Fred's 1987 16v B234F Powered Volvo 240 GL Sedan

[Fred]

I was dailying the hotel for ages, but it's not practically usable these days - needs a water pump and new rings. The water pump severely limits the fun. The ringlessness of it isn't terrible. I took it for a little burn literally around the block minus one car space before I pulled the ECU for use in this. And I enjoyed it. It's a good fun little car that thing, despite what anyone else thinks.

But yes, this one I will gladly operate at every opportunity :-D The pissing rear main seal may somewhat subdue the fun, though. We'll see.

Today I:

Configured firmware
Built firmware
Loaded firmware (UL)
Logged & tuned engine (EMStudio+patches)
Viewed logs (ULV)

Full stack usage, and it wasn't too painful, really. Though you always notice some niggles when it's been a while :-) So yeah, good for FreeEMS and good fun for me.

I'm absolutely knackered, but I don't hate life quite so much as a typical post-midnight garage night without having run a fresh engine swap :-D

Especially not one that everyone said wasn't possible! :-)

This engine can stay in this car until a few years time unless I have issues WOFing it. The BMW V12 can find its way into the same spot later maybe :-)

I'm keen to rig up a turbo kit on this once the basics are ironed out. A good test bed for things I want to do to my precious 240 wagon.

[Fred]

Tomorrow I should:

0) Correct dwell curve to suit coils - 2-3ms from high to low V for a start
1) Replace the alligator clip with some solder - required for LEDs and ignition functionality in my Jaguar.
2) Take 10 degrees timing out of the offset value and ensure the timing table in use is reasonable
3) Add 10 to 20% VE to the cranking/starting rows/columns, up from 60% flat
4) Place a drip tray under the bell housing to catch rear-main oil
5) Inspect belts, cam belt, balance shaft belt, alternator, air con, water pump, belts - ensure everything is okay
6) Remove loose bolt from bottom of air con compressor
7) Unplug air con compressor control wire - just in case it's not the right wire!
8) Figure out which LSD to connect the PWM idle valve to
9) Solder the PWM idle valve wire to the correct connector pin
10) Cut, drill, and fit, 9mm alloy spacers for the sway bar mounts
11) Buy and add a bottle of nulon lifter cleaner in the hope that it may help
12) Lift cylinder 1 coil out and intercept it with a short lead
13) Start car and dial in timing precisely using light and EMStudio
14) Let the car warm up fully and ensure the temperature gauge looks reasonable
15) While it's warming up, fill the power steering with ATF and top up the trans, too
16) Take it for a drive and put some air in the tyres, visit some people, pick up some stuff
17) Dial in the dwell in a pragmatic way
18) Migrate configuration to own ID away from SLATER fill-in

Tuesday: Drive it to work! :-D

[Fred]

Weather is pretty bad, raining, blowing, cyclone "Hola!" is passing nearby, but going to miss us, just pissing with rain today. So I may not spend much/any time outside getting drenched for little gain. We'll see. If I can nose it into the garage with the bonnet up, it might be worth while. Depends on the wind. So:

Today for sure:

0) Correct dwell curve to suit coils - 2-3ms from high to low V for a start
2) Take 10 degrees timing out of the offset value and ensure the timing table in use is reasonable
3) Add 10 to 20% VE to the cranking/starting rows/columns, up from 60% flat
8) Figure out which LSD to connect the PWM idle valve to
10) Cut, drill, and fit, 9mm alloy spacers for the sway bar mounts
18) Migrate configuration to own ID away from SLATER fill-in

Today maybe:

1) Replace the alligator clip with some solder - required for LEDs and ignition functionality in my Jaguar.
9) Solder the PWM idle valve wire to the correct connector pin

Unlikely today:

4) Place a drip tray under the bell housing to catch rear-main oil
5) Inspect belts, cam belt, balance shaft belt, alternator, air con, water pump, belts - ensure everything is okay
6) Remove loose bolt from bottom of air con compressor
12) Lift cylinder 1 coil out and intercept it with a short lead
13) Start car and dial in timing precisely using light and EMStudio
14) Let the car warm up fully and ensure the temperature gauge looks reasonable
15) While it's warming up, fill the power steering with ATF and top up the trans, too
16) Take it for a drive and put some air in the tyres, visit some people, pick up some stuff
17) Dial in the dwell in a pragmatic way

Too late, shops closed:

11) Buy and add a bottle of nulon lifter cleaner in the hope that it may help
11b) NEW: Buy and add a bottle of seal conditioner stop leak for the rear main, one of:

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product ... SPO2986651
http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product ... 428mL/1727
http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product ... eak/425013
http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product ... 5mL/340597

Probably not required:

7) Unplug air con compressor control wire - just in case it's not the right wire! [WHY: whining sound was almost certainly the dry power steer pump]

Will post later this evening with what really got done!

