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280z Turbocharged MS2 v3.0 
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TO220 - Visibile

Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 6:53 pm
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Here was my temporary install I had to remove it because of the noise. I suspect the ground plane was coming up by a couple of volts causing the brickRPM not to function properly also probably the root cause of my Knock settings not working. If i turned on Knock settings the car will barely run it just starts pulling random timing. Im using knocksenseMS and it puts out a solid 5v normally and 0v when knock active to the MS.

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Wed Apr 24, 2013 12:43 am
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That looks to be connected wrongly? If the silver cable is your VR sensor wire, is it two + shield and one not visible? Or single core shielded with shield going to V3.0 ground? If the former and you have the two cores to the BrickRPM, then that's OK. If the latter and you're grounding the sensor to the V3.0 then that's not OK at all. Both sensor wires MUST be connected directly to and ONLY to the BrickRPM input pins. This is in contrast to the V3.0 VR conditioner which requires that you ground one of the VR wires. The differential input is a core part of the success of the MAX992X based devices. If it's hooked up correctly and it's just not visible in the pic, sorry for the advice :-)

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Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:54 am
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Yeah you just can't see it in the pic but I have both VR- and VR+ going into brickRPM and the Shield is grounded with brickRPM to Proto Ground.

So when I first installed my alternator I hit the wrench with the cap while tightening down the power connection with it still attached to the battery (I know i should have unplugged it from the battery first) well it put a hole in the side of the cap but appeared fine when hit with a multimeter. So I finally got a new one in last night and put it on and at the same time I removed the DB37 connections and put some pressure on the male pins in an effort to make better contact.

After doing this I started up the car and turned on the knock setting....It worked!!! It was not pulling timing at idle so I took it for a spin and datalogged a couple of runs. Out of 4 runs only one pulled timing about 3 degrees. The light didn't go off so i suspect just a little noise triggered it but it is definitely better than it was.

Only thing is when im in boost I can feel random misfires. I think it is due to the noise VR conditioner because I didn't have that problem with the BrickRPM when everything was functioning properly.


Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:41 pm
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OK, cool! Sorry :-)

In that case, put the BrickRPM back in :-)

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Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:01 pm
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Alright well finally got around to doing some work to the z!!!!

I pulled the relay board and all of the wiring. Bought a wiring harness from diyautotune and am currently wiring it up.

I am going to leave the BIP373 inside the board for ignition but will be giving it its own ground through one of the spare I/O's.

I decided to build my own injector resistor pack. My injectors are 3 ohms and I used 8 ohm resistors giving me about 1.25 Amps @ 14v per injector.

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Tue Jun 04, 2013 7:16 am
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longhorn262 wrote:
I am going to leave the BIP373 inside the board for ignition but will be giving it its own ground through one of the spare I/O's.

Madness! Make sure you twist it around your crank/cam signal wires for maximum effect LOL :-) [sarcasm... make sure you run your signals separately to your power/ground/inj/ign, splitting away from the db37 like a Y]

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I decided to build my own injector resistor pack. My injectors are 3 ohms and I used 8 ohm resistors giving me about 1.25 Amps @ 14v per injector.

Looks neat! Chuck a cable tie around the bundle on the inside of the box at each end to help stop it pulling on the connections.

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Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:59 am
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Yeah the db37 has about 6 inches from the ecu until it passes through the firewall. At that point grounds, power/fuel/inj , signal/signal ground all split off in those groups.

The only thing is the ignition wire is run with my vr wire but it is shielded so should be fine.

Thanks for the zip tie idea didn't think of that.


Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:44 pm
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That's the ONE signal that you really DON'T want run with the ignition wires. It's the only signal that can't be filtered in any useful way, too. But try it, might be OK. If not, you know what to do: Get a cheap/free OEM ignitor from a junk yard and put it close to the coil(s).

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Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:44 pm
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