View unanswered posts | View active topics It is currently Fri Aug 23, 2019 4:10 pm



Reply to topic  [ 34 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4
Mobile vice and small anvil / welding table 
Author Message
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm
Posts: 15319
Location: Home sweet home!
I have just tonight realised that to correctly do the drill/tap operation on each of these slugs I need a V block to hold it square in both axes in the vice.

May try to in-press grind the top of them flat, though. But not tonight. Should probably do that with a V block, too, but meh, can redo if I make it worse.

Currently both blocks have one bad end off by a few degrees and one okay end that is domed from my attempt to square it by rotating it against the cut off wheel in the chop saw.

So all they really need is a light touch in the middle to bring that down and leave the outer edges as is, flat relative to each other.

_________________
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Wed Aug 07, 2019 11:34 am
Profile WWW
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm
Posts: 15319
Location: Home sweet home!
Discovered these things yesterday evening, too: https://twitter.com/FredCookeNZ/status/ ... 5379666944

Image

Image

Image






Link: https://www.rockler.com/rockler-workben ... kit-4-pack

Also, DIY surface grinder is excellent, but dangerous in current form. Need to upgrade the setup for a better grip in the chuck, or maybe a MT4 arse end. However I ground the ends of those slugs flat and square no worries :-D More later.

_________________
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:16 am
Profile WWW
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm
Posts: 15319
Location: Home sweet home!
Chuck accepts > 45mm of M14 before it runs out of depth and there's only a mere 15mm hanging out past the nut on the current setup. So += 30mm if the nut is the same thickness means 80mm thread, thread all the way to the end - they may not make these? We'll see when I get to the bolt shop and ask the man. The thread is actually 5/8"-11 TPI UNC, not M14, that just happens to fit super dodgy.

With one slug tapped I can also say that I want the top fastener to be at least 65mm thread below the head, and the lower one that + 5-10, more the merrier and both can have up to say 15mm of non-thread if required, unlike the dodgy surface grinding setup above.

And I need a replacement 50mm long M14 cap screw to replace the one I've chowdered using it with too little hanging out in a dodgy china chuck.

So that's at least 4 bolts in 3 sizes, some washers, and one nut to buy:

cap screws unless nut/washer:

2 x M14x2 @ 50
1 x M14x2 @ 65+, 60 and 70 are options, can accept up to 18mm of non-thread shoulder absolute max, may require re drill to 15 or 16, no big deal.
1 x M14x2 @ 70, 75, 80, or 90 with up to 19mm of non-thread shoulder absolute max, ditto re redrilling
4 x hardened washers to suit
1 x 5/8-11 UNC @ about 80mm shank, but all thread, the most I can get with all thread, consider tapping to get full depth
2 x 5/8-11 UNC nuts each of several types, cut down to get more thread in chuck if need be depending on above

_________________
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Thu Aug 08, 2019 8:35 am
Profile WWW
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:31 pm
Posts: 15319
Location: Home sweet home!
Measured up the tension rod vs main tube sizes, and:

46 + 11 + extension + clearance - cut off = distance from end of tube.

Extension on the end I already pressed is a taper from 4-5mm and back again due to non-square cut in the tension rod tube. I'd probably go 5-6 on the other end for a bit more clearance while welding.

Clearance from washer to face should be big enough to not contact and small enough to not mean a longer/more expensive cap screw than necessary. 5mm ought to be enough for that.

So 57 + 10 is 67 with nothing cut off the tube. And given an ID of 128.2 that's still weldable. Plus plug welds. Maybe reduce the tube by 3mm to make it a 1:2 proposition? Otherwise leave it alone and get stuck in.

_________________
DIYEFI.org - where Open Source means Open Source, and Free means Freedom
FreeEMS.org - the open source engine management system
FreeEMS dev diary and its comments thread and my turbo truck!
n00bs, do NOT PM or email tech questions! Use the forum!
The ever growing list of FreeEMS success stories!


Sun Aug 11, 2019 11:38 am
Profile WWW
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Reply to topic   [ 34 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
Designed by ST Software for PTF. ColorizeIt.