Discussion of Number 10

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Peter
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Discussion of Number 10

Post by Peter »

I'm starting this thread on Fred's suggestion:
Sounds like it might be time for a thread about the car itself in the user rides section with that sort of info.
in viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1560. Not that I really think I need another thread for my car.
The build thread: viewtopic.php?f=62&t=1533
1. how are you controlling the turbos... they are sequential, right ? can we have more pics of the exhaust manifolds (showing all the plumbing to the turbos), and also the intake side of the turbos ?
The smaller Volvo turbo came with its stock waste gate actuator, and I decided to use it since it opens up into the bigger turbo anyway. Plus I didn't want to destroy it by spinning it too fast, because it did come off a 2.2L, I think. I have an electronic boost controller for the secondary turbo's waste gate, but it's not currently on the car. I decided to hook the secondary waste gate directly up to the boost so that it opens fairly quickly. Despite what people may think, I don't want to burn the engine up while screwing around without it tuned properly. Sequential, I guess, I call them compound, but same thing I assume. NO you can't have more pictures, because then everybody will see they're on there just for show. lol

The setup was originally a cheap kit from ebay.
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Then I got into it with my shitty mig welding skills, and fixed it up good. I tried to make really nice bends, but a couple are a little tight. My main goal was to raise the ground clearance, and the second turbo was kind of an after thought. The exhaust is stock from the front of the cab back.

Yes, I used rebar to support and stabilize the pipes so that it wouldn't crack the welds from two turbos hanging onto them.
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Ground clearance.
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Coming around the oil pan on the left, and going to the tail pipe on the right.
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The bend at the top of this picture is a little too tight.
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The bend around to the secondary on the left, and the down pipe off the secondary on the right.
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Intake side.
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2. modern 3.5L v6 with boost... what sort of power is this making ? at what boost ? I take the engine compression is stock ? (which is?)
No idea, I've never even seen a dyno in person. 1. I never installed a gauge in it. 2.The OEM setup wouldn't let me spin the turbos up. It would throw a high MAP sensor error, and stop injecting fuel. 3. I'm at about 7500ft in elevation, so I'm starting off at about ~2.5psi less than someone at sea level. I got the engine out of a junk yard for $200 with 60k on it, and stuck it in my car. Wikipedia lists it at 10:1.

The reason the engine was so cheap.
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Peter
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Peter »

Fred made a comment about this engine being on borrowed time, but I don't think he knew how right he was.
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The crack in the block is starting to leak. If Preston doesn't hurry up this car might steal Engine#11 from him.
Last edited by Peter on Sun Feb 19, 2012 7:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Fred
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Fred »

Wow, do they do that often? Is it anything to do with the tune? Or just a fact of life with J engines? Or a manufacturing flaw? Tell us the story? BTW, 11 or 12 engines are lined up, not sure who will be next :-) Not sure you get 11 for same engine in same car either, that's splitting hairs isn't it?
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Peter »

That was caused by a front end collision, and me being cheap. That's what I get for buying a 200 dollar engine from a junkyard. Nothing to do with the FreeEMS thankfully. It'd be the same car with a different engine. I think I'll call the next engine 10.01 so that I have plenty of room to get to 11. :-) I did find another J35a3 in town that one of my friends has for a sand rail, but it has 184k miles on it so I don't really want to buy it.

Now onto my dumbass project of the day. Replacing the ~320cc/min injectors with 720cc/min injectors. I couldn't find any oversize injectors for a J35, but they make some for the J30. So I figure the same series of engine should have about the same injectors. Not quite, but close enough that I can make them fit.

The difference in length.
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The notched out fuel rail for the slightly bigger diameter injector. I took a hack saw to it, and then broke the piece off with some vise grips.
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You have to cut a little bit off of the other side for the connector plug.
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The carbide I ground down to the right size to cut the o-ring grove.
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I put the o-ring down as close as I could to the electrical plug.
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The finished product.
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EDIT: Added a couple of pictures I forgot.
EDIT2: The injectors were still about 1/16 of an inch too long, but within the compressibility of the bottom rubber seal so it worked out alright. I would advise anyone else thinking about doing this not to. It's a 500 dollar mistake if you screw them up. It's also a lot of work with the right tools, and you can't use the original screens that come with the injectors.
Last edited by Peter on Sun Feb 19, 2012 5:36 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Fred »

Nice work! :-)
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Fred »

I was going to suggest going without coolant and using a cooling system sealer, though it's likely too cold for that there. If it's "just" a crack, you should definitely try the bottle fix. I've kept two engines alive with that type of stuff. Number one was a low capacity mitsu sohc piece of shit that i revved 1k over redline every day for a few years with no air cleaner, the box failed and the body failed long before the engine did. The other is the mighty hotel! It had a headgasket failure, so I dropped the coolant, flushed it a few times till it was free of glycol, and poured in this product, the name of which I've forgotten, and filled with water. It's still going strong now :-) Beats changing an engine, may as well try it.
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Peter »

Sadly I already have some sealer in it. Which is probably the only reason it's still driving around. The problem is the chunk that's broke off of the block is part of an engine mount. If I'd drive like I had some sense it'd last awhile longer, but the hard corners and rough roads are opening the crack up. If you look at the last two pictures in my first post you can see the crack. My dad has a 68 Ford pickup with a porous block that leaked oil into the antifreeze. So we filled it up with a water&alcohol mix a few times until most of the oil was out of it. The sealer we used on that was an epoxy with copper filings. That was a few years ago, so I'm a believer in those sealers. What I need is a good tig welder, but they're a little out of my price range. What I'd like to do is get a J37 rotating assembly to put in a good J35 block. Not that I really need more displacement.
Fred wrote:BTW, 11 or 12 engines are lined up, not sure who will be next
It wouldn't be very hard to setup my Ford pickup with a cam sync, and six port injectors to run basically the same setup I have on the Honda. Would it be better to run something like a 30-1 than a 6-2 gear on the cam?
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Fred »

Does the ford have any sort of position sensor stock? Or nothing? Stupid question, 1968 LOL, ok.

The 6-2 is not a recommended setup at all :-) For ignition control it would suck pretty badly. Might still be usable, though. Reason being that there are not at least as many input events as there are output events (evenly spaced). So each tooth has one output based on it, cept the last one, which gets two based on it. The one that is close will be as good as any other, but the one that is far will have significantly more timing error during starting and acceleration.

If you want to sequential fuel inject the old truck with standard ignition then add some sort of cam sensor with at least 6 evenly spaced events, preferably 12, though 12-1 would be ok, 24-1 would also be ok, 24+1 is fine too, etc. Toyota CAS units have 24+1+1 setups in them if you want to adapt something. Mitsu v6 engines have a nice CAS with a 6+1 disk of which you can use both edges and is effectively 12 evenly spaced events plus a sync. Your engineering talents seem pretty good and those optical CAS units are pretty versatile in terms of what you can put inside them to aid decoder dev and testing too :-)

Don't forget that you'd need another wideband sensor for the truck too, unless you share your current one across both engines.

Fred.
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Peter »

Fred wrote: Your engineering talents seem pretty good
I don't think it's engineering, maybe ghetto fab skills. What's the best kind of trigger to use? VR, hall, optical. Points? lol

I managed to trade a single action .357 revolver for engine 10.01. Last night I thought he said it had around 187k on it, but this morning it has 84-87k miles on it. I guess I'll have to run the VIN#.Image
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Re: Discussion of Number 10

Post by Fred »

LOL @ trading a gun for it! As long as it's clean under the valve cover and not rusty in the coolant channels, should be OK. Assuming no overheating or other silliness has occurred.
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!
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