Page 2 of 2
Re: Choosing a crank trigger/wheel
Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 6:59 am
by Fred
WTDeuce wrote:VR sensors are noise prone... Dont have to use shielded wire with Hall sensors.
I think you need to qualify that statement. Everything I know tells me otherwise :-|
Re: Choosing a crank trigger/wheel
Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 9:38 pm
by obi-lan
VW uses hall and VR sensors with same 60-2 triggerwheel in different engines. I chose Hall for easiness but don't know what are the VW's reasons when to pick Hall and when VR...
Re: Choosing a crank trigger/wheel
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 9:30 pm
by pishta
Some of the oem wheels i saw look like bike sprockets! Get yourself a 36 tooth and grind one down...i liked the square tooth with the tooth as wide as the sensor face. On a US Ford it was. 250 inch so that is what my cnc teeth will be cut at along with a much shallower missing tooth region per Fred's recommendation for magnetic flux retention.
Re: Choosing a crank trigger/wheel
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:56 am
by pishta
Re: Choosing a crank trigger/wheel
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 12:32 pm
by Fred
Looks nice! Is it missing tooth? If so, can we see that bit?
As for the rubber, let me show you a picture:
This was one of my OEM pulleys. It hadn't moved in 15+ years... but it was moving while I was trying to set my timing and it cost me time. I wanted to make sure it wouldn't fuck me again ;-)
Now, setting timing is one thing, you're there, it's off, and you're measuring, etc. But for your signal, you're driving, and a significant timing change could be a big issue for your wallet.
Finally, the rubber in between is there to allow it to vibrate and move. That's not what you want for a timing reference on your crank shaft. It likely won't move much, but it will move a little.
My 2c. Use it and see how you get on :-)
Fred.
Re: Choosing a crank trigger/wheel
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:19 pm
by pishta
Yeah, its not the best option, but its what Im going to attempt. The missing tooth is TBD. I have to mount it and find where the tooth will sit , then Ill grind it down {against all you told me ;-(} so as to not trip the VR sensor. If it gets crazy unstable, ill burn out the rubber, and mount the ring rigidly to the hub behind another balancer. I got a few. What if I just make it rigid as it sits, ie. tack weld the ring over the rubber to the hub? Slant six is butter smooth anyway, I doubt Im going to break a crank with harmonics at 3500 RPM and 200 hp......Im not going to spin it faster than 5500. We'll see. I just didnt like the way the off the shelf wheels stuck out as I have limited space up there.
Re: Choosing a crank trigger/wheel
Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:32 pm
by Fred
All fair, just wanted to make you more aware, that's all.