280z Turbocharged MS2 v3.0

[longhorn262]

I bought this 76' 280z about 3 years ago and it started out with triple webers 40DCOE's. I have since rebuilt the motor and made a few upgrades. My end goal is about 350 whp in a car that weighs about 2700 pounds.

Here is the list of mods:

2.8L inline 6
1mm overbored stock dished cast pistons
Stock bottom end w/ ARP Head Studs
7.4:1 compression
57 trim T4/T3 hybrid with stock internal wastegate
1g DSM BOV
3 inch downpipe (no exhaust yet )
440cc low impedance Supra injectors
255lph Walbro pump
60mm throttle body
225/50r15 Falkens
Lowered about 1-2 inches w/ tokico

Currently running about 10lbs non-intercooled and seeing 140-160 degree intake temps. Feels pretty good just need to work out some noise bugs from the v3.0 board and of course an intercooler (may get a meth injection setup going before that though)

















Here is what she used to look like:

[Fred]

I love the car! :-)

A few thoughts:

Put a sock/filter on your DSM BOV, it's likely open at idle sucking in leaves and insects.

Intercoolers are always there, meth not so much, and if your ECU doesn't notice that, game over.

Is the second Z car in the background also yours??? :-)

Fred.

[masterkorp]

I am jealous, great car! Love earlier Z gen.

[longhorn262]

Thank you its been a lot of work but it is finally getting there.

Thanks for the filter idea I never really thought about that but I can hear it whistle at idle once it warms up. I agree an intercooler would probably be the smarter choice.

Yeah we just got the green z about 6 months ago its a 77' 280z and completely stock and although slow I plan on keeping it that way.

[Fred]

Wow, thanks for uploading those! :-)

Here's my sock(s) on viagra: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Edy5-1YW8sc

[longhorn262]

Haha Awesome!!!

When you first said sock I had this look on my face but now I understand.

BTW this is the first turbo vehicle I have ever driven and its just way too addicting.

Also don't know if anyone saw my custom $20 boost controller...real fancy stuff

[longhorn262]

Ok just a few questions...

1. I am going to get DIYAutotune's 8' DB37 Cable
I think this will be sufficient for my build...

2. Either run the Injectors off of resistor box with MS driving them
or use Jean's P&H board. (leaning towards resistor box)
Anyone know of a good car to pull a resistor box off of that drives 6 injectors?

3. DIYAutotune's Quadspark Ignition Module
will be driving a single coil but will be nice to have for when I eventually go to wasted spark

4. 4 bar MAP sensor with barometric correction
looking at getting this even though i would never go over the 2.5 bar MAP
is the barometric correction worth having?

5. DLP-TXRX Internal USB / Serial Adapter
I sometimes have connection dropouts due to the crappy USB to Serial converter
would this be a worthwhile mod to have?

Should I use one of the extra inputs on the DB37 to supply an extra power line to the board? Using resistors for the injectors I may see as much as 1.3 to 1.7 amps of current for each injector...

Any other mods I should consider when wiring this up?

[Fred]

1) OK, if you're feeling lazy and don't mind the QC issues.

2) A resistor box is less hassle, but lower performance. Bug me and I'll upload some OLD photos of the P&H that I did for the BFMR.

3a) This is just stupid, wasting money, and worse, feeding it to the devil incarnate via DIYFakeTune (see ms3 waterproof discussions).
3b) Go to any junk yard and get a proper high quality non-chinese OEM ignitor, best bet by far. SO many to choose from, too... and virtually free.

4) Baro is worth having if you live in Colorado or california and worthless if you live in kansas or nebraska. Where are you? You should use the lowest kPa sensor that handles your boost level. 440hp (inj limit) from a 2.8 litre sohc is maybe upwards of 21psi on a stock sensor, but getting that high may end up costing you cash in bad ways (melted pistons and/or tickets). You shouldn't feed the devil. Using a wild map sensor means less resolution and accuracy at lower values such as normal driving.

5) Beware of MS non-robust comms, connection issues can lead to corruption and dead engines. USB may or may not help. Are you trying to use an inverter? I have an idea if you're patient. I'd sit this one out and see if you can get things solid in other areas first.

6) Grounds, almost half of the DB37 is grounds. I recommend stuffing 4 to 6 wires in there for the purpose in parallel. The balance you can use as ground FEEDs to your sensors. They don't tell you this in their docs, but they fucking should. Who knew the devil was incompetent? :-)

Power wire, not a bad thing to have, but WAY less critical than ground. Doubling up on the single wire is a good thing TM. I did in my install years ago. Zero noise. Even using their shitty VR circuit.

Mods wise, I tend to just omit the unrequired bits of circuit (about half) and use external drivers, and leave the MS board as a sensor conditioning brain board. In this role, it does an OK job. Assuming a firmware variant with no weird bugs.

Fred.

[longhorn262]

1. Well I could always purchase for the wires and buy a connector with solder cups and do it myself but this used to be my daily driver and I am ready to get her back on the road more impatient than anything as patience is not my strong suite I would rather spend more time doing something twice sometimes just because haha... I am sure we have all been there.

2. Yes same as above.

3. Roger that!

4. I am in Texas but where I am driving daily the max elevation change is around 500 ft.

5. It is not in the MS box it is the stupid serial to usb converter that DIYAutotune supplies. Sometimes it will cut out and if I play with the serial to usb connection it will comeback online. Still will probably hold off as its pretty rare when this happens.

6. I know there are 15 some odd grounds on the DB37 but I am pretty sure that DIYAutotune only wires up 4 for grounding to the block. To me it seems like that alone causes noise issues in it self. Driving 12 amps for injectors another 6 for coil your already getting close to the 24 amp capacity of 4 20ga wires and that is without the consumption of the sensors and megasquirt.

Leaving the un-used bits of circuit is not going to hurt anything correct? I bought the board fully assembled since I did not have much time this school year to do any soldering.

Thanks again for your knowledge I am glad i found this site.

[Fred]

4) No need for baro, upgrade later if you get a thirst for boost.

5) Yeah, hold off, no big deal. Maybe tweak the pins in the DB9 to make better contact and/or screw it on when you are using it.

Right, unused bits of circuit do no harm and just get in the way of debugging hw issues if you have any. No big deal.

You're welcome! :-)

Do me a favour and take some nice shots of the BrickRPM board installed. I don't have any such shots for obvious reasons ;-)

Fred.