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I'm going to be getting some 36-1 wheels made up and was just wondering if anyone had any opinions or if there are any Aussies here that are interested in getting one?

The wheel is 6.75" in diameter, ~1.5mm thick mild steel to work with the Jaycar hall-effect sensor p/n: ZD1900, 5/16" center hole with 6 slots 5/16" wide radiating from the center.

Let me know if you want the dwg/dxf file.

Are you sure you want to go so thin on it?

Hall usually requires a magnet moving by to operate too. Just steel requires a VR sensor, usually. What is your plan there?

Fred.

The gap for the sensor is only 2.15mm, so I was going to allow 0.325mm clearance either side.
It's the same setup I currently have in my distributor. This hall-effect sensor has the magnet built in as well as a transistorised circuit. The circuit switches the signal between ground & open when a ferrous metal passes through the gap. It can sink up to 40mA.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD

The wheel will bolt up to the harmonic balancer and the sensor will mount on a bracket off of the block.

Fred wrote:Hall usually requires a magnet moving by to operate too. Just steel requires a VR sensor, usually.

I think you're confused.

Hall and VR both require ferrous metal, but that is all. Hall has a built in (powered) magnet, VR does not.

Right?

Kind of true. Typically alum alloy's won't stear static magnetic fields very much (the B part of the field that is). However, if you start moving the fields you can create the H part of the field, then any conductive materails will have an effect. If you use steal you get both worlds. Static and motion sensativity. I'd say for this reason it's best to use steel for magnet based sensor pickups. Both VR and hall.

From an automotive standpoint, the below is fairly accurate.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_reluctance_sensor

A bit more accurate for just the hall part of the sensors can be found here.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_sensor

Right, so it isn't *just* a hall sensor itself then. Gotcha.

The advantage of having the transistorised circuit built in is that your ECU is looking at either +5V or Gnd and this makes it less susceptable to noise.

Have made a few modifications to the dxf/dwg after measuring my own balancer.

Rotating assembly for my new engine arrived today

I eventually finalised my design. Got these back yesterday.



I made them 5mm thick. That way I can either use a hall-effect gear tooth sensor or a VR sensor.
Will be ordering the bits soon to build the output circuits.

I got a 7" wheel made for small block chevs (and possibly a valiant slant six) and a slightly smaller wheel to suit Holden straight sixes.

Finally got the 36-1 wheel mounted up. Next step is to make the hall-sensor/VR-sensor bracket using the two holes on the front of the block, currently being used by the alternator bracket.

I used a TIG to tack a large nut on the front but haven't tested it yet. Should be strong enough to turn the motor over if I take the plugs out first. Useful for adjusting timing or rocker lash.