec 05, 2015 10:58 am
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Dash dropped back in for a test drive tonight. Odometer works! :-D Speedo, tacho, and temp gauge all still work. Fuel gauge seems better, but still not convinced it's 100%. Did not see it go above full with a full tank on the return trip, though, which was unheard of before, so maybe I did fix it. Time will tell. At least with the trip counter I can have a fair idea how much fuel is left and know when to pull in for more.

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 3812828160

Yes, that's a bamboo skewer and hot glue stiffening the three little lights and another piece to the dimmer unit to reinforce the fourth one. The lights are glued in place with hot glue to insulate the factory terminals. Why? Factory stuff is long gone, and plastic around holes has been over heated. I may rewire the replacements to the dimmer at some point, but for now it's just nice to have them not fall off causing the dash to go dark.

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Sun Dec 06, 2015 10:40 am
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Fuel gauge is still full of lies. I wonder if the sensor is bad. Or whether I missed a dry joint somewhere when reflowing it. One thing I did not do while it was apart was find a power supply and fix it. Is such a thing in the dash somewhere? Another thing I did was introduce a nasty rattle via the connector hanging there, will have to pad or secure that.

In other news, I got an EZK module from a 760 at the yard today. That means I have 4 EZK modules and 4 LH2.4 fuel ECUs such that the stockers for each good car can go on the shelf and the parts car ones can get retrofitted with FreeEMS goodness.

EZK box and loom: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2512727040
EZK loom section: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5836955648

Car is still a skeleton of its former self. Need to find the time to put it back together properly, starting with the front and dash. Tail lights and boot lip fixes can wait a bit longer, though driving without working indicators takes some special approaches to avoid near misses.

Fred.

EDIT: more pics of ECUs that I forgot to cross post:

viewtopic.php?p=40873#p40873
viewtopic.php?p=40942#p40942
viewtopic.php?p=40955#p40955

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Mon Dec 07, 2015 9:09 am
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Likely voltage reg in dash for gauges.

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Wed Dec 09, 2015 10:23 am
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I thought it was in the cluster, not in the dash, or is that what you meant?

Tonight I got the front end back together and looking mint/working right.

  • Functional new left headlight assembly without bullet hole in glass and cracked bulb holder.
  • New headlight/park/indicator connectors on that side (other side pending).
  • Replaced broken squirter in bonnet with slightly wrong one that sprays too widely, for now.
  • CRC on the lower latch holes just for now (have fresher ones to clean up and install).
  • Better grill off the 940 wagon with more complete chrome plating installed.
  • Fresher fasteners from the 940 et all with a little grease to ensure they stay fresh where it counts.
  • Added a missing clip to the right headlight glass.
  • Replaced rooted air box clips with fresher ones: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2084499456
  • Topped up the coolant slightly as it's still seeping out slowly around the top of the pump since the acid treatment.

Left to do in the front:

  • Add missing battery holding clamp to loose battery.

And inside:

  • Solve fuel gauge issue
  • Solve rattle that I introduced
  • Replace a bit of trim that was damaged by PO
  • Screw cluster back into dash
  • Various other bits of interior loose and/or not working

And at the back:

  • Obtain left tail light in better shape than my current one (UV damage = looks milky and white)
  • Wire wheel the light surface rust under the seal in places
  • Weld two small spots where the surface rust made it through and the lip is too low to stop water ingress
  • Rust kill the remaining wire wheeled sites
  • Zinc prime all unpainted areas
  • Top coat all zinc primed areas
  • Clean rust out of seal with acid and rinse thoroughly before drying
  • Fix stud mounts on tail lights as needed (JBWeld FTW, again)
  • Clean under left tail light so as to ensure minimal drying time post rain
  • Reinstall tail lights, with working bulbs, and test
  • Vacuum and/or hose out boot liner which is a bit dusty/grubby and dry with overnight heater again
  • Reinstall spare tyre, jack, boot floor, etc and call it a car once again.

Underneath we have:

  • New 24mm sway bar from 760 with new bushings (ordered today)
  • New strut bar bushings in urethane
  • New brake rotors/pads from the 940 wagon
  • Kill/seal some surface rust on under body/front valence

This being important for the upcoming WOF. Need to grab some rego before that expires, too. 15 days to go.

Fred.

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Wed Dec 09, 2015 12:15 pm
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Worked on removing the block for the 500hp build for this car, this afternoon! Will finish the job and retrieve it/bring it home starting 9am tomorrow morning, hopefully done by noon. Need to do some research tonight on b230/b234 brackets/engine mounts before I go, too.

Brought the starter home already, well fresher than the ones I have. Good score.

Pics as I can be bothered uploading them, possibly over dinner.

Fred.

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n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
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Sat Dec 12, 2015 7:18 am
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Research complete, I need the cross member and mounts and brackets and maybe even pump and alternator and air con, but not sure.

B230F in 240 different to identical B230F in 740/940
B234F in 740/940 different to B230F in 740/940

Pics uploaded:

Bracket reconditioning using oxalic acid, rustfort, wattyl killrust black zinc:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2908889088
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7671473152 (looks grey in pic, but is black)

New bottom end for this car:

https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7263558656
https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 3709593600

Cute head stuff: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 7215256576

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FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sat Dec 12, 2015 1:07 pm
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Mission complete, Volvo parts galore at my place right now. 800 bucks in the last few weeks on bits for these two cars! :-o Well worth it, though, upgrades and repairs and the end result, a better motoring experience and a minter pair of cars. Pics:

Cross member for B230F: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5745412096
"Squirter" B230F in the 240: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 2431704064

More pics as I get a chance to use these parts.

Fred.

_________________
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sun Dec 13, 2015 4:01 am
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