Non-issue. Under 20mA is less than ideal, but only if driving something external. If driving something internal, eg FET-drivers, then 5mA is enough.Peter wrote:Your XOR gate's current rating is 24mA, and the copy of Ravage that I'm using has XOR gates rated at 32mA.
+1 also, thermistor bias and battery divider network resistors should be tighter tolerance (0.1%). You can tune out the BRV easily, and you can generate a matching curve to the bias resistor, but that's less straight forward once installed/setup.Also the cost difference for 1% tolerance resistors is pretty small so I always try to order them if I'm buying resistors from somewhere that has 1% resistors. This is far more important for the analog signal conditioning circuits.
It's more about tolerance than heat rating, but yes, +1I'd recommend a better heat rating on your capacitors like x7r
I didn't look, but they need to drop 0.3V or less at 20mA or more at all temperatures you expect to operate at. If not, they're not going to do much good. Diodes like this are fairly hard to find.I don't know much of anything about diodes so somebody else should review them, but the current rating looks a little high to me. I think that generally results in a higher current leakage, and a higher price tag for no reason.
It's really more of a "what will i install THIS hw on" choice. You should use the narrowest sensor range you can for best resolution.I assume that's the sensor that the Jaguar uses. If your board has no plans of ever seeing a boosted engine that sensor should give you a finer pressure resolution, but I like Ravage's sensor better MPXH6250AC6U ~3-36psi I think. More of a personal choice.
Holy jesus batman. 500mA should be plenty for most setups. Do a current audit. Heat wise, it comes down to heatsink, v drop and current drawn, obviously. The regulator doesn't really have a choice. Descent heat sinking is essential, but one regulator to power map, cpu, xor, thermistors, tps, signal conditioning ics, should be plenty.No, I don't think 500mA will do it. My original board had a 1A LDO reg on it, and the heat sink got too hot for my taste. My latest board has 2A of capacity, and bigger heat sinks.
+1, it was crap. Aim for sub 100milliohms accept some error over it if you must.The first thing that I notice that I don't like about it is that it has about 20 times more resistance.
opto digital ins are a nice idea for stuff like clutch switch or similar. Not useful outside of that, though, as far as I can tell. LOL @ using one on the knock chip :-) No, it's an analogue input, and needs to be what it is.Optoisolated digital inputs for... knock input?
I'm not sure where you got this idea. I think an opto in the knock sensor circuit would effectively block the frequency spectrum that you're trying to analyze with the knock sensor chip.
What's a "torque converter" :-/Digital Outputs (relay controls) for fuel pump, cooling fan, torque converter lockup, anything else?
Fred doesn't even understand this plan :-o Ignorant people don't like things that they don't understand, thus I don't like it :-)I guarantee you that Fred won't like this plan.IAT - I can wire this to a switch for cold starting, but eventually I want the ecu to run it.
Cept the thermistor bias ones, which, at least, should be better.I'll switch over to 1% for all the resistors.
It's about tolerance, not failure.Also, the inside of my old ECU never got above 50c even on a hot day, but it wouldn't hurt to overrate the caps.
Not really, one is enough for most people. If you live next to a mountain and like to drive up it from the beach, yes.yeah I need two inputs, ambient and intake.
If it was a FET, then it's got an RDSOn, not a V drop. If it was a BJT or IGBT, then it has a V drop, not an RDSOn. The above is confusing. The resistance was terrible, though :-(I double checked, you're right they won't work. The resistance isn't the problem, the 1.4V drop across the source/drain is, so I'll spec a different one out :)
Think 1000hp 2 litre engine with 1000hp of fuel being furiously pumped around at idle, it's shit. They draw 30A and it goes no where. Cooling fan wise, there are many reasons, such as noise, and power drain and consistency of temperature, etc.That scares me. I don't know why. Probably ignorance.I think Fred has some plans/ideas on using PWM on fuel pumps, and cooling fans.
I have something that you might like, coming soon.My distributor has a VR sensor in it, I'm not adding it.A VR sensor probably isn't going to like the distributor's tooth shape. Why do you want a sensor on the distributor?
Now I'm even more confused! :-/That I want to control it with a switch until he gets support in the ECU?I guarantee you that Fred won't like this plan.
Fred.