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2003 Toxic Tacoma 
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:37 pm
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Looks like Hackster's in a good mood, cause here comes the fudge:

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This is to let you know that you have been selected to receive one free Infineon's 3D Magnetic 2GO Kit based on "The Wireless Engine", the application you submitted to Sensing the World in All Three Dimensions!

I had originally considered tapping existing Denso sensors, but given this news can mock up a custom proof-of-concept and play around with the firmware.

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FreeEMS vehicle #23: 2003 Toyota "Toxic" Tacoma
Build page: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1635)


Tue May 01, 2018 10:26 pm
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Hackity hack! :-D Would be hilarious if you could get the latency down and consistent enough to do the crank sensing with it :-D

If it's consistent enough, an offset can be added to the firmware to account for the error in it so you get stable timing with RPM change.

Would I run it on my turbo charged beasts? No! But :-)

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Wed May 02, 2018 6:30 am
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LQFP112 - Up with the play
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Hi Jeff, nice to see some updates :) I made some can/display stuff myself lately so if I can help you at some point with idea's, schematics or code (in whichever state they might be) just give me a shout.


Wed May 02, 2018 12:49 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Great encouragement, guys. Thanks. I'm going to start posting updates again on these and loosely related projects just to regain some momentum. To kick that off, here are some general thoughts about advancing everything:

Drill: I'm only stuck at the spindle rebuild, something that normally isn't done as it's considered a single part by the OEM. I plan to file down the old bearings and use those to properly seat the old ones from either end without putting too much stress on the new ones. The pisser is that the old chuck collar's seized and traditional methods aren't freeing it up. I don't want to stress the spindle itself as these aren't readily available. Tonight I'll dust it off and re-evaluate as completion of this can facilitate other projects.

Pi dash computer: Several issues. Cabling from the IR sensors originally involved crappy IoT breadboarding wires held together by heatshrink, but I realize now I have the perfect wire for replacement. The IR sensors are also jutting out more than I'd like and sanding the PCB edges down might help. I've also been wanting to relocate the entire unit, but am giving up on that due to time. The biggest issue in the long term is that the unit used to sense vehicle power-off couldn't handle the amperage as advertised and I have to build a 3+ amp relay-based solution once the Pi powers off.

Program assisted tuning: Software exists which can make some best guesses at tuning and I want to give this a shot to see if it can further tighten a tune Fred assembled for me. I forgot he restored my Git branch with the necessary data, so this can actually happen now.

Decoder: All a matter of time at work and revisiting notes and conversation. Building up some decoder writing skills would be awesome for helping out.

Fuel pump cap & oil leak: This would be good during a lunch break this week.

CAN Bus firewall: My wife will be out at conferences and I can do this in piecemeal when the kids are asleep. The original firmware developer (intern?) left JLR and is no longer involved in automotive projects.

Digital dash display: This one won't be based on CAN, though I'd eventually like to go that route. For other reasons I won't go into here, I do need to get work on learning CAN programmatically. I had considered removing the backlight of the LCD panel and putting TV LEDs in the gauge cluster bulb chamber, but this will depend on time and how well the initial mockup will operate, shaded, in daylight.

Wireless Engine: I put this last only because I'm awaiting parts. This might start off only as parasitic devices on the loom which man-in-the-middle ALL sensors. They'd then provide feedback to an independent ECU for data processing and code testing. That would satisfy the contest I'm interested in and provide a viable method to hack and slash.

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FreeEMS vehicle #23: 2003 Toyota "Toxic" Tacoma
Build page: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1635)


Wed May 02, 2018 3:44 pm
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Self-imposed accountability for the win!

After months of stalled progress on the drill, I was able to free the collar only to discover that it was frozen in the removal state. Meaning, it got wedged in place while someone seemingly was trying to remove the chuck. So I had to put some more work into removing the chuck and finally freed that bastard. There's some visible scoring in the pictures below, both from my aggressive efforts at clip and chuck removal as well as decades of grit filling gaps. The saddest part was scarring up the Jacobs 633C chuck, possibly unnecessarily, but it has some wobble and will find a good home on the shelf.

I'll do final cleanup over lunch today and prep for reassembly. The new keyless chuck is already en route and will arrive on May 10th.

Image
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FreeEMS vehicle #23: 2003 Toyota "Toxic" Tacoma
Build page: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1635)


Fri May 04, 2018 6:55 pm
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The threads on my drill parts are horrendous. So much grit. If I didn't mention it before, the whole point of this rebuild stems from the original shape I bought it in. All seemed well initially, but it turned out someone greased it with axle grease. Not only is that way too heavy a grease for a drill press, but over time it became gunked up and glue-like tacky, so the quill wouldn't reliably return to its set point without force. Someone had been applying force for so long that the side crank mechanism began damaging crucial parts. Additionally, the top spindle bearing rotates roughly much like a when a CD-ROM motor picks up a "dead spot".

So parts are somewhat cleaned up and the top spindle bearing was knocked out of the quill through a combination of shop press, floor jack pole, and compression against the driveway. I was surprised to see the original bearing was never fully seated and that it scarred up the quill quite a bit:

Image

Probably OEM, but might have been replaced poorly. I'll grind that down soon. The bearings on either end will have to be pressed in the following order:

  • Lower bearing onto spindle, c-clipped to keep spindle from moving under pressure
  • Bearing and spindle into quill
  • Top bearing onto spindle and into quill

I'll grind down the old bearings so they slide freely and can seat/hold the new bearings without applying damaging and opposing force to the inner and outer rings.

After cleaning up, I realized I never ordered the correct lower quill bearing, a double-row angular bearing. Since Craftsman never intended these to be replaced individually and the revealed part numbers are no longer manufactured, I went made the measurements and ordered all new sealed bearings. There's disagreement in the community about whether to go with shielded vs. sealed bearings: OEM bearings are metal shielded with faster rotation; sealed offer more protection from both leaking and external dust/grit/fluids. If the alleged RPM speed differences are legit, it's no small deal, but I suspect these will be fine once broken in and the trade off is worth the longevity.

Very eager to complete this project and move on.

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FreeEMS vehicle #23: 2003 Toyota "Toxic" Tacoma
Build page: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1635)


Fri May 04, 2018 10:25 pm
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Question, do you want me to break up this thread into a pit-lane or lounge thread about your tools? No worries, if not.

I guess I just expect to see Truck/ECU stuff in here, and the drill stuff is, to me, interesting, but a bit disappointing due to not matching the label on the box ;-)

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DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sat May 05, 2018 10:09 am
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Location: Manhattan, KS. USA
Point taken and that's been on my mind somewhat as well. Let's assume the drill is said and done as it won't take much longer to sort out.

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FreeEMS vehicle #23: 2003 Toyota "Toxic" Tacoma
Build page: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1635)


Sat May 05, 2018 2:55 pm
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Nah, we need at least one more post on it, the successfully used it to start building a turbo manifold for the truck post, perhaps? :-D

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DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sun May 06, 2018 8:41 am
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LQFP144 - On Top Of The Game
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Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:37 pm
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Location: Manhattan, KS. USA
Last post on Craftsman drill. Re-bearinged, new chuck

Image

Image

The return spring is worn out enough that I had to set far more tension than is ideal, but it's all in back together and lubed up.

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FreeEMS vehicle #23: 2003 Toyota "Toxic" Tacoma
Build page: http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1635)


Mon May 14, 2018 5:09 pm
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