[Fred]

Only cut the alloy blocks out, not even to the right length, and not even square. Nothing inside. Had to go to the supermarket and cook and eat and that was about me! So basically achieved nothing. Photo for contradiction:

[Fred]

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=2846&p=44214#p44214
Updates from the list:

0) Correct dwell curve to suit coils - 2-3ms from high to low V for a start
1) Replace the alligator clip with some solder - required for LEDs and ignition functionality in my Jaguar.
2) Take 10 degrees timing out of the offset value and ensure the timing table in use is reasonable
3) Add 10 to 20% VE to the cranking/starting rows/columns, up from 60% flat
4) Place a drip tray under the bell housing to catch rear-main oil
5) Inspect belts, cam belt, balance shaft belt, alternator, air con, water pump, belts - ensure everything is okay
6) Remove loose bolt from bottom of air con compressor
7) Unplug air con compressor control wire - just in case it's not the right wire! < Not required, I don't think.
8) Figure out which LSD to connect the PWM idle valve to < Pending investigation of valve behaviour
9) Solder the PWM idle valve wire to the correct connector pin < Pending investigation of valve behaviour
10) Cut, drill, and fit, 9mm alloy spacers for the sway bar mounts
11) Buy and add a bottle of nulon lifter cleaner in the hope that it may help < Will definitely do this soon
12) Lift cylinder 1 coil out and intercept it with a short lead
13) Start car and dial in timing precisely using light and EMStudio
14) Let the car warm up fully and ensure the temperature gauge looks reasonable
15) While it's warming up, fill the power steering with ATF and top up the trans, too
16) Take it for a drive and put some air in the tyres, visit some people, pick up some stuff
17) Dial in the dwell in a pragmatic way < not urgent, but should get around to it soon
18) Migrate configuration to own ID away from SLATER fill-in < ditto, soon, but not critical

Tuesday Wednesday: Drive it to work! :-D

Seal conditioner not required - it stopped leaking after just 48 hours soaked in fresh clean low quality diesel engine oil.

Running okay and driving okay. Success!

Needs:

Air filter and/or piping to reduce noise and eliminate engine wear/destruction from ingested junk.

May have killed one coil earlier, need to test it and go and pull the two others from the vehicle I got it from as they're quite rare.

Ideally I should make some mounts for the coil and tidy up the loom.

I definitely need to sort the two minor rust spots out before the weekend!

Hooray! Back into landlord compliance, daily driving this and with only the Suzuki in the driveway! :-D

Next up, fix diff in 740 sedan (before mid april) and fix flywheel indexing in 360 hatch (before filling it up with 91 RON, currently near empty).

[Fred]

Special thanks to:

Mike for much help sorting it all out
Ben for towing help bringing it home
Rob for fuel pump wiring help
Me for everything else :-D

[Fred]

Short list for tonight/tomorrow night:

1) Rust firewall - prior "fix" partly failed, redo, black paint, the end, until next 6 month WOF
2) Rust roof gutter - hmmm, tricky, but doesn't have to be perfect, just obscured
3) Fix/work around headlight clips broken and beam facing up
4) COP loom tidy up - 15 minutes work, or so
5) Tighten front wheel bearings up - should be easy
6) Intake from 740 GLE installed - need to find caravan one IF I have it
7) Mount the COPs - bunnings for some flat bar?

Rust should come first as multiple layers of material need to dry before the next goes on.

[Fred]

Nailed most of it with a bit of help from good old Rob:

1) Rust firewall - prior "fix" partly failed, redo, black paint, the end, until next 6 month WOF
2) Rust roof gutter - hmmm, tricky, but doesn't have to be perfect, just obscured
3) Fix/work around headlight clips broken and beam facing up
4) COP loom tidy up - 15 minutes work, or so
5) Tighten front wheel bearings up - should be easy
6) Intake from 740 GLE installed - need to find caravan one IF I have it
7) Mount the COPs - bunnings for some flat bar?

So tomorrow night:

Black paint over both epoxy repairs
Tighten both front wheel bearings
Mount the COPs maybe
Reinstall the under engine tray

Saturday morning:

Profit XOR Cry.

740/940 GLE intake pipe doesn't really fit with the 240 strut tower. It's squeezed in there, interference fit style, deformed. I'll put it back on the 740 on Saturday morning post WOF, probably. Then air up the two flat tyres on the 740 and bring it in for a fresh diff.

[Fred]

Did the paint and wheel bearings, skipped the COP mounting and tray installation. Maybe today, but:

I HAVE A NEW WOF! :-D

Priorities for this car at this point, off the top of my head:

0) Get the brake lights working, some wiring issue, bulbs might be okay
1) Get the last 2 coils from the Toyota 6 that I got the first 4 from
1.5) Get the diff oil changed for the real deal 80w140 PAO Ester Penrite
2) Get 4th gear/OD working
2.5) Verify that the ATF leak didn't take the level too far down on the stick
3) Get the idle valve working and connected to something that can drive it
4) Get a wideband on it
5) Get a rough tune on it
6) Figure out the rough running at 4k+ issue
7) Find some spare/new/different/non-crumbly door lock covers
8) Check the coil that seemed to die, mount the coils, and dial in the dwell

Order is approximate. Some of those will be today, others tomorrow, and others later, as I need to sort the 740 sedan diff out, ASAP.

Yoga delivery duties pending, wife will be driving a 16v 240 sedan on FreeEMS to yoga :-D

[Fred]

Spent some time on the brake light situation:

1) Switch on pedal is a switch to ground on press type
2) Switch works fine
3) 12v to output side of switch when not braking
4) None of the lights work

If all bulbs were blown, or the wiring was open circuit, I wouldn't expect 12v to show there, but maybe there's another element to the circuit that I don't remember/know about?

Went to the yard and got the last two coils (and a mirror for the Lantis).

No other work done, but my wife and I did put some decent miles on it using it to visit my father and drop some tools off to a mate, and do the weekly supermarket run. Back at work today in it, daily driving. Speaking of which, I should update that thread.