DIYEFI.org Forum

Signal wheel done.

Yes, fused relayed independent power as directly from the battery as possible, and two ground inputs from the ignitors. Test it on the bench: Power, four leads, two plugs in between the two leads, one lead to ground, one lead on normally, touch a wire to ground briefly from each of the two inputs and watch for the sparks.

Ok. I will try it now that I get what you are saying. I have a Bosch ignitor module, but I think the pigtails I need to get for it are more expensive than the module itself. Can the Jaguar board's injector drivers be used for ignitors?

Also, can I use the the oil temp instead of the water temp since I don't have any water and the oil would be a good indicator of engine temp? I have a really easy place to put it...and I'm looking for something easy.

No, you can't use a low Voltage FET to drive a coil. You could buy IGBTs and make your own in a small heat sink, but I'd still HIGHLY recommend mounting it appropriately in the bay in line with battery and fuse and relay and coil, for minimal noise generation.

Oil temp is an option, but not a good option. Tapping something into the head is the best option. Do some research on that. The firmware is designed with air cooled engines in mind.

I managed to drill out the hardened exhaust studs with a couple carbide bits I had. Apparently you can do it with the carbide tipped concrete bits too (and they are cheaper). They are a little loose like the first one I did, but it tightened up fine with Loctite. One is a little askew, but the exhaust should still fit.

I made a couple orders for parts including the injected intake manifold from CB Performance. It will save me some precious time. (Next car I can make my own intake. ) It has a 2" inlet so I think I might have to upsize the rest of the intake instead of using what I've got. There is always PVC, right?!?

Oh, and as far as the CHT sensor goes....I read that the spark plug ring is actually a bit more responsive/accurate than tapping the head. There are plenty of opinions on it, of course! Would it hurt to also put an oil temp sensor in since I won't have a use for this sensor otherwise...? If it doesn't make sense, I can leave it off too.

Spark plug base temp may well be more responsive, however I'm not sure I'd want anything under my plug that isn't the crush washer attached to it. You need a warm up enrich temp sensor of some sort, and the closer it tracks cylinder/head/port temperature, the more useful it'll be/the less trouble you'll have.

Oil temperature is definitely important with an air cooled engine as it's where a lot of the heat ends up, hence factory oil coolers on them. em_knaps french air cooled flat fours have even bigger coolers stock, but they rev pretty hard, too. Oil temp would be something to monitor with a gauge and/or datalog and/or trigger warning lights/engine cuts on.

PVC... might survive post good intercooler? :-D

I hear ya on the spark plug ring. It is not ideal, but has it's advantages. It is on order, so will try it. I actually have quite a number of things coming in that I have to wait for to get the engine running.

I decided to try to get the suspension, brake, and steering work started. I've replaced the ball joints, tie rod, shock, and steering damper on this corner. I have new calipers, rotors and pads to put in. It will be like a whole new car!

Got to the same point on the other front wheel. Still need to do the brakes both sides. Received almost all of the parts I ordered so I will try to finish up a few more things this weekend.

I also wanted to give you a helpful hint that I learned today. If you try to press out a ball joint, make sure to do it in the right direction. The wrong direction is really hard to do. I tried for a good half an hour and I didn't get anywhere!